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Old 01-20-2011, 11:51 AM
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What type of paint sticks to sanded, pre-existing paint?

I don't want to use primer. What kind of automotive paint should I use that will stick to an already painted (and sanded with 400 grit) car? How many coats will it take?
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:31 PM
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are you just trying to get colour on or are you looking for pretty?

'Cause the latter ain't happenin this way.

Otherwise if it's just a lick of paint you want use Hamerite or Rustoleum or equivelant paint. That'l stick for a while.
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:38 PM
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Do you know what its currently painted with? Also :how many coats" depends on a lot of things. Brand of paint, color changing, brand of paint, how nice you want it.
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ81
are you just trying to get colour on or are you looking for pretty?

'Cause the latter ain't happenin this way.

Otherwise if it's just a lick of paint you want use Hamerite or Rustoleum or equivelant paint. That'l stick for a while.
All the paint needs to do is last like 2 years, and not have an extreme orange peel effect. Or even if it does you know what? Who really cares. The state of my car's paint job right now is absolutely as pitiful as it can possibly be.
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangejuiced86
Do you know what its currently painted with? Also :how many coats" depends on a lot of things. Brand of paint, color changing, brand of paint, how nice you want it.
It's painted with the original factory paint, which is 20 years old now. And it looks like the thing's been parked out in the sun every day since then. The entire hood, roof and trunk doesn't have any clear coat left on (well there's some but the last of it is flaking off really quickly). The paint under the clearcoat looks really splotchy and uneven and faded.

I just need a really cheap paint job. Maaco charged my friend $1000 after taxes and everything, saying that the $300 paint job was impossible to do for some reason, and his car had the exact same things wrong with it as my car.

If I could do the prep body work and sanding myself, and then roll on some type of automotive paint that would be awesome. It really only needs to last a couple years, which is how long I usually keep my cars anyways before I get bored of them and move on to something else. In the mean time I don't want people to immediately know how dirt-poor I am
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:29 AM
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No such thing as as good looking cheap paintjob it either takes a lot of time and patience or cash. Prep work is where the battle is won or lost. You'll alwAys have orange peel even if Macon paint it for you.

A lot of good articles can be found by using Google on how to roll your car with ok results.

In the meantime who gives a sht if other people think you're broke. Maybe you're just cheap or thrifty. Seriously if that's your motivation don't bother!
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:43 AM
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Somebody is lying concerning Maaco. Either your friend got suckered or your friend isn't telling the truth. $1000 is for their base coat clear coat paint job. There single stage jobs are cheaper. There are 3 in Kansas City and they ALL use urethane for there single stage paint jobs. Prep the car yourself, take your car in there and tell them you want the cheapest job. Plain and simple. I know for a fact they try and sell there sanding job for $100. Skip that because, guess what, they sand ALL cars! They will try and sell you sealer, which don't buy, because all three of these shops put sealer on ALL of there cars anyway whether you pay for it or not. That part is a scam too. Maaco charges car dealers $250 for paint jobs, so if you have a friend that sells cars you can use him to save even more. They have 4 packages. Enamel (which like I said, the three here all use urethane, so the first two packaqges are the same) urethane, urethane with clear coat added and bc/cc.
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Old 01-21-2011, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockworthy
I don't want to use primer. What kind of automotive paint should I use that will stick to an already painted (and sanded with 400 grit) car? How many coats will it take?
All automotive paints will stick to a sanded surface, so the answer to
your question is yes.
As others have posted, preparing the car and taking to MAACO is a
good alternative.
If you still want to paint cheap, do the prep, buy a couple quarts of
automotive paint and do a roll-and-tip procedure. Search the marine/boat
forums for this technique, and read up....

Another tip: Carry around a big roll of $1 bills with a twenty on top,
and flash that when paying at the register.
This helps with the 'high-roller' look.

Last edited by Runnin'OnEmpty; 01-21-2011 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underground
Somebody is lying concerning Maaco. Either your friend got suckered or your friend isn't telling the truth. $1000 is for their base coat clear coat paint job. There single stage jobs are cheaper. There are 3 in Kansas City and they ALL use urethane for there single stage paint jobs. Prep the car yourself, take your car in there and tell them you want the cheapest job. Plain and simple. I know for a fact they try and sell there sanding job for $100. Skip that because, guess what, they sand ALL cars! They will try and sell you sealer, which don't buy, because all three of these shops put sealer on ALL of there cars anyway whether you pay for it or not. That part is a scam too. Maaco charges car dealers $250 for paint jobs, so if you have a friend that sells cars you can use him to save even more. They have 4 packages. Enamel (which like I said, the three here all use urethane, so the first two packaqges are the same) urethane, urethane with clear coat added and bc/cc.
Hmm that is very good information. I was with my friend that day when we went to Maaco to get his car painted. The dude behind the counter said that the paint job he was getting was a 1-stage paint job, where the clear coat was mixed in with the paint, is how he described it. I don't know much about paintjobs. The way the guy made it sound he pretty much told us that it isn't possible to get a cheaper paint job. Sounds like he was a god damned liar. If I got a $199 deal on the cheapest Maaco paint job, (doing my own prep work before hand too), it DOES come with clear mixed in right? I mean the paint isn't just going to look flat with no shinyness at all right? I'm such a noob I don't know! This "clear coat" everyone talks about makes it seem like that, without clear coat, the paint won't even be shiny at all.

Oh and one more quick question: after I sand the sucker, is it a good idea to spray the car off with water and let it dry, so that I wash off all the powdery, old paint particles? Or is just hitting it with a dry rag real quick to get that dust off what people normally do?
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underground
Somebody is lying concerning Maaco. Either your friend got suckered or your friend isn't telling the truth. $1000 is for their base coat clear coat paint job. There single stage jobs are cheaper. There are 3 in Kansas City and they ALL use urethane for there single stage paint jobs. Prep the car yourself, take your car in there and tell them you want the cheapest job. Plain and simple. I know for a fact they try and sell there sanding job for $100. Skip that because, guess what, they sand ALL cars! They will try and sell you sealer, which don't buy, because all three of these shops put sealer on ALL of there cars anyway whether you pay for it or not. That part is a scam too. Maaco charges car dealers $250 for paint jobs, so if you have a friend that sells cars you can use him to save even more. They have 4 packages. Enamel (which like I said, the three here all use urethane, so the first two packaqges are the same) urethane, urethane with clear coat added and bc/cc.
i'm sure the reason the maaco paint job cost so much was because the car had the same problem his does
the original paint/clear is falling off so they had to sand/strip it all off
so most of that $1000.oo was labor
as you have been told and have been asking about,you do the prep work and just have maaco shoot their $199.00 paint on to your prep work

or better yet, just go down to the dollar store and get some rollers and get it over with


this is like arguing about HF tools
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
i'm sure the reason the maaco paint job cost so much was because the car had the same problem his does
the original paint/clear is falling off so they had to sand/strip it all off
so most of that $1000.oo was labor
:
NO. One of the shops here in KC is an aquaintence of mine. They charge a set price to sand ($100). Did your friend have any bodywork done? Was it a truck? They charge more for trucks and for 2-tones. Now as far as the single stage with clear being the the cheapest, it's not. You should have seen 4 signs on the wall that showed there "packages" The signs has the prices on them. The one they showed you guys was the second from the best they do.(bc/cc was the next one. You have to remember they are like car salesmen.
Single stage paint is shiny(unless you buy flat). When they add clear into it it does make a huge difference on shininess, but it isn't needed. Base coat is dull until you apply the clear.(you HAVE to clear)
They only do the $199 paint jobs a couple of times a year, so you will just have to catch them at the right time. Otherwise I think they are normally $299 for the cheapest. LikeI said, the three Maacos here in KC all shoot Nason SS urethane on the first 3 packages. And the first and second packages are exactly the same thing(except price). The third package adds clear into the ss.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockworthy
I just need a really cheap paint job. Maaco charged my friend $1000 after taxes and everything, saying that the $300 paint job was impossible to do for some reason, and his car had the exact same things wrong with it as my car.
They LIED to you about this!
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:54 PM
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It was impossible for them to do the 300 dollar job when they could talk him into the 1000 dollar job.

I am going to go with either the roller job or rattle can my 68 caddy. I am roughly 47 or 48 pages into the mopar parts board discussion on roller painting. Just screwing around I sprayed part of a panel with some flat black our of a can to see if I could spray it and I think with more prep work it will work out ok. Have not tried the roller method, but it is ideal for just a quick cheap job if you have the time to work it right. I may just rattle can my caddy to get it on the road.
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underground
NO. One of the shops here in KC is an aquaintence of mine. They charge a set price to sand ($100). Did your friend have any bodywork done? Was it a truck? They charge more for trucks and for 2-tones. Now as far as the single stage with clear being the the cheapest, it's not. You should have seen 4 signs on the wall that showed there "packages" The signs has the prices on them. The one they showed you guys was the second from the best they do.(bc/cc was the next one. You have to remember they are like car salesmen.
Single stage paint is shiny(unless you buy flat). When they add clear into it it does make a huge difference on shininess, but it isn't needed. Base coat is dull until you apply the clear.(you HAVE to clear)
They only do the $199 paint jobs a couple of times a year, so you will just have to catch them at the right time. Otherwise I think they are normally $299 for the cheapest. LikeI said, the three Maacos here in KC all shoot Nason SS urethane on the first 3 packages. And the first and second packages are exactly the same thing(except price). The third package adds clear into the ss.
So let me get this right: On the $299 job, it's a single stage job with clear coat mixed in, so it's still pretty shiny, but just not AS shiny as the more expensive jobs that come with clear coat put on after the paint?
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentpoet
It was impossible for them to do the 300 dollar job when they could talk him into the 1000 dollar job.

I am going to go with either the roller job or rattle can my 68 caddy. I am roughly 47 or 48 pages into the mopar parts board discussion on roller painting. Just screwing around I sprayed part of a panel with some flat black our of a can to see if I could spray it and I think with more prep work it will work out ok. Have not tried the roller method, but it is ideal for just a quick cheap job if you have the time to work it right. I may just rattle can my caddy to get it on the road.
Can you link the discussion on rolling paint that you mentioned?
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