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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2012, 08:43 PM
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it's easy to tell just by the sound of it when hit by the hammer. If it sounds more solid than the surrounding area than it probably is the glob. There's a few things you can do...you can cut it away with an air saw and hope the width of the blade is big enough to compensate for whatever material is making it high, OR the hood is not adhered as well as it should be to the inner structure and it moves, OR you have it on a stand where the middle of the inner structure is supporting the entire weight of the hood...and no matter how much sanding you do it will change shape once you have it off the stand. To be honest...hoods are a nightmare.

I handle these issues by first putting it on a stand just so it's supported by a stand by the striker and the very back outside edge of the inner structure. Nothing touching the middle of the hood on the underside. I then cut away the glob at the high spot and ensure I cut enough foam so the high can be lowered, then I check to see if it's lowered. I then re-adhere that spot but also re adhere it in many places in case it wants to move on me. This usually does the trick, but you also have to worry about what deadbodyman is saying about the surrounding areas flexing so that's something to consider and look out for as well and I've gotten fooled a bunch of times oversanding due to it. Even seasoned vets get fooled by hoods, make no mistakes about it.

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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2012, 08:53 PM
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Well it's good to know everyone gets fooled by hoods, I honestly wasn't expecting this much of a battle. I thought this would be a very simple, basic operation, and thought the worst was over when I had finished my roof.

What do you readhere with?

DBM, I tried your paintstick method tonight but I still get a lot of flexing. I reached under the hood and pushed up on the metal and it didn't feel any different. I was using wood shims too, which are a lot more rigid.
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2012, 04:10 AM
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Lets look at this from a different perspective.
If that hood had a quarter size dent you wouldnt have any trouble at all fixing it would you....Flip that hood around and that dent becomes a high spot from the other side ,you with me? Dont look at it as a high spot but as a dent and thats something you CAN fix.
every dent has a high ridge around it so when you pull the dent out you also have to knock that ridge down at the same time.Most times you can pull a dent without actually pulling on the middle of it but applying a slight pressure and tapping down that ridge .the dent just naturally goes back flush whether its an old style screw puller ,dent picks or a stud welder.
Cutting the glob out is one way and I've done that,also slipping a slapper in there between the two pieces as a dolly but dont forget to put more Goo back in ...If the globs are still sticking prety well I like to pull on the inner structure (down) pulling the high spot with it then give tap with crowned hammer at the same time, sometimes it takes two people...You can also push the structure up to get out the shollow spots...you'd be surprised how much you can straighten a damaged hood just by manipulating the inner structure.
after all they are glued together so you cant move one without the other moving...
Trick of the day:
use a heavy,thick walled impact socket as a dolly when you tap down high spots the socket needs to be right around the same size as that high ring thats around a dent that size .That is,if your lucky enough to be able to get at the back side ,if the structure is in the way ,make your own luck and cut that sucker out ,do the repair and weld it back in place but only when all else has failed...
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:40 AM
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interesting. The guru of our shop says the same thing about pulling it away and hammering it down. He recalls a car that was sitting in a barn in which the hood was used as a shelf. Said you could see the outline of the inner structure from the top. Says he fixed the whole hood using that method as well as adding 2 part seam sealer all around for insurance. I'll try that on the next hood I do. I don't think I ever gotten a bad hood equal to the rest of the car in two primes. It always takes me 3 primes but I'm working on it....they're tough!
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2012, 12:30 PM
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You don't want to "glue" the hood skin to those inner structures. It may look beautiful when you have painted it but after a little use (flexing) after it is exposed to heat and cold and the material expands and contracts differently you are going to have a wavy surface.

We are talking "bestest" here, not "best" let's get this straight. But hitting the high spot down if it's a small high spot as DBM suggests is a option.

I myself look at every option, and each panel is going to be different. Hitting down the high spot and "paving" over it is an option. IF that high spot is pretty pronounced. Another is to build up the surrounding area to meet the high spot. We aren't talking about that much here guys, what could that high spot be? Often it is VERY little, say a 1/16" or so tops.

A large skim coat over the whole area and sanding it with NEW, SHARP, QUALITY paper changing it often can do this.

I can't explain it very easy but I will cut that filler with 36, SHARP 36 with NO pressure, we are talking "floating" over the top with the long board. "Hovering" over the surface where ONLY the tips of the paper are hitting, cutting the filler. Once that is done, and it's pretty close, a number of coats of polyester primer and cutting it with 80 the same way.

I have had a lot of success doing this and ending up with a nice panel that looks great for years.

Brian
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2012, 05:29 PM
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Not a glue but the same kind of stuff the factory uses that flexes I cant remember what the heck its called but glue would be be a bad thing..in most cases its the inner structure that causes all the problems...
BTW ,the paint sticks they use today are nothing like we used to have ,today's paint paddles will either break when you look at them or you can almost bend them around and touch the ends together so using something stiffer would be better mabee strips of aluminum or something like that to temporarily put some strength into the hood so you can sand it,whats nice about hot glue is all you gotta do is heat it up with a little hair drier and they come right back off....you cant leave them up there even if you have the insulator back on to cover them up...
Back in the day we actually repaired hoods now you can get a Chinese hood for a 100.00 so that art is being lost more and more every year one more reason why the ins companies have ruined the trade
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2012, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Not a glue but the same kind of stuff the factory uses that flexes I cant remember what the heck its called but glue would be be a bad thing..in most cases its the inner structure that causes all the problems...
I'm with you I should have clarified. You are after "anti flutter" or something like that. It needs something that will give a little.

Brian
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2012, 05:55 PM
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My brain always hits a dead zone when I try to remember the name of that stuff but when your asking about it at the supply store make double sure it wont expand OR contract as it drys also...
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 12:27 AM
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What's the secret/trick to skim coating

The nickname for a black rubber like material that comes in a rope (in a box) is called 'Ford Welding Rod', sorry I don't remember the brand name, but any good supply house like Whitney's will know what you talking about. We use it to quiet and firm up Jaguar aluminum hoods (bonnets). Some hoods we have worked on a felt like material that has rotted away or had to be removed. Ford Welding Rod came to the rescue. It takes years for it to dry out. Once you have removed the glob of stuff you are concerned with and knock down your high spot. Try a piece of 'Ford Welding Rod and push into the areas that need support. As mentioned you have to stabilize the metal otherwise you will have problems later on.
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 12:30 AM
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I'll be looking for it, sounds like a great tip, thanks.

Brian
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
My brain always hits a dead zone when I try to remember the name of that stuff but when your asking about it at the supply store make double sure it wont expand OR contract as it drys also...
Jesus, you guys are animals...I can barely keep up in this thread!

As a side note, I do take all your contributions to heart; I don't necessarily respond to each one to make the thread even longer than it is, but when I'm working these comments and posts are ALWAYS going my head. Sometimes I'll be thinking, 'now Tech69 was saying something about the sound when tapping it and this and that..' (it's like he had heard my mind because he came back to this thread and reposted that info in the same thread again). Then I have to come back and reread everything several times.

I think the entire body working process is going to be more painful for me having relocated to Michigan from Iowa and losing all my contacts. Back in Iowa I had my former body instructor of whom we were good friends and he'd swing by to look at an issue or help me with something, and I was good friends with another body guy in town who would also help me, loan me tools, and was even going to let me use his booth. And then on top of it we had a wonderful supply store who gave me the same discount my instructor got. Out here I now know nobody, and I called the one supply store I could find, and they didn't know what Slicksand was (they carry evercoat products).

Couple those frustrations with the fact that we just bough an acreage with 11 acres and enjoying all the costs and issues that go with owning one and making the desired improvements, all the while wanting to continue saving as much money as possible for a rainy day. Kind of puts buying the things I want to for this car at a lower priority and I've been well disciplined with it so far. Still sucks because it just draws the process out even longer. And it doesn't help that this Hook-it II sandpaper is $1.49 a strip!
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 03:24 PM
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A 12 pac of beer is only about 10.00 it shouldnt be to much trouble to find a bodyman to befriend ,just get within 50 of a shop around lunch time and pop a few, make sure the breeze is blowing towards the shop....You remember Popeyes friend Whimpie that loved hamburgers???
Same thing...I do love an ice cold coors light after a rough day..
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 05:00 PM
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You are my kind of Deadbodyman. Wish I was closer to Josh. Free beer is wonderful. Drinking it in a buddy's shop is just plain great.

John L
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 05:16 PM
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I was actually thinking the same thing a few days ago John. I was actually thinking 'he's That old neighbor who comes over and helps you do everything.'

For that matter I wish I was closer to a lot of people on this forum.

You know what else had occurred to me? Everything is always asking you to list last name first, first name last. Which would make you Long John.
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:26 PM
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Funny you brought that up. I went through four years of the Navy as Long John. Now my friends just call me 40 Grit. Seems I am slightly abrasive.

John L
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