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Yup pull the hub..those are easy on the front..R&R the studs on a press is best..
Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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I would remove the hub and then use a hydraulic press to remove the studs ... But then ... I have a hydraulic press
Most machine shops could do it for not much $$$ ... after you have the hub off.
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"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. " |
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Don't bash them with a hammer because it could bend the flange.
Plus, some replacement longer studs are a little too big on the press fit dimension to fit. My friend just went through this with a 57 chev rear. He had to machine the studs to a .002 interference fit to be able to install them. |
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I will probalby just remove the hub and bring it to a shop that has a press and let them remove them. I will save money by installing the new ones myself - I hope. |
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Vince |
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If you pull the studs in with a nut it is very likely that it will take more torque then they are rated for and they will stretch, destroying your new studs. As a last ditch effort sure; but you don't want to start out planing to do them that way. If you do might as well use an impact.
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I've pulled in quite a few with a lug wrench and plenty of wheel-bearing grease on the splines and threads, and I've never had any trouble at all with any of them. Never had to turn the wrench as hard as I do when changing a flat. I did clean the grease off the threads once I was done, and checked them for tightness a couple of times after driving a little ways.
I did hammer six broken front studs out of my '72 Nova, but it was in 1975, and they weren't rusty. You might play heck getting a long stud in there from the back side, so you could end up having to pull the hub anyway. |
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Lee |
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