[red65mustang]

The first reason I always remove "e-coat" is THE COATING WAS APPLIED TO TOALLY SLICK SMOOTH STEEL. It is just a skin on the metal and has "0" impact resistance for stones, parking lot dings, etc. Any coating on steel has to have some "scratch" to hold well.

The second reason to remove it (definitely on repo-taiwan mustang parts) is at best, it is probably crappy cheap e-coat and possibly "transport coat" .

My test is is to use Jasper premium epoxy paint stripper ($8qt. Lowes, great stuff, goes dry, no mess, on most finishes*).

Hood and P fender: Jasper literally popped the "e-coat" off in sheets, cleaned up with my shop vac = ? transport primer.

D fender: Jasper just layed there wet*, no reaction, BUT it wiped off very easy to the smooth steel with steel wool = ? good e-coat.

Quarters, valance, etc., based on the above results, sanded to bare steel with 80 grit for epoxy

IF the Jasper stays wet AND it is an area that gets "0" abuse (inside quarters, back of valance?) then leave it maybe......

Last note: your new hood is going to rust from the inside out along the front inner lip due to heat/moisture/transport primer.

Stand it on its nose and pour and spray epoxy/por15/rustoleum/whatever till all the support and panel joint is totally coated

"et caveat emptor" = "and the buyer beware "

Steve

[red65mustang]

CORRECTION on my post: it's JASCO Premium paint stripper, not Jasper...... guess I really am a motor head...."Jasper engines"

Steve