Which engine does your suburban currently have? Do you have a 2500 or 1500 Suburban? A gas powered Suburban with a 5.3, 5.7 or 6.0 is more than capable of pulling a 4000 lb trailer. The (probably massive) cost of swapping the diesel engine into a gas powered Suburban that was never designed to hold that engine isn't worth it for that small of a weight.
If you want something cool then install a centrifugal supercharger.
Duramax is an Isuzu-designed diesel used in 2001-up chevy 3/4 ton to 3 ton trucks and vans.
It uses a standard late chevy bellhousing pattern like your transmission already has. Problem is, it will destroy the rest of the drivetrain depending on what's in there. If you have a 1/2 ton burb, you have a 4L60E transmission. It will probably disintegrate the first time you mash the pedal. If you have a 3/4 ton it has a 4L80E which can be built to handle it, but you'll pay about $3000 to build it to handle the torque. Either way, the rear axle probably isn't up to it.
The best way to do it is to get a complete drivetrain from a duramax vehicle and swap it in. Expect to pay about $4000 for a used engine, $2000 for a trans to hold it, and multiple thousands to adapt, wire, and program etc. I'm budgeting $15,000 for my driveline, and for that kind of money you can buy a really sweet diesel tow rig.
Duramax is an Isuzu-designed diesel used in 2001-up chevy 3/4 ton to 3 ton trucks and vans.
It uses a standard late chevy bellhousing pattern like your transmission already has. Problem is, it will destroy the rest of the drivetrain depending on what's in there. If you have a 1/2 ton burb, you have a 4L60E transmission. It will probably disintegrate the first time you mash the pedal. If you have a 3/4 ton it has a 4L80E which can be built to handle it, but you'll pay about $3000 to build it to handle the torque. Either way, the rear axle probably isn't up to it.
The best way to do it is to get a complete drivetrain from a duramax vehicle and swap it in. Expect to pay about $4000 for a used engine, $2000 for a trans to hold it, and multiple thousands to adapt, wire, and program etc. I'm budgeting $15,000 for my driveline, and for that kind of money you can buy a really sweet diesel tow rig.
I had a really crazy idea of shoehorning a duramax in one of my C4's. Looks like thats alot more than I thaught it would be, but it all starts with a dream. Thanks for the post
1) Is it possible (i'm sure it's possible), better yet, it is practical to run a mechanical, completely non-electronic fuel injection system on the duramax? In other words, can the system from the 6.2/6.5 be adapted to it without too much fanfare?
2) i hear the next gen duramax is not designed by isuzu, is sweet, but because of typical gm behavior, probably won't be released.
Engine is already designed and tested, but gm managment is acting the way they normally do and they're afraid to release it----because it's too good and makes too much sense.
Will find link if time permits, or you can search for yourself. Engine is sweet.
My buddy has an 03, it's in the shop, 61,200 miles, needs $5000 worth of injector work. ain: I am researching the net for a class action lawsuit for him if G.M. doesn't do the right thing. It is 100 miles out of extended warranty. :smash:
^^^ agree. A 12v cummins would be much cheaper and require less work to install than the duramax. Check out "duraburb" they put duramax diesels into suburbans, but let me tell you its not cheap. The 12 valve cummins is all mechanical so no wiring and computers.
Dinger, find out from your friend how often he changed his fuel filter. It has to be changed every time the oil is changed AT THE LEAST. Not doing so will kill your injectors and then injector pump shortly after. The duramax is a strong engine that is capable of going 300k miles easily, but you have to keep up on the maintanace or it will not last long at all.
I absolutely cannot imagine putting a large, heavy diesel in a vehicle that didn't have one originally. You have virtually jack the body/chassis up, remove almost everything from the drive line, front to rear, suspension, gas tank, fuel lines, exhaust and start over. Wiring and engine controls along with some dash items will require some mods. With a complete (wrecked) donor vehicle - maybe.
My buddy has an 03, it's in the shop, 61,200 miles, needs $5000 worth of injector work. ain: I am researching the net for a class action lawsuit for him if G.M. doesn't do the right thing. It is 100 miles out of extended warranty. :smash:
1 drop of water in the fuel is enough to do this. The injectors are laser drilled and the outlet is too small to allow water to pass through so ANY water can blow the nozzle apart. Just a heads up to anyone wanting to do this in a careless fashion. The best duramax conversion I can recommend is to remove your butt from the seat of one, plant it in the seat of a truck already equipped, and it'll be cheaper plus done right. Make sure it's a late model where you can see the injectors in the valve cover and NOT an earlier one where you only see the lines. The later is easier to fix and much improved needing less fixing to start with.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.7K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!