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Old 04-27-2011, 03:01 AM
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where to put my temp sensor for my electic fan?

I added an electric fan to my car. I have a 195F thermostat and the thermostat of the electric fan kicks on at 200F and turns off at 185F.



I now added the sensor to the thermostat housing (See pic).

My engine is still running to cool on the highways, only 150-160F. I think this is caused by the heater return hose being connected directly to the radiator and not the waterpump. I am gonna change this connection to the waterpump.

This will solve the problem of cooling caused by the heater return, but I am afraid my electric fan will turn on and never turn off, because the thermostat will keep the engine at 195F...So I am thinking about moving the e-fan sensor to a different spot.

what would be better?
- I could use the place where a (not used) temp-switch now sits in the manifold?



or
- maybe use the flush connection on the bottom of the rad on the driverside? will it even fit in there?

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Old 04-27-2011, 04:20 AM
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I mounted mine in the brass radiator. May not help you.


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Old 04-27-2011, 05:18 AM
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On most of the FWD cars I've had, the fan temp sensor was in the radiator, and that may be the best choice for the type of sensor you have. My SBC radiator has an extra fitting that looks like its for a temp sensor, but I've never checked to see if it would work.

I'm surprised that highway temps are at 150-160. I have a 195 degree high flow thermostat in my SBC, and it also has the heater return hose running to the radiator. During the winter when we had temps around 25-30 degrees Fahrenheit my engine temp ran at about 185-190 on the highway.

Bruce
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:34 AM
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On my last car I mounted the sender in the radiator, the current car is in the water outlet - and both places worked just fine and turned on the fan at the right temp, 180 in the first and 195 now. I would pull the thermostat to check it for correct operation at this point - or just replace it when you fix that oil leak in the front of the intake

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Old 04-27-2011, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
On most of the FWD cars I've had, the fan temp sensor was in the radiator, and that may be the best choice for the type of sensor you have. My SBC radiator has an extra fitting that looks like its for a temp sensor, but I've never checked to see if it would work.

I'm surprised that highway temps are at 150-160. I have a 195 degree high flow thermostat in my SBC, and it also has the heater return hose running to the radiator. During the winter when we had temps around 25-30 degrees Fahrenheit my engine temp ran at about 185-190 on the highway.

Bruce
hi, I think it is caused with my setup because I have a LPG evaporator parallel to the heater core. Therefor there is a constant flow of coolant through the evaporator and thus hot water going to the passenger side of the rad, which will cool it down when driving.

I know my temp-guage is working just fine, because as soon as I stop for a traffic light the temp will go up and when it hits 200F the fan kick in, which I can see, because I also connected a green LED in the dash to know when it is running or not. (just to be sure).

that is why I want to move the hose to the waterpump.

I have no fittin in the rad though, besides the drain plug, but I dont know if it will fit the drain plug.

anybody know what size that is? and is it a good place? it is on the bottom driver side of the rad.

@Clay: thanks for the pictures, but I hope I dont have to make a connection myself. I would like to use the existing connections. Hopefully the drain plug will fit???
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:59 AM
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i put my temp sensor in the lower radiator hose.

my thoughts on this were:
let the radiator do it's job, if the coolant coming out is hot, then turn the fan on.

i used a short piece of 1.5'' ss exhaust tubing (maybe 2'', what ever the lower hose is)
welded half a 3/8 ss coupling in it and a 10-24 stud for a ground wire.

bought the coupling on ebay cheap
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikkegek
hi, I think it is caused with my setup because I have a LPG evaporator parallel to the heater core. Therefor there is a constant flow of coolant through the evaporator and thus hot water going to the passenger side of the rad, which will cool it down when driving.
The heater hose routing is NOT making a difference.
This is the way the factory routed hoses on several vehicles
(Like my Chevy pick-up)

The coolant coming from the heater is going into the side of the radiator that has already been cooled down---so if anything, it might be raising the temps just a hair. (unless the heater fan is on---not much cooling being done in the heater)

Going into the passenger side the coolant is not gonna get any cooler at all.

Personally---I like my cars to run a bit warmer, 200* does not bother me in the least.

The dual fans in my 59 Elky come on at 225 and off at around 210, but for the most part, the car runs at 185-190 while the car is in motion.
The fans only come on in heavy traffic or if the AC is running.

Guess I should mention-----both the temp sending unit and the fan switch are in the manifold. You should not get much difference in the readings with your switch mounted in the T-stat housing.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
The heater hose routing is NOT making a difference.
This is the way the factory routed hoses on several vehicles
(Like my Chevy pick-up)

The coolant coming from the heater is going into the side of the radiator that has already been cooled down---so if anything, it might be raising the temps just a hair. (unless the heater fan is on---not much cooling being done in the heater)

Going into the passenger side the coolant is not gonna get any cooler at all.

Personally---I like my cars to run a bit warmer, 200* does not bother me in the least.

The dual fans in my 59 Elky come on at 225 and off at around 210, but for the most part, the car runs at 185-190 while the car is in motion.
The fans only come on in heavy traffic or if the AC is running.

Guess I should mention-----both the temp sending unit and the fan switch are in the manifold. You should not get much difference in the readings with your switch mounted in the T-stat housing.
Hi Bryan,

I know 99% for sure that the return hose of my heater core is causing cooling through its radiator connection.

I know this because when I drive on the highway or through town (about 30mphin the Netherlands) my engine temp will drop to 150F...then when I stop for a traffic light, the engine temp will go over 200F and t he fan will kick on.

I have a evaporator for LPG connected parallel to the heater core. This takes only a very small amount of heat, but a lot of water is pumped through. This water all comes into the passenger side of the radiator, which is cold from being cooled by driving wind passing through the rad.

I am 99% sure that when I move my heater return hose to the waterpump connection, that my highway and cruising temp will go up to the thermostats set temperature, being 195F. Because even on long stretches (over 100 miles) my engine never goes over 150-160F....which is in my opinion much too cold for a SBC350. And the LPG I run is even supposed to burn hotter then regular fuel.

As for the temp sensor. I think I am gonna move it from the thermostat housing to where the vacuum-temp-switch now sits. I think I will get a little better reading there.

I would like to move it to the radiator, but my radiator doesnt provide for one. So I'll try the manifold for now...

I'll be back!
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