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Old 09-04-2008, 12:56 PM
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Whats better for my 385 Stroker??!!

SO whats better for my 385ci stroker? a Reworked 400 crankshaft or a new 383 crankshaft? let me know what you guys think? also i am thinking about using afr 190cc heads and an afr performer intake with a comp cams xtreme energy cam just in case you huys were wondering!

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Old 09-04-2008, 02:31 PM
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As far as the crank, I wouldn't give a hoot either way. For me, it would come down to the cheapest route and I'd sit down with a calculator and figure it out.
1. 400 crank turned down and externally balanced. (400 damper and flexplate)
2. 400 crank turned down and internally balanced. (350 damper and flexplate)
3. Aftermarket crank externally balanced.
4. Aftermarket crank internally balanced.

AFR heads are as good as it's ever gonna get in my opinion and 190 cc intake runners would be a perfect match for this size motor.

Depending on the cam you choose, the standard Performer might not be quite enough manifold. Consider stepping up to the Performer RPM with this many cubic inches and again, depending on the operating range of the cam you choose. An RPM with a slightly looser converter (around 2000 to 2200 stall) and a cam that makes power from maybe 2000 to 5800 might be my choice for a good street motor.

I don't like the extreme energy cams because of the fast ramps. The cam has enough grief to contend with, without asking it to jerk the valves open even faster than normal. Subtract 0.050" tappet lift duration from advertised duration and divide by 2 to find the clearance ramp duration on each side of the lobe between the extreme series and another grind design such as the magnum to see what I mean. Fewer degrees of ramp means the cam is workin' harder. With 300# valve open pressure, the loading on the lobe/lifter is up around 300,000 lbs./sq. in. and I think the cam needs all the help it can get. Just my opinion.

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Old 09-04-2008, 05:34 PM
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Hello if I was you I would go with a brand new Scat 3.750 cast steel crank which is brand new for one with out all the fatigue from a 100,000 mile plus motor. I used to have a cast iron 400 crank in my old stroker motor with the 5.565 rods and I was always afraid of taking it over 5000rpm cause I got it from PAW and it was a reground 10 10 crank and resized rods.

I always like to know what my used parts have been though especially a nice build like your making. But thats up to you price wise the cost to get your reground etc would save you a little. I have a nice new Scat cast steel crank in my new 350 build and will be using one in my next build for my daily driver truck. I have had mine cranked to almost 7000 a few times no problems. Not that I would recommend to rev it that far. I usually go no more then 6000. Good luck on whatever way you do it. Either way it will still be a decent build and for street use with occasional strip use it will hold up fine.
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:59 PM
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nothing wrong with a seasoned crank. If you are not sure about the stocker, have it magnifluxed. As for an aftermarket, If you are buying, but a forged unit. Cast is ok below 6500 if not leaned on all the time. my opinion is why jepordize the rest of the engine with a "low dollar" part especially a crank.
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