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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 09:59 AM
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Use the air hose to blow off the bondo leavings on the sandpaper? Leave it to you to learn me something new today. Thanks!

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 10:14 AM
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Good information DeadBodyman. That should help Josh. If you get a chance, take a look at Josh's blog. He has posted a link at post 25 of this thread. The rear valance (typical aftermarket part) has too much curve and does not match up to the quarter panel. Without sheet metal tools, can you give him advise on how to make this panel fit better. It obviously needs to be tweaked but I am not comfortable telling him to start bending a new panel. It is one of those things you know can be made better but hard to tell someone else how to do it.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long
Good information DeadBodyman. That should help Josh. If you get a chance, take a look at Josh's blog. He has posted a link at post 25 of this thread. The rear valance (typical aftermarket part) has too much curve and does not match up to the quarter panel. Without sheet metal tools, can you give him advise on how to make this panel fit better. It obviously needs to be tweaked but I am not comfortable telling him to start bending a new panel. It is one of those things you know can be made better but hard to tell someone else how to do it.
I think hes doing a fantastic job on that ole stang...As far as that rear valance goes I believe the flange itself is wrong and needs trimming ,if its hitting something thats preventing it from fitting flush,usually in that area there is extra metal and it just needs to be trimmed off or flattened out..
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
Use the air hose to blow off the bondo leavings on the sandpaper? Leave it to you to learn me something new today. Thanks!
I just found my USB with all my old pics (I thought my dog eat it) I did this roof a few years ago on my plymouth...the whole roof was done in 8hrs ..The reason I remember was because my bodyman bet me it couldn't be done that quick...
Two coats of bondo ,sanded before it got hard and two skim coats of EZ sand Poly putty followed by two coats of SPI epoxy primer...I won the bet but it dam near killed me....look at how clogged the paper gets after a few strokes then how the blower gets the paper cleaned out like new....sanding your bondo while it still soft is THE biggest,best, trick I ever learned...I just wish I learned it 20 yrs sooner....

Cyclops, we got to get together sometime,now that the plymouth is running ,its insured but not quite legal yet...very soon though...
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I think hes doing a fantastic job on that ole stang...As far as that rear valance goes I believe the flange itself is wrong and needs trimming ,if its hitting something thats preventing it from fitting flush,usually in that area there is extra metal and it just needs to be trimmed off or flattened out..
I've already been there, done that I thought the pinch weld on my new quarter was stopping it so I trimmed it down but it's the true arc of the panel that's really stopping it. One of these nights soon I'll go get some pics from different perspectives.

I'm glad DBM really isn't dead; I've always enjoyed the advice he gives Truth be told I was disappointed because he hadn't popped into this thread.

So reflecting on your original comments...

--I do use EZ sand and use it alot...it's good stuff.

--I do blow off my dust and blow off my sandpaper. In fact the big brown table you see my hood setting on has a big fence staple in the side of it for setting the hook to my air hose blower nozzle on. I can't block without my air.

--I'm really good about mixing up the filler and getting a good color. I was always good at this, even in classes. My color is usually pretty consistent.

--You know, back in the day I used to sand the filler after 30 minutes or so and anymore I come out and do it the next day! I need to go back to sanding it as fast as I did.

--Sounds like I really do need to pick up some 40 grit hook-it strips for my 3M block.

Haven't actually had a chance to work on it at all this week yet. I've already got high spots coming through in some areas so I stopped sanding there. I HATE skimming too because I can't make up a very big batch at a time so it takes me a long time.

I might try the paint stick paddle trick too.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 07:19 PM
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Well thanks for the kind words I just havent had as much time to do much posting lately...
You really should try sanding while its soft but you have to stand right there and keep touching it so when it hits the sweet spot your ready ,3=5 miniutes tops....You should be able to sand it off almost as fast as you put it on...while your standing there waiting for it take a 6" metal putty knife and shave down your ridges and high spots,just remember go lightly no pressure on the block it'll cut like crazy as it is...it'll take a little while to get used to but once you got it you got it.. I also guide coat every stage of my bondo and putty work,as a matter of fact I dont sand anything without a guide coat first with the exception of color sanding ...
Either way the car is looking great ,be patient it'll come to you ,its better to be good than fast and being good and fast takes lotsa time to learn.
one thing I have learned over the years is no one man knows everything you take a little from this guy and a little from that guy and you develop your own style that works for you...keep your eyes and ears open everyone has something you can learn from...I've learned some of my best stuff from social outcasts and miserable old farts....
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:55 PM
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Ditto to all the above
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
There are acutaly 3 "secreats" when used in combanation will nail it every time

oldie but a goodie some stuff you already know but the 3 are in there

clicky --> http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...6&page=1&pp=20

Thanks Milo...I haven't acknowledged your input yet. You know, I've actually read that link before. I think it's from another time you posted it. I have all these bits of information I've gotten from here. Some of it you forget from information overload, some of it you know (but forget you know), and some of it you know you'll forget.

One question--how are you guys actually applying your skim coats? I know Milo said do it in one stroke for the entire length. My problem is I tend to run out of material before I can finish the stroke and need to reload. The Platinum I use is pretty creamy, basically the same consistency as the Rage.
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by milo
Good wine country and you got a glider field near you too.
Blue skies and green lights ridin through the great shakies of Cali
Milo, i lived in SF from 73 until 2000. i loved riding my bikes and driving my vettes through the coastal hills between the south bay and the coast, those were some FUN high speed 2 lane mountain roads. Ever been to Alices restaurant in the coastal hills just west of you? it was a great meeting place for both bikes and cars in good weather in the 70s. as i remember (and i could be wrong) highway 82 or 92? ran south on the ridge. it was a high speed blast to alices. heading east from alices down into Redwood city was super fun, there are no downhill twisties in the world that compare to that, every turn is a hairpin on a downhill slope, one mistake and you could end in a 100 foot revine. in the 70s to cruise south 101 was the way to go. To test drive high HP HS cars 280 was the way to go. there were NEVER any CHPs cruising 280. it was way wider and better than 101. drove a 54 vette to 110 on 280 after tuning it, it was scary and took a long time, slow off the line but the 6 started to pull slowly up to 110. Hi horse C2s that i worked on back in the day never needed 280. my shop was in daly city. the only test drives i needed to do was shifting through the gears going up san bruno mountian, then brakeing back down. i worked on all these cars but test driving them was way to fun.

the pantera, i worked on one at my shop in 74 in daly city.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2012, 03:43 AM
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sounds like my commute http://youtu.be/r5giXSpTK8I
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:18 AM
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BDBM, most definitely. I'll have to get down south or you to the midwest at some point if either of our schedules allows. I'm finally making progress on my little brother's 51 Chevy RPU we talked about a couple years ago.
Oops, I better give the thread back to the original poster. Sorry Lizer.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:46 PM
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I am going to reiterate, to read all the tips from the experts here. It helped me get a super straight car.

Some of the "cast in iron" tips, I always used;
Get the very best out of the metal first. Hammer dolley, Shrinking disc, and straight-edge before filler.
Use a super coarse grit to flatten the panel (I used a cheeze grater and 60-80 grit)
Sand when the filler is soft or gelling (this can be tricky depending on temperature)
Don't cross-contaminate your fillers (clean everything well) pre-mixes of fillers, can some-times reduce the kick time of subsequent batches.
I used drywall tools, knives of varying sizes, for flat application of fillers.
Use multiple colours of hardeners with each fill. Thus when you are sanding, you can see where you are breaking through layers of fillers (high spots) Different layers of fillers have different hardnesses 80% of the time and will sand differently.
Use layers of tape on your body lines to get sharp lines. When you are flat and fill the adjacent side, change colours on your hardener again, that way the line will always be visible.

When you are close, get some bright halogen lights, dim the garage lights, apply a mix of 10% methyl hydrate and water onto the body surface. With the halos at various angles you can pick up a lot of flaws and minor imperfections.
I found that this worked good, after using guide coat, on big panels.

Heat is a big deal. After 1 year in primer, the engine heat caused shrinkage in my fiberglass hood, and I had a mirror image of the inner frame, on the surface of my hood.

Oh yeah, I made most of my blocks, from various pieces of wood. I cut and sanded them to fit the body lines, and length I needed. Some times I would make several of the same size and shape. I had all my sandpaper, pre-stuck, and ready to go. That way as the sandpaper got clogged, I could just change blocks, and not losing precious seconds, as the filler was setting up.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2012, 07:13 PM
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Tonight I did the first work on it since starting this thread. I went back to my 3M board and my 80 grit Hook-It II paper and even on the well hardened filler I had down it was still cutting nice. I need to pick up some 40 grit for cutting the fresh filler; on my list of things to get.

I now have some paint coming through in a few spots so I stopped. I did several layers of guide coats and blocks tonight but still have some low spots.

My question is at what point do I go to spray poly rather than applying another skim coat?
I'd like to go to spray poly now but having never used it I don't know how well it builds. I'm hesitant to do another skim coat but maybe I just need to nut up and do it.

Most of the low spots are in between places where I spot filled with EZ sand, and other spots with existing guide coat I can't feel the low with my hand by the guide coat says it's low. Then there is one place where I tapped a high spot down and in doing so made myself a bummer of a low spot that I definitely CAN feel.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2012, 07:50 PM
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You could probably go to the spray poly at this point rather than try a skim coat of your low areas. Put down a few heavy coats of the poly where your low spots are, and ONLY on those low spots first. Then go ahead and give the whole panel a nice even coat. This will help the fill primer to lay down pretty even while still filling those low areas, as where trying to skim coat a low spot you are creating a high spot to feather into the rest of your work. Guide coat this before you block it out again, I don't know which poly you are using but I usually block that out with 100 or 120 grit. I can not stress enough that your blocks MUST be flat and not flexible, as a flexible block will always follow uneveness and you WILL struggle to acheive ultra flat results.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:54 PM
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I'm planning on going with some Slick Sand.

I think I've seen this stuff requires at least a 1.7-2+mm tip. My largest is 1.8 mm; am I still going to have a hell of a time getting it through that?
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