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Old 03-24-2011, 09:40 AM
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Where is EEC relay?

On my '89 5.0 Mustang trying to power up new fuel pump which tests good w/12 volts but no power when connected to harness. With ignition switch on tested inertia switch-no power.Tested fuel pump relay which is under driver seat. The orange/blue wire from starter relay has 12v. Tested the red wire going to the EEC relay while cranking-no power there. Next I pulled the passenger side kick panel and looked for the EEC relay which I thought would be mounted next to the computer. I did not see what I thought would be the relay. There are 4 connectors, but no relay. Shouldn't the relay be right there next to the computer, or did Ford mount it somewhere else?

Any input much appreciated.

Joe D

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Old 03-24-2011, 12:12 PM
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Hi
If it's not at the top of the computer held in by the top RH screw
It's probably under the fender mounted soleniod.
Rich
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:08 PM
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Where is EEC relay

Thanks for the input Richard. Since I posted, I came across a photo showing the relay mounted above the ECU. It was not visible when I took off the kick panel. From the photo I see that I probably will have to take off the heater blower box to get at it.

JoeD
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Old 03-24-2011, 06:28 PM
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Where is EEC relay

Now that I know where it is located, has anyone ever replaced one, and if so is there any way to get to it w/o removing blower housing and motor?

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Old 03-24-2011, 06:30 PM
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why do you need to replace it. Did you check for power at the coil etc.. with the key on?
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:58 PM
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i the relay is powered by a blue wire on the bat side of the solenoid and its a common problem for the connector to break.

i would start there to troubleshoot the relay

i have seen more than a few broken in this spot and it kills power to the ecu and makes troubleshooting a pia as its last stop on the checklist
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:08 AM
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Where is EEC relay

Latech: I was following advice from another source to work back from the fuel pump to the inertia switch to the fuel pump relay under the seat and then to the EEC relay. The only power I found was the orange/blue wire into the relay under the seat. It was my understanding that the fuel pump relay was fed through the EEC relay by a pulse from the ECU. I do have power at the red wire into the ignition coil with the key on. This is a car that sat idle for a few years until I decided to get it going again. While cleaning up in the engine area I accidently touched the pos bat cable to the neg cable. Got a big flash arc at the bat ground lug on the frame and lost all power to all circuits. Dropped the starter and it bench checked ok. Cleaned all the ground locations I could find and got power back to the starter. lights. power seats, etc. Put in a new fuel tank, pump sending unit thinking I had power to fuel pump. Keyed on but had no fuel pump prime noise. At this point started from pump forward to find problem. Bench checked the fuel pump and it was good.

Last edited by Joerod; 03-25-2011 at 09:25 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:48 AM
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Well if you have power ot the coil with the key on then the EEC 4 relay is powering up.
The fuel pump relay will power the fuel pump circuit for 2-3 seconds when the key is first turned on to prime the system then will turn on amd run continous when the motor starts.
If you have power on both sides of the inertia switch with key on then you should have power to the COIL side of the FP relay.
The ground is controled by the pcm, and a ground connector is present at the self test output connector. The wire color is tan with green tracer. With the key on if you ground the tan with green you should be able to hear the FP relay click on.
The power for the switched side of the realy comes in on the orange with light blue and should always be hot , it comes from a brown fuse link out by the Starter solenoid.

Last edited by latech; 03-25-2011 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:17 PM
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Where is EEC relay

Thanks for the input latech. I had to pull off the Mustang today after my wife called saying the clothes washer flooded the utility room. Now that a new cycle pump fixed that I'm back on the car.
I do have power with the key on at the red/g Ignition coil wire. Do have power at the orange/b at the f.p. relay. Do not have power at the inertia switch with key on. When cranking I do not have power at the Tan/g, Red/b, Pink/b at the f.p. relay
Where should I look for the self test connector with the Tan/g ground wire?
I'm thinking it's on the driver's side inner fender area near the starter solenoid.
Your help is appreciated.


JoeD
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joerod
Thanks for the input latech. I had to pull off the Mustang today after my wife called saying the clothes washer flooded the utility room. Now that a new cycle pump fixed that I'm back on the car.
I do have power with the key on at the red/g Ignition coil wire. Do have power at the orange/b at the f.p. relay. Do not have power at the inertia switch with key on. When cranking I do not have power at the Tan/g, Red/b, Pink/b at the f.p. relay
Where should I look for the self test connector with the Tan/g ground wire?
I'm thinking it's on the driver's side inner fender area near the starter solenoid.
Your help is appreciated.


JoeD
If you are sure there is no power at the inertia switch then you have an open circuit between the eec 4 relay power out and the power in at the inertia switch.
The tan with green wire that is T" d to the ground circuit of the pump relay coil (also goes to pcm for control of said ground when engine is running) is at the self test output connector (fords description for the aldl or diagnostic link)
That connecter will have a rectangle shape holder it clips into that keeps it in place under the hood.You will see it probably next to the battery and it will say EEC-Test on it. That is where a scanner hooks to so as to perform diagnostics and code retrieval,reading live data stream where applicable, and cycling the ecm to perform output tests like cooling fan circuit and other various tests.Of course you need a star tester or the snap on mt 2500 or similar to do so.
I would say your problem is no power through the inertia switch to the FP relay coil.Grounding the coil wont make the circuit work anyhowat this point,you will have to trace the wiring back from the inertia switch to the point where it goes to the connection that is common with the eec 4 relay as the switch is powered from it when it is on. The fact you have power to the coil tells me the eec 4 relay is working and powering up its loads, but not reaching the inertia switch.Double check it at this point to be sure.I think the test light may have had a bad ground while testing.when you test the power at the inertia , verify that the light will light when probing as you may not have a good spot to ground it to back at the switch.If it turns out that you indeed have no power to the I switch then pull panels and carpet and head in the direction of the source.The connector that splits of to it comes from under or near the drivers seat by the FP relay so maybe start there .It could be unplugged or corroded being under the seat.Maybe water got in the car at one time and soaked the carpet wich could jump start the corrosion process.Or it is simply just not plugged in.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:47 AM
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Where is EEC relay

Storms and tornadoes here in Alabama today so won't be able to get outside to get f.p. working.
Made up 6ft of 12ga wire with alligator clips and found a good place to ground on the sub frame where the fuel tank mounts. With a good ground checked out the inertia switch for power. It has maybe 1 or 2 volts on my digital meter.
About the EEC relay to the computer. I have a picture of it wired up above the computer. With the passenger seat out and the kick panel removed I can not visually see the relay. The heater blower motor housing blocks the view and I can't even feel for it. Took a look at the housing to see if it could be separated from the air inlet duct assembly. Do you recall from experience if access to the relay can be had by removing the housing?
Thanks again for the help.


Joe D
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:49 AM
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I dont recall if that is where it is.You should be able to hear it click on and off when you turn the key on and off. Have someone turn the key on and off for you as you look around for the clicking relay.
1-2 volts at the inertia switch indicates to me a bad/corroded connection.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:22 AM
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Where is the EEC relay?

I think I have found the problem. I had a 20ga blue wire at the starter solenoid that was not connected to the hot side of the SS Solenoid/Relay. Hooked it up and got a click out of both the fp relay and the EEC relay. Connected the fuel tank and with the key on listened for the motor; it came on!

Thanks to everyone for your help. Latech the schematic references were a big help. The Chilton manual schematic did not show the blue wire, which threw me off. I thought it went somewhere else.


Joe D
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