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-   -   where to cut quarter panel? (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/where-cut-quarter-panel-185168.html)

freethinker52 09-28-2010 08:09 AM

where to cut quarter panel?
 
i am doing a 1970 gto convertable restoration that needs quarters. they do not make quarters for this car and useable used ones are impossible to find. the only option i have is to buy hardtop quarters and modify them to fit a convertable.
where is the best place to splice these quarters. near the top body line or in the center where it is flattest? i dont have the choice to cut along the center body line because it has had patch panels and there already is a repair seam right on the peak. thanks in advance.
here is a picture of the quarter:
http://www.tamrazsparts.com/product_...oducts_id=1280

302 Z28 09-28-2010 08:36 AM

Original Parts Group
Vince

freethinker52 09-28-2010 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 302 Z28

what are you trying to say? opgi does not have convertable quarters.

27 t 09-28-2010 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freethinker52
what are you trying to say? opgi does not have convertible quarters.

i think it has a listing for coup and convertible...

http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topc...5765&prodcode=

freethinker52 09-28-2010 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 27 t
i think it has a listing for coup and convertible...

http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topc...5765&prodcode=

yes. i saw those. those are just skins. i am rusted out along the jamb to fender corner. i dont think skins will give me enough metal so i figured it best to get a full quarter and cut to modify.

Jim Rockford 09-28-2010 01:30 PM

Not understanding what you are asking for, Those listed above are full quarters...it doesn't get more complete than that. Maybe post a pic of your problem area...

nanaimoBC 09-28-2010 01:44 PM

He wants the full qtr with door jamb that welds to the inner pinch weld...the convert one only has the lip that welds to the jamb...is my understanding.I would think you could use the full qrtr and cut it just below the pich weld where the convert top sits and use the full qrtr into where the trunk rubber sits and the corner glass this should keep your filling to a minimum. Just my opinion without actually looking at it

freethinker52 09-28-2010 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Rockford
Not understanding what you are asking for, Those listed above are full quarters...it doesn't get more complete than that. Maybe post a pic of your problem area...

i talked to opgi about those. they are not full quarters. they have no jambs and no sail panel. they also have no trunk edge so these have to be cut and spliced in also. i have talked to every sheet metal manufacturer that i know of and i cant find anybody that makes a full quarter for this car.
basically all i want to know is it best to cut close to a body line or is it better to cut in a wide flat area?

freethinker52 09-28-2010 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nanaimoBC
He wants the full qtr with door jamb that welds to the inner pinch weld...the convert one only has the lip that welds to the jamb...is my understanding.

this is corrrect. i have good original metal from the convert flange down to the center body line. i just want sombody experienced to suggest the best place for me to cut. thanks.

nanaimoBC 09-28-2010 01:56 PM

i would cut from the corner window around the convet top pinch weld and into the trunk seal lip and then using the old skin as a template trim the new one to a rough fit . This will retain 99% of the new panel and leave you with the smallest amount to but weld to avoid warping. so the only part of the old panne you will keep is the few inches arount that top lip where the convertable top sits....hope ive explained that right

Pontiac_Judas 09-29-2010 12:16 PM

I'd be very careful where you cut here. I know the listing says "coupe/convertible", but I have heard the area around the peak of the convertible (from about the wheel well up) has a very different shaped "bow" then the hardtop. They say you can "make it work", but you could make a flat sheet of cold-rolled steel work with enough effort.

I would definitely head over to performance years pontiac forum and look around because this type of question has come up there before.

Good luck!

freethinker52 09-29-2010 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pontiac_Judas
I'd be very careful where you cut here. I know the listing says "coupe/convertible", but I have heard the area around the peak of the convertible (from about the wheel well up) has a very different shaped "bow" then the hardtop. They say you can "make it work", but you could make a flat sheet of cold-rolled steel work with enough effort.

I would definitely head over to performance years pontiac forum and look around because this type of question has come up there before.

Good luck!

that is exactly the kind of information i am looking for. can you direct me to the information you are talking about? i am looking on that site but dont see it.

freethinker52 09-29-2010 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freethinker52
that is exactly the kind of information i am looking for. can you direct me to the information you are talking about? i am looking on that site but dont see it.

i found it thanks:
http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...el+convertable

Pontiac_Judas 09-30-2010 12:14 PM

Glad I could help!

deadbodyman 10-03-2010 07:54 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Even if you find te full 1/4s with the jambs all the edges of the jambs are way off (rounded not sharpe) so I dont use them ,I cut them off,unless the ones I have are so rusted I have to.I always try to get the full 1/4s because they are better quality than a patch skin...I've done a ton of these 1/4s and the best place to splice is two inches down fron the top edge,never the body line...its structurly more sound a good place to weld it'll keep the contour of the top line the same the new 1/4s you never know if its even close...I always flange the seam for added strength and less warpage when welding...heres some pics to help explain..there many reasons for why this is the best place to put the seam and there a lot more to know but this is how I do them....with great results...


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