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Old 08-02-2002, 10:24 AM
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Post What weight oil do you guys use?

I have a 350 with 2500 miles on it. I've been told to use 20-50 and I've been told to use 10-30, what do you guys use?

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Old 08-02-2002, 11:29 AM
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At 2500 your engine should be broken in and you should have changed the oil several times by now. Living in San Diego it probably never gets really hot or very cold so you don't need a really heavy oil like a 50 unless your engine runs hot. I drive a Corvair that is made to run at over 300 degrees and have been told by the Corvair gurus that a 5-30 will run cooler in the car. I have no idea why but that is what I am using and I don't have any over heating problems. It gets over 100+ degrees hear and I use 87 octane pump gas with no pinging in a high performance 140 motor. I am using 5-30 in all my cars because I buy it by the case and it works fine in all of them. I use 10-30 when I can't get 5-30. The highest I would go is 10-40. I was running 20-50 and 50 racing oil in the Corvair to try to silence some valves but it didn't help. I think it made things worse.

Now that it is broken in, it would be a good time to go to a synthetic oil. I have been told this by lots of people. I have never had a completely new engine so I have not used the synthetic. You should not switch from normal to synthetic in an old engine.
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Old 08-02-2002, 02:43 PM
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I use 10w-40 in my 350 thick enough for warm weather.Atleast thats my warped oppinion.20-50 seems a little to thick for cold startup.Again just me.
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Old 08-02-2002, 05:14 PM
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Most newer cars use lighter oils because their clearences are tighter. The lighter oil flows easier. I live in Jersey currently and use 10W30 in the 302 in my mustang year round. I maintain good pressure and she's not leaking anywhere. Sometimes I've switched to a thicker oil in some beat up clunkers I've driven to try and slow down the leaks. If I put 10W40 in my 302 the oil pressure really gets up there on cold start up so I stick with 10W30. She's a fresh motor so the clearences are pretty tight, the lighter oil flows better. On a new motor like yours you should have an oil pressure gauge, I'll bet the 10W30 maintains good pressure. I would stay away from the 20W50 unless I had low oil pressure (worn engine) or an old leaker. Just me.
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Old 08-03-2002, 08:04 AM
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I have to agree with dmorris here. The lighter oil will flow better. I've always used 10W30.

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Old 08-03-2002, 08:58 AM
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My 455 Olds now has 800 miles. It's hot as Hades in SC, so I am currently using 20-50. In the fall, I will go to a lighter oil for reasons stated by the others.
Mertz, you are something else. From Sharknose to Corvair. If I was PC, I'd have to say you are diversified!
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Old 08-03-2002, 10:03 AM
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I've changed the oil many times and am now using 10-40 synthetic. I'll probably go to 10-30 when it cools off.
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Old 08-04-2002, 11:06 PM
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Another 10/30user heavy oil robs power I agree switch to synthetic Im a believer In the syn.and Im stuck in the old school.[wrenchturner]
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Old 08-05-2002, 04:52 AM
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my 80 z28 always ran on straight 40, my pickup with 292000 mi on it goes the day with 10w 40 and still has moderate oil pressure. if your unsure do like me and stay in the middle. oil once heat flows, just during startup can thick oil make your gauge max out
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Old 08-05-2002, 07:29 AM
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From 1928 Franklin to 1940 Plymouth pickup and 40 Packard to 66 Catalina and 49 Studebaker throw in a nice 74 1/2 260z and a few Corvairs I guess you could say I was diversified. Still I'm always looking for something else interesting.
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Old 08-05-2002, 11:46 AM
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i dont understand why cant you switch to synthetic in an older engine... it just sounds like it would be a good idea to me...
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Old 08-05-2002, 02:05 PM
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you can interchange them, but why? emergency?
i use synthetic 10-40. if you have seasonal weather they say to use 10-40 in the winter and switch to straight 30 wgt for summer. i don't drive enough to change more than once a year so stay with the 10-40 syn. assuming a broke in engine with good compression.
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Old 08-05-2002, 02:51 PM
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Two reasons why I was told not to switch to synthetic in high mileage vehicles.
1. The synthetic can tend to cause the build-up already in your engine to break loose in the engine causing problems.
2. Old engines that tend to leak already could leak worse due to the molecular structure of synthetic.
I don't have a lab to run extensive testing of these theories but I do use synthetic in my mustang since the engine is rebuilt. I broke it in with regular oil and then switched to synthetic. My van has over 166,000 miles on it and I'm not switching now, it still gets regular old 10W30.

One final note, manufactures understand the importance of getting the oil through the engine as quick and as smoothly as possible. Most new engines are down to 5W30 and some to 5W20 to increase flow, as well as other reasons. I have seen valvetrain damage in OHC V-8 engines and Ford actually had a tech service bullitin concerning the use of thicker oils in their engines. Ok so you're thinking 'but my engine isn't brand new or OHC, that may be true but a lot of the reasons manufactures are using lighter weight oils can be applied to any engine. Twenty years ago in high school we all assumed thicker had to be better, not always.
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Old 08-05-2002, 03:16 PM
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I heard there was some stuff you could put in the car to clean it out before switching to synthetic. Supposedly pour it in through the carb and run the car til the black smoke stops coming out of your exhaust and then let it cool off and change oil to synthetic. It could have been BS though.
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Old 08-05-2002, 07:48 PM
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I use 10w40 in my 4.3L,anything heavier and it would not oil well.

I have found that using a light oil so it will travel up the motor fastert on cold start does not work as well as using and a littel bit heavrier oil that will cling to your parts and be there on start up.
You want to go so thick that you tax the oil pump to death,I would stay with in the 10w40-30 rang.
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