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Wheel Hop with a 12 bolt pozzi
Sorry guys, same question as below but with a different car...
Just put in a auburn pozzi, along with new corvette rims. 72 chevelle with no leaf springs. 12 bolt.... At a complete stop, you punch the gas and the rear wheels hop really bad. The whole car feels like its going to jump out of its own chassis. I thought it was kind of strange. Any ideas on how to fix the problem? Thanks, Mike |
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Prolly worn out bushings, you could renew them with urethane or Delrin pieces and most likely cure that...
Russ |
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I see your running Corvette rims & tires!!!
The C 5s & 6s had a resonance problem with the wheel & tires and installed 2 different 1/2 shafts to solve the problem! Quote: "Wheel Hop - Causes and Cures C6 Z06 . ... The cause of wheel hop is the rapidly repeated grip/slip of rear tire's traction accompanied buy reverse torque of the rear differential. ... The cure is to have 2 different size half shafts as on the ZR1. That dampened the resonance!" Large rims, small sidewall tires ( no cushion or flex in side wall) I don't know if that's part of the problem but a simple change of tires and rims would be an easy test!! On the Chevelle when raising the rear body hight it changes the pinion angle and a simple lowering of the rear of the body will alleviate some wheel hop ( If the rear was raised???) Traction bars would help but pinion angle must be right!!! Jester |
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Hey guys,
Yes, I have coils on the car. The rear was never raised, but could probably use a 1" drop in the back. As for the rims and tires, I guess I did forget to mention that. When I did all the differential work, I did change the rims/tires to the c5's. I love them and couldn't bare to remove them. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike |
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you need no hop bars (they move the upper link mount on the 12 bolt) and adjustable upper links... (to adj pinion angle)
and new bushings rubber in one end of the links poly in the other.. don't use all poly. it'll bind in a 4 link |
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Quote:
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Ontario Rodders |
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Chevelle 4-links are prone to wheel-hop. The suspension bushings and links and even the frame loads up until the tires slip...then when they let go everything suddenly releases like a spring, to repeat the process. What you could do with an independent rear suspension such as on a 'Vette doesn't exactly apply with the solid axle. Trying different bushings may help, however going from stock rubber to all-urethane on my stock-height BB El Camino (with factory boxed frame, suspension mount braces and boxed control arms) only caused moderate wheel-hop to turn into severe wheel-hop to the point where it cannot be used at a drag strip so keep that in mind if you ever hear anyone say that's the automatic answer.
Ladder bars are a great cure for strip use but greatly increase rear roll stiffness, which is undesirable for the street. Since the energy being absorbed and released is spread among many components including above-mentioned and the tires also...and does in-fact involve resonance...curing it may involve "tuning" using a combination of things such as stiff bushings combined with stock ones, etc. I do like the upper control arm re-locators but they affect clearance. So I'm not actually offering a cure (or I'd have my own one cured), just expounding on the problem a little bit. There are guys around who run pretty hard on those suspensions with good success. |
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An easy test to see if lowering the rear will help is to put a couple of passengers in the back seat or weight in the trunk, that will lower the rear! And see if that helps the wheel hop.
The Lakewood bolt on ladder bars for coils work very well and give you enough flex for a fairly good ride on the street and "LOOK GOOD " The solid double adjustable ladder bars are very harsh on the street with no give for cornering or bumps!!!!Jester Last edited by painted jester; 03-07-2013 at 11:09 AM. |
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Lakewood or Edelbrock no-hop bars(as mention above)
I tried ladder bars, although they stopped the hop, they made the ride intolerable. The no-hops cured the problem, and didnt alter the ride. |
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