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Old 03-05-2002, 05:58 PM
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Wink whats the right stuff

what is the best sealant to use on head studs into the water jacket of the block. RTV,Permatex#2,or maybe somthing else? I found out the hard way that ARP thread sealant dosn't work, even though thats what they make it for. I had to rip my engine down, so all I can say is it's all part of the fun, but I don't want to have the same fun twice.

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Old 03-06-2002, 02:46 AM
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I usually use teflon tape as a sealant, lubricant and thread lock. But to be on the safe side in your application, you may want to go the Permatex #2 route.
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Old 03-06-2002, 03:47 PM
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hogerdoger,howdy!this probably isnt the total answer, but its the only one i can give right now.no matter what you use,be clean!carb cleaner or laquer thinner seem to work very good for me.later,jimm
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Old 03-10-2002, 05:54 PM
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I had the same problem. Drain the rad&block.
pull the covers off and started with #1 stud and pull each one out seperatly in tightning order and redo it with Black high temp oil ressistant silicone(ONLY ON THREADS). I cleaned my threads with a thread chaser to clean them first.Had to drop the headers back to get at the lower studs.
It realy dont take long to do. Less than a days work. Double nut the stud to R&R it.
No leaks since.
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Old 03-11-2002, 06:04 AM
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I had the same problem only once,that is to say till we discovered a GM GOODWRENCH PIPE SEALANT with teflon part#1052080. It comes in a 1.69 fl oz tube and can be bought a any GM DEALER.This stuff with out a doubt is GREAT!.Hope this info helps.


NOVA JEFF
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Old 03-11-2002, 03:59 PM
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I have always had good luck with the 3-M weatherstrip adhesive. have used this on my cars for close to 30 years can remember whene that was the only thing around. As with above make sure the threads are clean.

The Hillbilly
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Old 03-12-2002, 09:36 AM
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Whatever way you go be sure to start with a clean slate, clean everything as good as possible (bolts,etc.!!) then apply your sealer according to manufacturers directions. This should put a smile on your face!!!!!
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Old 03-12-2002, 12:01 PM
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Never had a problem with permatex.
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Old 03-12-2002, 05:05 PM
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I agree with 1bad80, I use a new product called "the right stuff" by Permatex. Expensive but it makes a high temp rubber(not silicone) gasket and seal and doesnt have to set up.Will not deteriorate with fuel,oil or antifreeze as silicone does. Snkbyt
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Old 03-12-2002, 05:50 PM
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I have used a product call Indian Shelac, made by Permetex. It comes in a brown bottle with a cotton swab like applicator. Others have told me that the studs may be hard to remove after using this product, but mine never leaked...
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Old 03-12-2002, 07:43 PM
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God created Permatex in the bottle (not sure of the number off the top of my head right now) with the brush applicator to rid us of leaks. Installed under the head and the washer as well, eliminated the need to ever retorque my BBC aluminum cylinder heads.

Permatex gasket sealer in the tube is used to seal oil pan gasket to block and pan. Front oil pan seal to timing cover is best adhered with 3M weatherstrip "Yellow Death".

After you're all done throw in a can of GM Engine Oil Supplement (another God created item) and you will break in just fine.

I'm new but I learned from the old school from the likes of Wes and Al Cerney, Don Moody in the Golden years
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Old 03-14-2002, 07:22 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by hogerdoger:
<strong>what is the best sealant to use on head studs into the water jacket of the block. RTV,Permatex#2,or maybe somthing else? I found out the hard way that ARP thread sealant dosn't work, even though thats what they make it for. I had to rip my engine down, so all I can say is it's all part of the fun, but I don't want to have the same fun twice. </strong><hr></blockquote>
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Old 03-16-2002, 08:45 AM
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hogerdoger; headbolts/studs have been done with many 'tricks of the trade', and one will use what best 'resulted' for him/her. The biggest note is that the threads in the block and on the bolts/studs must be clean and oil free. Thread chasing the block and brushing the fasteners, then cleaning them with a quick evaporating 'brake cleaner' will help the sealant to adhere. Some of the sealants will be very hard to remove (hardens with heat) if disassembled later and RTV can actually prohibit proper bolt torque. NovaJeff's suggestion of GM Pipe Sealant is both a non-hardening sealant and will not turn 'rubbery' like RTV, will not allow corrosion from coolant to form within the threads, allows fasteners to be removed easier and cleans off the threads later with little muscle. Good Luck!
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