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Old 04-13-2005, 12:52 PM
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where to start with body work?

I've been lurking for some time now, and I've got quite a collection of articles and how-to's from various members on this board...
I am working out the finishing touches on the chassis of my 65 chevelle, (back half kit, narrowed 9" tko600, 454 etc all finished) and now it is time to move on to body work... ugg.

I know that I need to do the following before painting the car:
1. Remove ALL 4 layers of earl scheib paint and any filler that I may find
2. replace the passenger 1/4 (it was side swiped and the PO slapped on a factory 1/4, which he lapped over 3" to the old one, brazed, and filled with a 3/16" thick glob of filler)
3. cut out what remains of the original rear floor/ trunk area and fab up new floors/ tubs
4. massage any low/ high spots out of the body ( I would like to do this myself, with instructional help from the pannel beaters)

Luckily, the car sat as a drag racing relic from the early 70's in a heated basement, so there is minimal rust repair needed, and I have obtained a complete used 1/4 from a west coast car (rust free)

with all of this to complete, I am not sure what order to do them in... I want to plan this out right, so that I don't end up doing things 2x.
For a project that is obviously going to take some time, can anyone make some suggestions as to what to do when?
thanks,
pat

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Old 04-13-2005, 02:13 PM
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If it was me I would concentrate on stripping the car first. Then spray a good coat of epoxy primer to protect the bare metal. Once that's done you can start replacing the quarter and doing any other work that needs to be done.

Good luck.
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Old 04-14-2005, 07:32 AM
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My advice,
Get used to hearing this,

"It's JUST a drag car,Why you doing all that?"
Like Centerline said,
Get it sanded down first and you will be surprised at how much extra work you have that you didn't see under the old paint.
Epoxy it and get on with the welding.
I'd do the tub work after painting as you don't want any overspray on that pretty aluminum.
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Old 04-14-2005, 03:32 PM
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maybe concentrate on stripping and priming one panel at a time so you don't get overwhelmed. also if you get pulled away from the car for a few days or weeks , you won't have several panels in bare metal exposed to the elements.
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Old 04-14-2005, 04:00 PM
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Yep, I'd have to agree with everyone above. Strip it down section by section, get that metal really clean and shoot a good couple coats of epoxy on the stripped sections as you go along to protect the bare metal that doesn't need any hardcore work. I call it a "working coat" because it's protecting the metal while your bodywork is still progressing, it will get sanded down again anyway for a couple final coats when your bodywork is done.

This will allow you to concentrate on welding in new patch panels without having to worry about the sections you worked so hard to strip from rusting all the time. When all the patch panels are welded up, any hammer and dolly work is done and the body is basically finished, you can shoot the whole car with epoxy and start block sanding it.

If you need filler, I would probably use it before you shoot the final coat(s) of primer, maybe use it over your working coat of primer or over bare metal. The reason for this is that the final coat of epoxy will seal the filler and really give you a good foundation for your bc/cc.

This is exactly how I'm building my car at the moment and it's working out perfectly.

Rich
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Old 04-15-2005, 06:00 AM
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Sounds like a plan to me..
Since I have access to a paint booth, I may get the whole tub blasted, and shoot it with an etch that evening. The doors, and hood can wait.
I know a reputable guy who will do the whole shell for $250... Id rather not pay for sandblasting, but I did it one time myself and it is no fun at all. (especially since I don't have all of the proper safety equipment.)

Does anyone have pictures of how to lead or epoxy in the roof seam at the sail panel? I know there is a big debate over body solder/plastic, and I haven't yet decided which to use. Once the blasting is done, I think I will attack the full 1/4 first.

When I remove the 1/4, I will have the body bolted to the chassis... Should I do any more bracing of the body to prevent it from "springing" or flexing? is there a common method for replacing a full factory quarter?

ahh.... to the search button.

Pat
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Old 04-15-2005, 07:30 AM
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Pat,
SKIP the etch and just shoot epoxy.

You should read more here.
We have plenty of post's about the perils of using etch under epoxy.
Besides, It's just MORE work,Which I'm sure you want.
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Old 04-15-2005, 07:38 AM
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Yep, skip the etch, it kind of defeats the purpose of using epoxy at all.

Rich
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Old 04-15-2005, 03:12 PM
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noob.
yes indeed i should read more on the HRBB
I copied the whole "paint FAQ" yesterday, but havent had a chance to dear through it yet.
Im too busy lurking on the pirate 4x4 board, trying to get my 72 scout on the road, or off the road i should say.
pat
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