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where to cut quarter panel?
i am doing a 1970 gto convertable restoration that needs quarters. they do not make quarters for this car and useable used ones are impossible to find. the only option i have is to buy hardtop quarters and modify them to fit a convertable.
where is the best place to splice these quarters. near the top body line or in the center where it is flattest? i dont have the choice to cut along the center body line because it has had patch panels and there already is a repair seam right on the peak. thanks in advance. here is a picture of the quarter: http://www.tamrazsparts.com/product_...oducts_id=1280 |
Original Parts Group
Vince |
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http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topc...5765&prodcode= |
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Not understanding what you are asking for, Those listed above are full quarters...it doesn't get more complete than that. Maybe post a pic of your problem area...
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He wants the full qtr with door jamb that welds to the inner pinch weld...the convert one only has the lip that welds to the jamb...is my understanding.I would think you could use the full qrtr and cut it just below the pich weld where the convert top sits and use the full qrtr into where the trunk rubber sits and the corner glass this should keep your filling to a minimum. Just my opinion without actually looking at it
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basically all i want to know is it best to cut close to a body line or is it better to cut in a wide flat area? |
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i would cut from the corner window around the convet top pinch weld and into the trunk seal lip and then using the old skin as a template trim the new one to a rough fit . This will retain 99% of the new panel and leave you with the smallest amount to but weld to avoid warping. so the only part of the old panne you will keep is the few inches arount that top lip where the convertable top sits....hope ive explained that right
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I'd be very careful where you cut here. I know the listing says "coupe/convertible", but I have heard the area around the peak of the convertible (from about the wheel well up) has a very different shaped "bow" then the hardtop. They say you can "make it work", but you could make a flat sheet of cold-rolled steel work with enough effort.
I would definitely head over to performance years pontiac forum and look around because this type of question has come up there before. Good luck! |
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http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...el+convertable |
Glad I could help!
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Even if you find te full 1/4s with the jambs all the edges of the jambs are way off (rounded not sharpe) so I dont use them ,I cut them off,unless the ones I have are so rusted I have to.I always try to get the full 1/4s because they are better quality than a patch skin...I've done a ton of these 1/4s and the best place to splice is two inches down fron the top edge,never the body line...its structurly more sound a good place to weld it'll keep the contour of the top line the same the new 1/4s you never know if its even close...I always flange the seam for added strength and less warpage when welding...heres some pics to help explain..there many reasons for why this is the best place to put the seam and there a lot more to know but this is how I do them....with great results...
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