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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2009, 04:55 AM
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I donīt know what the market is like in the USA, but I would recommend you an "Adler" or a "Pfaff". My granddad bought the the first Adler back in the 50s and it is still used in our company every day and it works just fine. Parts are readyly available and those machines keep their value pretty good.

Sure modern machines offer some benefits, like alternating transport, clutch-less step motors, air-pressure operated thread cutter and foot lift and so on... all stuff you wonīt really need.

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Old 07-29-2009, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Microsoft Paint
Hey Dan do you think a Kenmore Zig Zag machine would be able to handle light interior stuff like door panels or stretching it a bit.... seats.
A home machine can handle a lot. They have the strength to sew through many layers of fabric. What they don't have is enough lift height to get as much under the foot as car seats require. They are also probably not going to have a compound feed system. If you're only sewing a few layers of fabric together, it will work fine. If you're trying to sew two layers of sew foam and fabric together, you will be disappointed.
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UngerMarkus
I donīt know what the market is like in the USA, but I would recommend you an "Adler" or a "Pfaff". My granddad bought the the first Adler back in the 50s and it is still used in our company every day and it works just fine. Parts are readyly available and those machines keep their value pretty good.

Sure modern machines offer some benefits, like alternating transport, clutch-less step motors, air-pressure operated thread cutter and foot lift and so on... all stuff you wonīt really need.
Pfaff is a well known brand in the US, Adler not as well known. Adler is the best sewing machine on the planet as far as I'm concerned, and Pfaff is a close second. Adler industrial machines have 1/2" shafts throughout where other machines only use 3/8" shafts. The problem is that they are expensive to start with and hold their value, so getting a bargain on a used machine is hard to do. If you can find a good deal on either one, jump at it.
Changing out a clutch motor for a servo motor is an absolute no brainer. The servos make operating a sewing machine much easier, so you spend less time learning to control the machine and more time learning to sew.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:21 AM
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Thanks Dan really appreciate the help. Ill post some pics on here so you guys can see and tell us what ya think,,Thanks again.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:13 PM
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Dan,

I hope to pick up my Consew 226 tomorrow. Do you know if the feet are the same as the Consew 206 and the Singers?

Thanks
Doug
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:41 PM
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Yes, it does. There are dozens of different industrial machines that use the same feet. Here is a cut and paste from a page in the online catalog of Cut Sew Services web site:



This is a BRAND NEW Highest Quality Set of 2 WELTING FEET with 1/4" Grooves for BROTHER / CONSEW / JUKI / SINGER Style Walking Foot Machines.

There is an inside and outside foot. The outside foot has the corner cut off for Welting around corners. Both feet have a 1/4" GROOVE cut into their bottoms to accommodate the 5/32" Welting.

This Welt Foot Set is commonly used to first make the welting by wrapping a 3/4" to 1" wide strip of fabric or vinyl or leather around 5/32" Diameter WELT. Then this welting is inserted between two pieces of furniture or auto upholstery fabric to make the actual welted seam.

Look closely at the photo and see the bottom corner of the outside foot is CUT OUT. This allows the operator to make Sharp or even 90 Degree Right Angle Turns such as in pillows or other sharp turns in auto upholstery. So if you have had trouble turning corners while welting, this is the Welt Foot Set for you.

This Welt Foot Set is available in these LISTED SIZES (GROOVE SIZE)

1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 1/2"

Please note that the LISTED SIZE refers to the actual size of the GROOVE cut into the feet and is 3/32" LARGER than the WELT SIZE.

LISTED (GROOVE) SIZE USES WELTING SIZE

1/8" 1/32"
5/32 1/16"
3/16" 3/32"
1/4" 5/32"
5/16" 7/32"
3/8" 9/32"
1/2" 13/32"

This sizing chart is for REGULAR WEIGHT Upholstery Fabrics. Very Light or Very Heavy Fabics will require DIFFERENT sizing decisions.

This foot set will fit all CONSEW 206RB/225/226R // JUKI 562/563/1508 // SINGER 111W/211W STYLE machines:

ARTISAN: 618-1 4400RB

BROTHER: B837

CONSEW: 206RB 225 226R 244 255 277

JUKI: DNU-241 DNU-1541 DSC-244 DSC-245 DSC-246 LS-341 LU-562 LU-563 LU-1114 LU-1508 LU-1510 LU-1560

MERCURY: M-280L M-280LS

MITSUBISHI: DU-100 DU-105 LU2-400 LU2-401

NAKAJIMA: 280L 280LY-B

SAILRITE: SR200 LONG ARM

SEIKO: LSW-8L STH-8BLD

SINGER: 111G 111W 211G 211W

SIRUBA: SBE-710 SBE-715 SBE-720 SBE-725

TACSEW: T111-155

This is the most common method of sewing welted seams in furniture or auto upholstery. This welt foot set will also sew regular seaming operations so you do not have to put your regular feet back onto the machine. Many upholstery shops just leave this set on their machines all the time!

The most common sizes of welting foot sets for auto upholstery & furniture welting are 3/16" 1/4" and 5/16". To determine your correct LISTED SIZE, add 3/32" for your four plies of fabric to the WELT SIZE. So if you are using 5/32" welting add 3/32" for a total of 8/32" or 1/4".

If you would like to see ALL Walking Foot Sets available for these machines enter:

111W FOOT

Into the SEARCH field
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Old 08-01-2009, 07:51 AM
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might go look at a consew 226 for 200 bucks. Can anybody give me any heads up on what to look for on this machine? IE parts that wear out and are expensive to replace
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:35 AM
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The Consew 226 is a workhorse. My machine is over 30 years old, and I have spent about $300 to have it repaired over that time. Parts and attachments are readily available on line: CLICK HERE If you can, find out what it was used for. If it was used in a sewing plant, it will have more wear than if it was used in an upholstery shop. If you buy it, before you do anything else, take it to a sewing machine repair shop and have it checked out, timed, and the tensions set up. Don't just run it and take a chance of something being broken or worn and making it worse. If it comes with thread, throw it away and buy new, unless they can tell you how old the thread is. Can you see the oily wicks at the end of the pieces behind the end cover? Make sure you oil the machine regularly and especially the places behind the cover. If you keep it oiled, it will serve you well forever.
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Old 08-02-2009, 11:42 PM
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The guy that is selling it told me that it is missing some parts, I am going to find out what parts. I may pass but I am not sure yet. Ive been using my Old Kenmore for a few years and another day or two wont hurt. Is there a good availibilty on parts for that machine?
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:08 AM
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Yes, there are plenty of parts available and plenty of places to fix it.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:55 AM
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gonna go take a look this morning an try to find out what is missing. What would be the approximate value of that machine in good running condition? Anything I should look for on that machine that makes it a throw away? Thanx in advance for everyones help
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:57 AM
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Also is there any dash # such s 226r that is more desirable or is the 226 in general a good machine?
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:32 AM
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Go back and read post #23. The 226 is a great machine. I sew on one almost every day and it works great. As far as I know, the 226 always has reverse. The newer ones would say 226R2, but you aren't going to find a newer machine for $200. For $200, it might not have a table or a motor. A good machine from a reputable dealer in great shape would go for $700 to $900 including a motor and table. The only way to know if the machine is a pig in a poke is to take it to a sewing machine mechanic and have it checked out. They have test stands, so even if there is no motor or table, he will be able to hook it up and sew with it. I sure wouldn't buy it unless I had a pro check it out first.
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:25 AM
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went ahead and picked up the machine head, table and motor for 200 bucks. Took it to a shop and they gave it a tune up, replaced the tensioner and replace a foot and said the machine is working great, they charged me 143, total investment is 343. Feel I got a great deal. Thanks very much Dan for your time in responding to my questions. Without your help I would not have had a clue. now i get to learn a new machine. What kind of limitations does this machine have?
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:03 AM
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You got a fabulous deal. Now spend another $150.00 and put a servo motor on it. The servo will let you learn how to sew without having to worry about being able to slip the clutch motor to control the machine speed.

What did they replace, the upper thread tension on the front of the machine? That's a smart thing to do. Another smart thing to do is to replace the bobbin case, that's where the lower thread tension is adjusted.

The only limitation your machine has, (or any sewing machine has for that matter) is how much thickness will go under the foot (called lift height) and still sew correctly. Your machine will sew through 1/4" plywood easily. The maximum lift height for the 226 is 1/2", just make sure the machine is adjusted for it's maximum. Here's a link for an instruction manual you can print out: CLICK HERE
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Last edited by DanTwoLakes; 08-06-2009 at 07:09 AM.
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