[deadbodyman]

Its very important to adjust your doors and deck lid before starting the 1/4s this way you can monitor any changes in your gaps and set your gaps to the doors....also use drill screws when fitting the 1/4 it makes it ez to remove and replace it a hundred times for the pefect fit...its also the last thing you weld there may be more steel inside that needs replacing so the screws will put the 1/4 in the exact same place every time...when fitting the inner pieces do them with the 1/4 screwed on so you know they'll fit right and make putting it all back together an ez job...

[freethinker52]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

Even if you find te full 1/4s with the jambs all the edges of the jambs are way off (rounded not sharpe) so I dont use them ,I cut them off,unless the ones I have are so rusted I have to.I always try to get the full 1/4s because they are better quality than a patch skin...I've done a ton of these 1/4s and the best place to splice is two inches down fron the top edge,never the body line...its structurly more sound a good place to weld it'll keep the contour of the top line the same the new 1/4s you never know if its even close...I always flange the seam for added strength and less warpage when welding...heres some pics to help explain..there many reasons for why this is the best place to put the seam and there a lot more to know but this is how I do them....with great results...

thanks for the info

[freethinker52]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

I always flange the seam for added strength and less warpage when welding.....

i have read on other threads comments that it is better to butt weld than flange because they claim that a flange weld can be seen under hot sun conditions. i would assume you do not agree with that statement since you stated you always flange. i would prefer to flange because its easier to weld if it wont show up later. any comments?

[nanaimoBC]

ive never had a flange weld show anytime...but i usually but weld cause thats the way the old basterd who taught me did it

[deadbodyman]

Its best to learn both ...there are many advantages to a Butt weld in certain areas but this particular seam would be best flanged, Its almost imposable to hammer and dolly lt if it warps.The flange gives it strength and almost no warpage if you take your time.
If you punch holes every two or three inches to plug weld the new 1/4 to the flange then weld the edge of the flange where the new 1/4 meets the old and weld it all the way down you wont see a shadow...its like a butt seam with a backing to keep the two pieces from moving separately as you weld...KEEP your welds cool when grinding....and grind only the weld dont let the grinder touch the sheet metal 1/4"thick stones are ez to control and watch where they're grinding..BE PATIENT...
most new guys will warp it when grinding the weld.by getting it too hot and baring down too hard...I like using a grinding stone NOT a disc to get the weld down ,then I'll use a disc to pretty it up ...when your done you shouldnt see a seam there ...BEFORE the bondo....the last couple I did only needed two coats of ez sand putty ,no bondo at all....
the front of the 1/4 I use a butt weld (inside the jamb) where the 1/4 wraps around into the jamb and meets the first bend.
In the rear I weld to the taillight panel just like the factory did...plug welded instead of spot welded..
BUT...Thats only with an aftermarket 1/4 ...If I was doing a newer car or had a good used 1/4 I'd weld the whole thing on at the same places the factory did and not have any extra seams...The only reason I use a seam here is because the deck and door jamb aren't very good or accurate,and its very hard to get good gaps
If you absolutely need the jamb I'll cut them off and install the 1/4 the same way then use the jamb piece with a butt weld (inside the jamb),Its a lot easier than fighting it all day
So really theres three types of welding to do on a 1/4 ..Plug ,flange and butt...If your going to do a butt weld ,clamp a piece of copper behind the seam it'll help with warpage and make welding much easier with less burn throughs...
Full 1/4s are much better quality than those half 1/4s and the last two pair I got from Goodmark were about the best I've seen ,they seem to get better every year ...I wouldn't be surprised if in another five years they'll be just as good as the originals...
Sorry about the long post but theres a lot to know about welding a 1/4 on and still,i feel I've barely touched the surface....Just dont think that a half 1/4 for 100.00 will save you money..using a full 1/4 is the way to go,and they are about 5-600.00,....Well worth the extra expense,IMO

[freethinker52]

hi. I got my new full quarters from goodmark. I was going to use the new jambs but the new quarters have a large vent hole in the jamb and the old convert quarters do not. so rather than try to patch that hole I thought maybe I should try to use the old jamb. my old jambs are ruined at the first corner from quarter to jamb from the body line down so I need to wrap it around splice and butt weld it in. where would you cut it? on the first lip or the second lip where it is a little wider and easier to grind flat? how would you handle this? here are some pictures. thanks in advance.

[deadbodyman]

I usually cut mine at the first inside corner as you follow the skin around into the jamb.You'll need a die grinder for this cut,and be careful not to cut the reinforcement behind it...The angle makes it a good place for welding. When the time comes for grinding you'll need a 4 1/2" grinding Stone on a side grinder,works like a charm...
Before you cut your new 1/4 you should strip the old jamb to see how bad it really is....usually that bottom is patched and repatched or plugged with bondo...its always thin from all the grinding done over the years so use your new jamb for a nice patch ,try to steer clear from the striker if you can ,theres a million spot welds there and if you want it to look original they must stay there ...
HERES two little tricks that should help wit your Long ,main seam...
First...You'll need to use some good tin snips to make your final cut on the long seam so you'll have to clean up the back side of the 1/4 to get rid of the undercoating and other crap behind there
.I use a 4" grinding disc on my air grinder but I use two discs ,one facing the normal direction and the other facing you (back to back) you can slip the one facing you behind the 1/4 and grind the back side very easily this way. Be careful of the direction its turning you dont want the disc turning into the work ,the metal will cut the disc and pieces will fly off....have the side of the disc that turns away from the work do the grinding...It'll make more sense when it happens...
Second ; use some two inch tape and follow the crown of the top of the 1/4 then make your cut at the bottom of the tape it'll give you a nice ,even, two inch wide cut all the way down...cut your new 1/4 to the crown first then use a compass to scribe a line two inches down where you'll make your final cut...
Lay everything out with marker before you cut...I use silver on the new (black) 1/4,and black on the old stuff...


I was going to tell you about that reinforcement in the jamb and warn you to be looking for it when cutting so you wouldnt cut it off,you'll need it...
So far everything you've done looks just right. When it comes time for your first fit you'll have to remove the wheel well piece (I hope you didnt weld it yet) EVERYTHING must be held together with drill screws and completely assembled before any welding is done....
Fit the wheel well with the 1/4 screwed on, you'll see why...the first couple can be a nightmare.

[deadbodyman]

Heres a couple pics to help explain...

[freethinker52]

thanks. that helps. i have a plan now.

[freethinker52]

i got the right side on this weekend. everything is working good so far.

[deadbodyman]

Your weekend was a lot more productive than mine,,Its amazing how much debri ends up on the floor,isnt it?