What will K-36 Hide? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 04:27 PM
68NovaSS's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Working with chromed bolts
Last journal entry: New to me T-Bucket
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nine Mile Falls, Washington
Posts: 5,223
Wiki Edits: 9

Thanks: 102
Thanked 131 Times in 122 Posts
What will K-36 Hide?

I've had DPLF primer on my car for about a year, when I shot it, it wasn't great, have some orange peel texture, not a lot, but visible. I've sanded with 80 grit, then 120 now 220. I can see what appear to be sanding scratches, but when I wet it, it looks pretty darn slick.

I'm going to shoot again with 2 coats of DPLF, then K-36, top and cc, PPG Deltron 2000 DBF base, 2021 Clear. I'm not 'anal' (my GF doesn't agree...), but how much will the K-36 cover?

I"ve searched the database and found different thoughts, but looking for more input about sanding or grey scotchbrite pad scuffing between primers and before topcoat. It won't be sitting, going to move right through to finish.

Thanks!

    Advertisement
__________________
Boost adds dignity to what would otherwise be a vulgar brawl...

Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 04:53 PM
31 five window
 

Last journal entry: Master cylinder
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: louisiana
Age: 56
Posts: 1,577
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
It will cover a lot but over time even the best products shrink a little.Do not try to cover 36 grit scratches. It will look good till it shrinks.Always sand it before primer sealer.And try to let it sit at least a week even if you are in a hurry to paint.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 05:50 PM
68NovaSS's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Working with chromed bolts
Last journal entry: New to me T-Bucket
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nine Mile Falls, Washington
Posts: 5,223
Wiki Edits: 9

Thanks: 102
Thanked 131 Times in 122 Posts
After reading your post I was able to contact the PPG rep here in town. First, I think you misunderstood, I'm not covering 36 grit scratches! I've sanded this car to almost glass smooth with 80, 120, and final 220. I can't really detect any scratches, just my anal vision thing, lol. They recommended final sanding of the K-36 with 500-600 before base-coat.

I was told there is no issue with shrinkage for the PPG K-36 and that matter fact, current day paint products are designed to do a project, start to finish in a day, two maximum. Go figure...

Not to derail your experience or knowledge, just that a week sounded like a long time. Maybe if I were laying it on thick, I don't know. Thanks for the quick response, gotta love this place!

Larry
__________________
Boost adds dignity to what would otherwise be a vulgar brawl...

Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 08:44 PM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
First off, 220 isn't "glass smooth". Not even close! If you are going to use those high dollar paints, you might want to invest in some more sand paper. Also, if that guy says it won't shrink over time, I would let him paint it, as I would bet against him. I did not see where you said if you are painting in a paint booth or not, but most of the products now days are designed to be used in a paint booth, if you are doing collision work, where it is expected to be done fast.

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 11:05 PM
68NovaSS's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Working with chromed bolts
Last journal entry: New to me T-Bucket
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nine Mile Falls, Washington
Posts: 5,223
Wiki Edits: 9

Thanks: 102
Thanked 131 Times in 122 Posts
Well, glass smooth may be the wrong choice of words. All over the forum I see laying K-36 over 180 grit is acceptable, I'm way past that. Over the finish I end up with will be more DPLF then the K-36; I'll resand with 5 or 600 before base coat.

Thanks for the input, I'm open minded and appreciate it all.
__________________
Boost adds dignity to what would otherwise be a vulgar brawl...

Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2008, 08:26 AM
cyclopsblown34's Avatar
Colorsanding painter
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Russellville, Missouri
Age: 47
Posts: 976
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 99
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I don't know diddly about PPG products...BUT, I really like your signature!!!!!!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2008, 10:57 AM
lets cut it up's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
All products shrink up ...some more than others. I don't recommend spraying paint over a car that has been just primed (same day in most instances) that way the solvents can get out of the primer and you wont have problems later. When I prime I wait one week before I block sand and re-prime or paint. Now I am not talking about a production shop doing fender benders though ...we have a whole different way of doing things in the repair world. I am talking about a high quality paint job that requires blocking and priming multiple times. JMO Tim
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2008, 02:09 PM
68NovaSS's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Working with chromed bolts
Last journal entry: New to me T-Bucket
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nine Mile Falls, Washington
Posts: 5,223
Wiki Edits: 9

Thanks: 102
Thanked 131 Times in 122 Posts
Thanks to everybody, I get the message.

Cyclopsblown - Thanks, got it from an old commander in the Marine Corps, 8" Howitzers, had it posted above his desk in Vietnam, except his started with 'Artillery", he he.
__________________
Boost adds dignity to what would otherwise be a vulgar brawl...

Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2008, 07:08 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
I did a class for about 50-60 painters in Mississippi a month ago and that question came up about primer shrinkage.
Perhaps exaggerated a little I said you can apply 20 coats of primer and not get any shrinkage, if each coat is allowed to flash properly and then cure out good before blocking.
OR you can get extreme shrinkage with just three coats if proper flashing and spraying technique is not followed. Perhaps a little exaggerated but pretty close to the truth.

Myself, I finish filler with 80 grit and all metal finishing is with a 24 grit grinder and if in a good mood will run over the metal finish spot with an 80 DA.
Just my way done for years and will not change something that works.
Primer over paint I always use 180 on the paint.

*With that said, you will have no issue with how you prepped the car if you follow the following.
*Spray first coat wet, never medium or dry--you want to fill the scratch and not take a chance of bridging the scratch.
*Let each coat totally flash before applying next coat and same with third coat.

As pointed out, production shops will sand primer in 30-60 minutes and paint but if its a car you want to look good and last let the primer set for a day or week before sanding.
Because you can sand a primer in thirty minutes does not mean the primer is totally cured.
Although not touted (out loud) primers range from full cure in a day (rare) to 18-22 days being more the norm in this industry.
Nano technology is changing this but in this industry very few primers are using it at this point because of cost but a couple of companies are.

Last edited by BarryK; 05-13-2008 at 07:15 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2008, 09:22 PM
68NovaSS's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Working with chromed bolts
Last journal entry: New to me T-Bucket
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nine Mile Falls, Washington
Posts: 5,223
Wiki Edits: 9

Thanks: 102
Thanked 131 Times in 122 Posts
Very well put Barry, thanks!

Larry
__________________
Boost adds dignity to what would otherwise be a vulgar brawl...

Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
36 Ford Pickup truck radiator/grill shell assembly Wes Searcy Introduce Yourself 11 10-03-2008 03:08 PM
36 chevy Oysteinbno Hotrodding Basics 7 11-07-2006 12:23 PM
'36 Olds Door wood mkcsbrown Body - Exterior 1 07-24-2006 08:21 PM
36 chevy stock axle rework info needed spuds1956 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 03-16-2004 04:30 PM
36 ford club cabrio wkbc62446@aol.com Body - Exterior 4 11-07-2002 09:14 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.