What upgrades do you need to run a solid cam? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 03-27-2004, 01:57 AM
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What upgrades do you need to run a solid cam?

other than valvesprings, and the cam and lifters of course

would there be anything?

i'm thinking of running a Comp 270S cam in my 351W (it's a 74) and was wondering what i might need as other costs other than the kit, i'll need to have adjustable valvetrain, but wondering if a new set of rockers (comps magnum series) would make it adjustable (stock are positive stop deals). Anyone know if i'd need screw in studs instead of the stock deals?

and i'm not talking about rear gears/trans mods or anything like that, just purely engine stuff

what might i see as a street difference compared to the 270H cam for low end?

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Last edited by Dubz; 03-27-2004 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 03-27-2004, 07:03 AM
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Stay with the hydraulic cam.
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Old 03-27-2004, 08:45 AM
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Arrow

All Below Info Courtesy of -CRANE CAMS-

-Why Roller Hydraulic Cams Are Better-

-Adjusting The Valvetrain-

Quote:
Rocker Arm Conversion Kits

Needle Bearing Roller Fulcrum Conversion Kit

Crane Camsí drop-in needle bearing fulcrum conversion kit for Ford pedestal-mount rocker arms enables you to retrofit standard non-adjustable rockers with fully rollerized fulcrum assemblies. This eliminates the greatest source of friction in the rocker arm, resulting in less wasted horsepower, lower oil temperatures, greater strength and load carrying abilities, greater vacuum at a given RPM, and better fuel economy. This kit is intended for use with hydraulic lifter and hydraulic roller camshaft applications only.

All hardware is included: New heat treated fulcrums; needle bearing assemblies and hardened hold-down bolts. Pedestal shim kit also included to enable you to optimize hydraulic lifter preload for best performance and reliability. No machining required.
Quote:
Die-Formed Steel Roller Tip

Roller tip helps to eliminate friction, and side loading of valve stem. Extra long slot accommodates increased valve lift. Highly accurate modern manufacturing techniques insure correct rocker ratio. Made from stronger alloy with improved heat treat. Most economically priced roller tip rocker on the market.

Still relies on a ball fulcrum which creates high friction.


You will can gain more streetable HP cheaper with a roller cam and cheap roller rockers, and with your present fulcrum system don't have the worry of an adjustible valvetrain. Just set it up at assembly and drive it. . Just look at what FORD did with the 5.0L HO to obtain reliable street HP..
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Old 03-27-2004, 09:37 AM
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I have yet to see a hyrauldic roller cam engine that can honestly say the cam and lifter swap alone made more then about 10 extra hp over a hydraulic flat tappet when both cams are of the proper specs.As for the solid swap,the only thing you need to do on your engine is have some way to adjust the valve lash.With the cam you have chosen,new of very good stock springs would work,but the cam manufacurer's springs wont hurt.You dont need roller rockers either.In mild setups like yours they is little to no power to be gained with roller rockers,but roller rockers have much more stuff to break and leave trash in your engine.If you can shim the stock arrangment to get the valve lash you need you will get tens of thousands of trouble free miles out of a good solid flat tappet cam.Good luck.
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Old 03-27-2004, 10:11 AM
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As for the solid swap,the only thing you need to do on your engine is have some way to adjust the valve lash.With the cam you have chosen,new of very good stock springs would work,but the cam manufacurer's springs wont hurt.
Uh...

I was trying to save the boy a lot of trouble and money. With the present valvetrain he has, he is going to have to have the heads machined for screw-in studs just as a start. Then we go to adjustible rockers (cheap friction type at the least). As for his stock springs holding down a solid lifter cam?

What I gave him is a stepped increase in reliable street HP. Not the assembly of a grenade motor. He can take it one step at a time or just use an hydraulic flat tappet to start with. There is no reason for a solid camshaft for street duty with all the technology that has transpired in the last twenty or so years.

Wonder why FORD went to all of that expense in 1985 with a roller valvetrain?

Now...this is my opinion only. Your mileage may vary. So in the ensuing flaming post, please remember that children also read this page...
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Old 03-27-2004, 04:57 PM
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in order to use a comp cam and have it warranty-able you need to use thier recommended springs, so i don't care about the springs, cause i know they are getting swapped

i was just wondering what hinderances i would see on the street running a solid, as this is a street/strip car and a little more performance on the strip from the solid will make up for a little less performance on the street(if there is less street performance). And i thought for the $$ solid flat tappets couln't be beat for performance.

and KULTULZ, you know i'd need screw in studs, or can i shim the stock ones (comp also makes an adjustment kit for $30)
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Old 03-27-2004, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
...and KULTULZ, you know i'd need screw in studs, or can i shim the stock ones (comp also makes an adjustment kit for $30)
I think you will find that kit suitable only for adjusting rocker geometry on a mild hydraulic application. If you are dead set going to solids, the heads are going to have to come off to be machined for screw-in studs (non-postive stop) and guidplates, and you are going to have to basically use the rocker setup from an older 289/271 HI-PO.

Then you get to adjust them every Saturday morning...
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KULTULZ
I think you will find that kit suitable only for adjusting rocker geometry on a mild hydraulic application. If you are dead set going to solids, the heads are going to have to come off to be machined for screw-in studs (non-postive stop) and guidplates, and you are going to have to basically use the rocker setup from an older 289/271 HI-PO.

Then you get to adjust them every Saturday morning...
adjusting is the fun part of a solid tho

what do i need the guideplates for? (not a flame, i just don't know)
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Old 03-27-2004, 08:17 PM
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Don't let anyone scare you about having to adjust the solids all the time. I check mine in the spring, maybe adjust a few here and there a couple of times all summer, really no problem.
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Old 03-27-2004, 08:20 PM
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To keep the push rods (another expense-hardened) aligned with the rocker arms.

With a solid cam, you are employing a completely new system and have to make allowances for it.

No flame noticed...
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