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Old 08-29-2008, 06:29 PM
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where should a 460 be in the frame?

ok.after moving the mtr mounts 3 times i finally got the 460/c6/driveshaft/pinion angle correct.(last time i had to cut and reweld the mtr mounts, the angles were set but when i tried to put the driveshaft in the trans was too close to the rear axle...grrrrr) So now its all in. the body is placed in position to place where the pedal will go.I noticed while sitting in the car on a makeshift seat,seeing where the steering wheel will be and the pedals that i dont have hardly any room and i am 5'6"!i need to move the mtr forward more!!!! I dont even have room for a firewall as the mtr is sunken into the body so much.
So here is the question...with a 34 ford coupe frame,and a stock 1969 lincoln 460 mtr, what part of the engine is over the ctr of the front crossmember? Is there a general dimension from front axle to say middle of engine?presently i have the fan blades behind the front cross member. somebody help as i am going one step forward and two steps backwards with the build..I am 58 yrs old and i am afaid i will be too old to drive before it is done!!
I work all weekends and 6-7 days everyweek till 7pm so getting out to a cruise night is almost non existant to try and see other cars.

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Old 08-29-2008, 06:56 PM
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On one of those I would go no more than 10% setback as measured from the #1 sparkplug to the center line of the front spindles..should then be plenty of room in the car..check your sheet metal to see that it all works out ok..

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Old 08-29-2008, 07:35 PM
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older pic from your gallery; is this sort of where the motor is now? If so, it not in the right spot.....way too far back.

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Old 08-30-2008, 01:15 PM
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I know you're not gonna want to hear this, but in my opinion you need more wheelbase. I was faced with the same problem when I built my T using a 429/C6. I figured out early on that in order for everything to work and for the car to have visually pleasing lines (radiator in the center of the tire from a side view), I'd have to start with a longer wheelbase. I built my own frame from 2 X 6 X 0.120" wall and the wheelbase ended up at 117". This allowed for all-stock components on the front of the motor (engine-driven fan, 7-blade X 18", thermostatic fan clutch and full shroud along with a Walker copper/brass radiator) and plenty of clearance between the back of the motor and the stock firewall position.

I'd go back to square one (don't worry about your age, I was 56 when I started this one) and mock up the firewall in the stock position. Then determine how much you'll have to extend the frame rails to make it all work. Hey, this ain't no small block Chevy, pardner. You may be getting an idea of why you don't see too many Lima motors in these early cars.
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Old 08-30-2008, 05:04 PM
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460 where it goes

ok yes that is the pic but the body is back a tad now(the rear tire is centered in the body rear fender curvature) this still puts the front edge of the fan just at the rear edge of the top of front cross member (right at the part of the front spring u bolt where it goes down through the cross member) I figure i have about three inches to move forward till it is up to the radiator (if the radiator is mounted using the stock mount holes)
now i read that the wheel base for a 34 is 112"...jeez i'd hate to make it longer...looking at that pic it would make it look too long in the nose..for a T it is a bit diff i think...as your right the radiator should be at the front wheel...
.i have an electric fan(slim) that could allow to maybe take the stock fan off and move it up a bit more. I have to say that this is a very very low buck project...so just going out and buying a bunch of parts is out of the question...so any of your help with that in mind would be greatly appreciated....( i am hoping to complete this under $3500...so far its at $1500)
Thanks for the info OMT...so 11.2" back is max is 10%...I'll try to get to it asap..got a 7 day work week this week...first i'll hang mtr/trans with w/ mtr hoist, cut mtr mounts , then move forward. see what i can come up with...now i have at least 5 "how to" hotrod books and not one of them mentioned this dimension......

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Old 09-04-2008, 08:08 PM
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where 460 in frame

i moved the motor forward with a hoist...when the fan blades are where the radiator should be then it is about 10 inches(first plug to ctr of king pin).. an electric water pump is 2 1/2 inches shorter than the stocker...i may go that route and use a thin electric fan or find a fan blade that is closer to the mounting flange than the stocker (stocker has the clutch and a short extension before its mounting flange) and use the origional pump.....
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:20 PM
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Welcome to the world of rod building..I have no idea of how many times I have had to juggle things around in order to get everything to fit and work..Sounds like a good progress to me...you may have to spend a couple of bucks for parts before you are done but it will be well worth it..

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Old 09-05-2008, 12:44 PM
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I am going with techinspector. These cars were originally built for the SBC even thought it had not been invented yet. Even with that, short waterpumps, stacked accessory drives, sunken fire wall, electric fans are required and still NO legroom. I have seen some enterprising (read low buck) builds with sbc that required frame stretch. Lose the bbf (or bff) or steetch the frame. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:20 PM
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"an electric water pump is 2 1/2 inches shorter than the stocker...i may go that route"

I think you're asking for trouble. Extend the frame rails and do the right thing with an engine-driven water pump and 7-blade, 18" engine-driven OEM fan with thermostatic fan clutch and full shroud. Do it right the first time or you'll be fooling with cooling problems the rest of the time you own this car and you'll grow to hate it. Been there, done that.
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Old 09-05-2008, 06:32 PM
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460 where in the frame

yeah i think i'll stretch the frame..would you suggest stretching the frame in the front to move the radiator forward or in the middle to move the body back away from the engine?.i may have to cut the oil pan and reverse it around to put the sump in the back..(instead of buying one)
yeah a SBC would be nice but so would having the money to get one. To be honest I have no money to do a hotrod , but I continue to strive on with what I have.My hotrod fund is 20-40 bucks a week put aside when i can ..With only 1500 invested so far I am still doing ok...I have most of what i need. Just need the time and correct information to do it.
I also am almost ready to start making a mold of the dashboard...i took the stocker and added a lower curve similar to a 32 Ford...once that is done ill make up a fiberglass dash.
Oh ,what should I torque the std trans flywheel bolts to..I am taking the c6 off and putting in its place a toploader that I have had kicking around for about 15 yrs...
thanks to al who have contributed their thoughts...it is MOST appreciated...
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Old 09-07-2008, 05:58 PM
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I'd splice the frame rails at their straightest point, probably just rear of the firewall.

Whack the front clip off. Position the body so that the rear tires will be properly positioned in the wheel wells. Mock up the front clip in place (with whatever gap there is between the rear part of the frame and the beginning of the front clip). Mount the motor complete with all accessories on the front of it and the radiator mounted appropriately at the front axle. Use 11 ga. channel or rectangular box material to fill in the gap and fish-plate it for strength.
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