[frankenstang57]

I'm just finishing up my buddy's '65 Caddy in time for Halloween. We swapped in a '69 472 in place of the 429. Anyway, it was 4 years ago when I originally removed the altenator. The former owner had cut all 4 of the wires from the reg. to the alt and butt spliced them back together. The wires are black, red, white, and blue. I know the black is the ground, and the blue/white wires plug into the alt. Where does the red wire go? It is pin #3 on the reg. The end of the wire is pulled out from the harness, and since we installed the 472 with HEI, I haven't the slightest idea. Thanx!

[docvette]

Doc here,

Try this:



That should be it...

Doc

[frankenstang57]

Thanx doc! I'll take a look in the AM. Next time maybe I should PM you first! Looks like you answer just about all the oddball elictrical posts!

[docvette]

Doc here,

Let us know what you find!

And ya..that's me...

I tend to think outside of the "Box"..
(which is where I usually tend to lose the instruction sheet..)

PM's are OK, but Post it here also...so maybe the next guy can help ... or learn something..

Doc

[frankenstang57]

H'OK doc, this is what it's doing. If I put power to that wire, the alt. will charge. I did take power from the horn relay, but it's hot all the time, so I guess it doesn't matter where the juice was coming from. While its charging, my multi meter is indicating between 13-15.7V. When I shut the ignition switch off, the GEN light comes on and the car continues to run. So I'm guessing it's backfeeding from or to something? Any sugestions? I'm thinking that 15v is way too high.For what it's worth, though I know it probably doen't make a difference, I'm using power from the wire that fed the coil when the ignition was on, to trigger a relay supplying juice to the HEI.

[docvette]

Doc here,

<---shakes his head to clear it..

OK first MOVE the HEI relay wire off the regulator to the fuse buss switched side..This is why it won't shut off with the key and the Alternator producing power..(I think..if it's Mallory you may also have to install a diode on that line)

Next move that red Alternator wire from the horn straight to the Battery terminal on the solenoid..(And don't forget to put a fusible link on it..)

14.4 volts is EXACTLY what your going for on charge..so that's working OK..

The reason you get a Gen light is because you shut off the rest of the system while the HEI and Charge circuit is still running..It thinks because the rest of the charge system is off..it must be a problem..and turns the light on..By moving those two should take care of that..

Doc

[frankenstang57]

OK first MOVE the HEI relay wire off the regulator to the fuse buss switched side..This is why it won't shut off with the key and the Alternator producing power

Actually, I ran power from the battery, through a circuit breaker, to supply power to the relay. I used the original + to the coil to trigger the relay. I've done this before in the past with no problems. None of my ignition wiring is tied into the alt.

Next move that red Alternator wire from the horn straight to the Battery terminal on the solenoid..(And don't forget to put a fusible link on it..)

Are you talking about the large red wire? I ran it to the battery directly. The horn relay just has one wire running to it, and is on the other side of the car. It does not appear to have a "T" into like the diagram. Do you think that the 15+ volts is a bit high? Thanx!

[docvette]

Originally Posted by frankenstang57

H'OK doc, this is what it's doing. If I put power to that wire, the alt. will charge. I did take power from the horn relay, but it's hot all the time, so I guess it doesn't matter where the juice was coming from. While its charging, my multi meter is indicating between 13-15.7V. When I shut the ignition switch off, the GEN light comes on and the car continues to run. So I'm guessing it's backfeeding from or to something? Any sugestions? I'm thinking that 15v is way too high.For what it's worth, though I know it probably doen't make a difference, I'm using power from the wire that fed the coil when the ignition was on, to trigger a relay supplying juice to the HEI.

Doc here,

The 12 volts from (or to) the alternator must be hot all the time (BIG RED WIRE) Direct battery or horn relay 12 volts, It MUST ALSO be isolated from the ignition source...(HEI Power)

The HEI power MUST be on the switched side of the fuse buss...(The BATT wire MUST shut off with the Key) If the HEI is on the hot at all times, It will (if it ever shuts off) Draw power 24/7 , run the battery flat, and burn up the module..


The perfect Output For an alternator on a proper draw system and full charged battery, is:14.4 volts..13.75 under load..and 11 volts and under if it is bad..given meter calibration and lead length, I'd say 15.7 is really 14.4..try a better meter.Properly Calibrated , new battery, DVOM is a good shot, If you have, or have access to one..

Doc

[frankenstang57]

Doc, gotta go outa town for work for a little while. I'll get back to you with some pix next week! Thanx for your help!

[docvette]

Doc here,

Kewl!

Have a safe trip , and let us know after you return!

Doc

[frankenstang57]

Ok, I'm back in black, literally... doc I have some pictures, maybe they will help. First off, here's a shot of the original wire(s) to the ignition coil I'm using as the trigger to the relay I'm running for the HEI. The wires broke when I untaped them. Since the guy who owns the car wants to put the 429 back in it, I'm trying not to hack up the wiring harness. I have a female spade connector on the wire running to the relay, not pictured.


Here's a shot of the regulator. The red wire terminal #3 is the one I have no idea where it needs to go.



And here's the back of the alt. You can see where the wire stops in the but splice.



Like I said, if I put power to it,(red wire) it will charge, the dash light goes out, but the car continues to run after the key is off. I know it worked before I tore into 4 years ago, I just can't remember. Or did I screw something up? Lemme know what you think. Thanx!

[docvette]

Doc here,

First off, I am assuming you HAD a points type ignition in the car to start with, and now HEI, BECAUSE that is NOT an HEI connector...

Hook up the Red wire to the Horn relay Red wire..and measure the power at the HEI (relay??? Dump that..wire it direct as Shown..)If you get 12 volts at the relay coil..You have A CROSS WIRE malfunction! Find what is energizing That relay and remove it...



You Should ONLY have power to the relay Coil, (and thereby extension) The HEI) when the KEY is on..You are getting 12 volts from the Charging circuit..(probably the Field Circuit ) To the relay coil...Abandond the whole relay Idea (at least for now, and unless your running the 1/4 and think you may be losing current at the high end) Find the wire That comes DIRECTLY from the RUN side of the Switch...That Yellow is Secondary Ignition (see Diagram)I would assume the Green wire SHOULD go back to the Ignition Switch.



That harness has already been hacked..Butt Splices on the Charging circuit, a relay where it really is not needed..You need to really Get a NEW connector, run 2 new wires to the Alternator, Remove that relay and Hook the HEI direct (AND NOWHERE ELSE) From the "Run" Side of the Ignition Switch to make it right...,AT the very least, isolate the switch run position hook it directly to the HEI and Remove anything else power related from that line, and hook the red to the horn relay.

Doc

[frankenstang57]

Hey doc, thanks for all the help. I figured it out. I ran a hot wire from the acc side of the ignition switch to the red wire on the reg. It works fine now! The butt slices are going away tommorrow and the wire from the alt. to the battery is new with soldered connections. I put in the relay to run the HEI because I've heard the older ignition switches couldn't handle the Amps. I guess I'm wrong. Thanks again for the help!