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Ok, so you dont believe me, you can spend $1500 on a race built C4 and then $2200 on a gear vendors under/overdrive unit. OR, you can do a bit of research and find a place like this. They build AOD (automatic OVERDRIVE) transmissions that are built for round after round of punishing abuse from large cubic inch nitrous injected ingines and have a lifetime guarantee for $1900. Something tells me they can handle more than 500 horses. But hey, to each his own. http://www.usaplaza.com/scripts/wcom...roductID=32176
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True... He did say street, Ive done some reading, I was wrong, and AOD is prolly fine... But WHAT MOTOR IS HE RUNNING? If its a sb, just bolt up a junkyard AOD and go, If its a 460, I dunno about other places, but its a very common "Street Rod" motor here, A stock AOD may be marginal... Those built AODs that Mustang66 posted look great, and they save you the trouble of wondering about the junkyard tranny... I thing I might get an AOD for my Wagon, in which case, Ill have a TCI C-4 to sell... I have a good setup on the stang now, I prooly wont change it... for this guy, it depends on his def of "street motor"
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Yes Jd, exactly what I was saying. It's a vague question and if you make $30,000 a year more than me of course what you would accept as 'street' would be different. I base 'street' on what I can afford to put into a car and still drive it regularly. So without shaggin defining his interpretation of 'street' we could all be way off base. But even without shaggin I really have enjoyed this little debate. It's always good to see a little Ford action.
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wow is all i can say i really dont know whether i am goin to use a 351 W stroked to either a 377 or a 393 or i was thinkin about a big block but i am really leaning towards the 351 idea lot easier to afford and yes my idea is something i can run on the street all the time affordably but i want this car to beat the hell out of all these stupid japanese cars and all them stupid 4 cylinders god it urks me when i lose to them rip offs
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The 351 will do a nice job of hanging ricers out to dry, prolly without any "power adder"... almost all the ricers run with a blower of some kind or goofy gas... you can make the right car run low 13s to high 12s with a motor like that and not much effort, more if you get a good set of heads... build all the motor without an induction system, wait a while, saving change, etc... BUY THE BEST HEADS YOU CAN POSSIBLY AFFORD! If you can possibly put 4 gs into a set of heads, do it... 450 hp isnt that hard with the right heads...
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one thing is tho this is all going into a car that weighs 5500 lbs its goin to be hard pressed to pull 12 in that i think or do you differ?
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true, but ur still talkin high 14 at the most... my country sqire runs 13.45 on a 302 and a 100 horse hit of N20, you should get the same power and more torque outa the stroked 351 combo...
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Heres something to think about though. Velocity equals torque, flow equals horsepower. If you spend 4g's on a huge set of heads, sure you will have a lot of top end horsepower, but zero low end torque. Thats why stock heads make a lot of low end torque, tiny ports, so you have a bunch of velocity goin through there. If you have a 5500lb car you WILL need a bunch of low end torque. You could get a really low gear ratio and advance your cam to get more torque but even then, you would have to spin really high rpms to reach the full potential of those big heads. If it is a street motor, i personally think that huge heads would not be a plus. If it were up to me, i would stick with intake ports at or below 180cc's with no bigger than 2.02 and 1.60 valves. Aluminum is always a plus, 25 pounds lighter per head, plus they cool better and allow a higher compression ratio. This is all just my opinion, debates are fun, but they get kinda tiring.
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True... with big heads, you would have to launch from a much higher RPM...
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