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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixshooter45 View Post
I completely agree, it really makes no sense to build a stout high HP motor and then choke it down with crappy headers. From some research I have done some folks are running these on 49-54 chevy's like mine with no issues at all...


Small Block Chevy 1935-48 Fat Fenderwell Headers, Plain - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop


Only thing is, they have 1 5/8 primaries and oval ports, I'm just wondering if these would be kosher with the square port AFR heads or not? I was worried the primaries may be a little small and cover some of the exhaust port but I have no idea. Any ideas?
Call AFR and explain your situation. I'll bet they've answered this question more than once.
Air Flow Research
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 08:48 PM
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call Jere Stahl about headers and or flanges. if the tubes are short,maybe use 1 5/8 tubes,if the tubes are long,maybe use 1 3/4
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 08:53 PM
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Thank you both for the advice. I'm thinking dual 2.5" pipes with a H or X would be more than adequate for this engine, right?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2013, 12:36 PM
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Sounds strong! I'd recommend using larger primaries that do not intrude into the port outlet at all (or is minor enough that they can be clearanced using a die grinder).

In the past I've struggled to fit headers to ports that required me to build up the header OD w/weld, then grind to fit. This is a royal pain in the *** and can invite cracks to form. And it's not like this build cannot use a bigger primary than 1-5/8", either. BTW, be sure the header gasket doesn't intrude into the port either. I've seen some gasket material withstand the heat and flames and remain blocking the port after many miles, so don't depend on the gasket burning away by itself.

Congrats on 10K, TI!

Last edited by cobalt327; 06-04-2013 at 12:43 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2013, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Sounds strong! I'd recommend using larger primaries that do not intrude into the port outlet at all (or is minor enough that they can be clearanced using a die grinder).

In the past I've struggled to fit headers to ports that required me to build up the header OD w/weld, then grind to fit. This is a royal pain in the *** and can invite cracks to form. And it's not like this build cannot use a bigger primary than 1-5/8", either. BTW, be sure the header gasket doesn't intrude into the port either. I've seen some gasket material withstand the heat and flames and remain blocking the port after many miles, so don't depend on the gasket burning away by itself.

Congrats on 10K, TI!



Cobalt327, thank you for the advice. I really wish I could find this style header with a 1 3/4 primary, I'm just not coming up with anything. You can find them for tri-fives, but I hear they are a real pain to make work on these cars.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 02:09 PM
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Well I got the cam, lifters, full roller rockers, and proper length pushrods ordered. I also got a Howard's steel cam button as well (part 95470). My question is, can I use the thin stamped timing cover that I have with no modification? From my searching it seems some say its fine and others say to get a different cover or stiffen the stamped one. Any Ideas?
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixshooter45 View Post
My question is, can I use the thin stamped timing cover that I have with no modification? From my searching it seems some say its fine and others say to get a different cover or stiffen the stamped one. Any Ideas?
In the past, I have welded in a small piece of 1/8" thick steel to stiffen the cover and give the button something to ride on. Without welding in a plate, the material is too thin and will give. Never got around to using one of the 2-piece covers with integral button adjustment and the ability to change cam phasing easily......
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-221/overview/

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:02 PM
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Thank you Tech. I think I may go that route then, would be easy to do and best of all, it's free! Those 2 piece covers are nice, but I'm all about modifying something to work when possible. And another dumb question, does the button just occasionally bump the cover, or actually ride on it constantly? It seems if there was no end play, the steel button contacting the steel cover would destroy it in no time. What am I missing here? lol
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:09 PM
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do you have a "steel" button?
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:16 PM
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do you have a "steel" button?
Yes sir. It's a Howards 94570.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:20 PM
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Cam Button Spacer, Steel, Roller, .800 in. Length, Chevy, Small Block,

thats not a solid cam button.
there is also an aluminum solid button(no bearing)
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
Cam Button Spacer, Steel, Roller, .800 in. Length, Chevy, Small Block,

thats not a solid cam button.
there is also an aluminum solid button(no bearing)
Lol, I'm a little bit confused, are you saying this is not the one I need?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:40 PM
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the cam button you have has a roller bearing,no worries about drilling a hole in the cover
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
the cam button you have has a roller bearing,no worries about drilling a hole in the cover
Ahhhh, I got ya now. Thanks for clearing that up for me But, I should still reinforce the stock cover as Tech suggested correct?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:54 PM
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never hurts to reinforce.I would do it
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