[Mustangsaly]

I know where a complete 400 SBC 2 bolt main is w/balancer and flexplate & its a std bore block. (well its complete minus carb and accessories) it's std bore, but has been honed one time when it was freshened, I'm sure .30 should clean it up for a fresh start. it was running when pulled and has good compression on all 8 cylinders. (it was pulled cause he added a lift and tires and painted the ole 3/4t suburban it was in, so it also got a BBC transplant, as he finished his drag car and wanted more for a tow rig back & forth to the track) it has some smogger heads on it. its a buddies and it was in a suburban that was a hunting rig, wasn't a engine that was raced and it's never been hot. I don't need it. its just for stash, you know later project. my thinking was later on my options could be a 406 or a 400 crank to build a 383 or a 377. plus I have a couple nice sets of SBC heads to go with something, I have in stash a set of 062 vortec that need upgraded springs and some screw in studs and a fresh set of 76cc snoggers that have bigger valves and some other stuff done to them. plus I have a couple nice complete builder 350s also, ones a older LH dip stick 4 bolt main 3970010 block. and my son and I are looking for a roller or a complete vehicle to play with and hit the track some with. mostly a future father son project he can learn from building a engine and chaises for fun and learn the drag strip too. my real question is what would you pay for a decent 2 bolt main 400 SBC ?




thanks
Mustangsaly

[j.d.brown.042964]

The man who built my 408 and bulids many 406's and 408's (as well as 377/383/434,etc) talked with me at lenghth before I purchased from him, and he explained to me that the earlier castings like #511 and if I remember correctly also #817 are generally regarded as more preferable due to their being heavier/thicker castings (about 11 lbs. heavier) and less prone to having defects or core-shift. He told me he always looks for '70-mid '73 blocks for buildups for this reason. I can give you his e-mail adress or phone# if you would like, as he is very knowledgeable on history of 400 smallblocks and sbc chevy engines in general.(That was my reason for purchasing from him,as opposed to someone else.) He is located in Ames,Iowa and frequently goes to Nebraska anyway, for various reasons. Let me know if you want his name/e-mail/phone# and I would be glad to provide to you.He's been building smallblock chevy's for over 30 years and knows his stuff.

[Mustangsaly]

Originally Posted by j.d.brown.042964

The man who built my 408 and bulids many 406's and 408's (as well as 377/383/434,etc) talked with me at lenghth before I purchased from him, and he explained to me that the earlier castings like #511 and if I remember correctly also #817 are generally regarded as more preferable due to their being heavier/thicker castings (about 11 lbs. heavier) and less prone to having defects or core-shift. He told me he always looks for '70-mid '73 blocks for buildups for this reason. I can give you his e-mail adress or phone# if you would like, as he is very knowledgeable on history of 400 smallblocks and sbc chevy engines in general.(That was my reason for purchasing from him,as opposed to someone else.) He is located in Ames,Iowa and frequently goes to Nebraska anyway, for various reasons. Let me know if you want his name/e-mail/phone# and I would be glad to provide to you.He's been building smallblock chevy's for over 30 years and knows his stuff.

I will get the block # off it. but I know its a good block and would not be scared to build a budget street/strip fun engine out of it. I was thinking the 400 and the vortec heads would make a nice setup. or heck could get crazy and carried away as I sometimes overkill and put a forged crank and forged pistons in it if I found the right vehicle, and then turn the 400 crank for a 350 block and build a 383. 2 engines outa one. I have a 1 piece rear main forged 350 crank I was thinking about using with the vortec heads. I like to have some goodies stashed away. but yeah I would not mind picking a knowledgeable mans brain on these 400s. never hurts to know some secrets that some of the ole timers/ole builders know thats for sure. I know where ames Ia. is. his info would be appreciated.


a guy here, well its been 6yrs ago now as he passed away a yr ago did a father son build project 383 for a 78 malibu. everyone told him not to use the 5.565 weak 400 rods but this was a budget build. they reconditioned the 400 rods and turned the cast 400 crank and used a set of used 350 pistons and balanced it and put it in a 350 2 bolt block they had machined & bored, and I think it got some used camel hump heads put on it. but that malibu is still screaming around here with a 350th and 342 rear end gears. the kid is prob 23 or 24 now and just got married this spring. but that poor mans 383 in the ole malibu did real good, especially with a 17yr old driving it from start up till now, it wasn't babied much and I'm guessing its prob gona need a freshing sometime. I see the cars painted now and heard his mom did that for his wedding gift.


but thanks

Mustangsaly

[j.d.brown.042964]

Mustangsaly; I sent info.of the engine builder in Iowa to your mailbox; hope it is of benefit to you.
ps; good luck with the future endeavours.

[400smb_s10]

I payed $500 for mine but I didnt know jack shiat all about motors then and I got screwed with it because it needs machine work. But around here thats approx what there worth thats (CDN Dollars). But Im glad I have it even if it does need machine work, they have good potential.

Hope this helps

Ed

[BOBCRMAN@aol.com]

Saw one go for $250. on Ebay. cracked thru the center water holes , already .040 over and needing a bore job, no main caps.. And you thought you got screwed!!

[baddbob]

I've got two stashed, paid $150 each, one had a spun rod bearing.