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Old 07-04-2012, 07:44 PM
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why is this car overheating

a buddy of mines has a 89 camaro with a rebuilt sbc motor out if a 94 chevy truck. i dont know the specs on the motor but he can not run it with a thermostat because it will not open and he has tried 6 or 7. without a t-stat in it it still runs really worm the motor has the original serpentine belt setup. the antifreeze seems to flow out the fines in the radiator the right direction but if he installs a t-stat. we thought i they may have used the wrong water pump because it do use a reverse flow water pump but with the rad cap off it looks to be flowing in the right direction out the fines. he as a summit or griffin 2 row rad with a derale dual fan set up. the other day when the temp hit 104 down hear in georgia he couldnt drive it engine temp got up to 245 with both fans on at highway speed.

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Old 07-04-2012, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacman350 View Post
a buddy of mines has a 89 camaro with a rebuilt sbc motor out if a 94 chevy truck. i dont know the specs on the motor but he can not run it with a thermostat because it will not open and he has tried 6 or 7. without a t-stat in it it still runs really worm the motor has the original serpentine belt setup. the antifreeze seems to flow out the fines in the radiator the right direction but if he installs a t-stat. we thought i they may have used the wrong water pump because it do use a reverse flow water pump but with the rad cap off it looks to be flowing in the right direction out the fines. he as a summit or griffin 2 row rad with a derale dual fan set up. the other day when the temp hit 104 down hear in georgia he couldnt drive it engine temp got up to 245 with both fans on at highway speed.
make sure the airdam is on the front of the car and not damaged.

the 3rdgeneration f-bodys are bottom feeders they pick up just about all the air that goes threw the radiator from the bottom.

if the car has ac make sure that there arent leaves packed inbetween the radiator and ac condensor

most overheating issues on the f-bodys can be cured with those 2 things.

also if he is relying on a factory gauge for the readings go buy a mechanical gauge and test it with that. the factory gauges have been known to read way off
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:56 PM
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I'm not surprised it runs warm without a thermostat, coolant isn't staying in the radiator long enough for it to do it's job...it's passing straight through and back into the motor. He needs a thermostat. Are you sure it's not installed upside down, and did he burp the system to remove any air locks?
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacman350 View Post
a buddy of mines has a 89 camaro with a rebuilt sbc motor out if a 94 chevy truck. i dont know the specs on the motor but he can not run it with a thermostat because it will not open and he has tried 6 or 7. without a t-stat in it it still runs really worm the motor has the original serpentine belt setup. the antifreeze seems to flow out the fines in the radiator the right direction but if he installs a t-stat. we thought i they may have used the wrong water pump because it do use a reverse flow water pump but with the rad cap off it looks to be flowing in the right direction out the fines. he as a summit or griffin 2 row rad with a derale dual fan set up. the other day when the temp hit 104 down hear in georgia he couldnt drive it engine temp got up to 245 with both fans on at highway speed.
It uses a reverse rotation (CCW as viewed from the front of the engine) water pump, not reverse flow. Same direction of water flow, but the pump turns "backwards" because of the serpentine belt.

A standard (CW) rotation pump will still pump water if turned CCW, just not efficiently, and the loss of efficiency is increased w/the speed the pump is turning.

I would strongly advise you to be positive the correct pump is on the engine before chasing your tail.


Quote:
...coolant isn't staying in the radiator long enough for it to do it's job...
Using the same logic, the coolant would also be passing through the engine too fast to pick up heat in the first place, but the coolant is at 245º F (at least by his gauge).

From here (in part):

Quote:
A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot spots", which can lead to failures.
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:34 PM
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dats what i told to make sure it was the right pump for that engine, and if it is the wrong pump will it flow out the fins in the radiator when you look in it with the cap off. every time he installs a thermostat it will run hot very quickly just idling in the yard and he had removed the air dam awhile ago trying to get more air in to the radiator but he said he was going to put it back on. he has had dis problem for about 3 years since they put the motor in but the original 305 that was in it ran at about to 225 all while it was in.
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pacman350 View Post
dats what i told to make sure it was the right pump for that engine, and if it is the wrong pump will it flow out the fins in the radiator when you look in it with the cap off. every time he installs a thermostat it will run hot very quickly just idling in the yard and he had removed the air dam awhile ago trying to get more air in to the radiator but he said he was going to put it back on. he has had dis problem for about 3 years since they put the motor in but the original 305 that was in it ran at about to 225 all while it was in.
he is using a mech temp guage
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:41 PM
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Check timing also replace rad cap check to see if the fans are turning in the right direction check idler pulley bearing if it frozen that will affect it and as another member wrote check condensor for mud and leaves oh do the fans have the correct shroud.

What I did on my truck is I put on a high volume water pump due to I have underdrive pulleys and I tell you the water pump sure does flow much better and last make sure rad isn't plugged up. I remembered this one make sure upper rad hose is lower than rad cap.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCTRUCKS View Post
I remembered this one make sure upper rad hose is lower than rad cap.
Not possible on 3rd gens, the upper hose is moulded to go over the aircon pump.
I´ve never had any trouble getting the air out of mine though.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCTRUCKS View Post
Check timing also replace rad cap check to see if the fans are turning in the right direction check idler pulley bearing if it frozen that will affect it and as another member wrote check condensor for mud and leaves oh do the fans have the correct shroud.

What I did on my truck is I put on a high volume water pump due to I have underdrive pulleys and I tell you the water pump sure does flow much better and last make sure rad isn't plugged up. I remembered this one make sure upper rad hose is lower than rad cap.
the dual fan setup that he has actually covers the whole radiator core and are wired to be a puller. the a/c compressor been gone and replaced with a a/c delete pulley and condenser was removed when engine was installed..
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:13 PM
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I made sure when modifying my car that all the air was going through the rad by blocking off the sides.

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Old 07-05-2012, 02:20 PM
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[QUOTE=malc;1571133]I made sure when modifying my car that all the air was going through the rad by blocking off the sides.

[/Q

thank for the pics i will pass them on to him so he can get look at dat. what motor do you have in your because i dont know the specs on his but it was blue printed by his builder for about 475 hp.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:23 PM
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