Why not use a full floating dana 60? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:09 AM
adam83's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 31
Posts: 220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Why not use a full floating dana 60?

I'm searching for a dodge truck dana 60, or a 8.75" for my 71 charger. My goal is a streetable 10 sec charger. I found a guy to set my rearend up (once I find one) and he recommended a 8.75 or dana 60. I've never fooled around with differentials before.. so Ive been researching. I know the main differences between the semi floating and full floating differentials, and since Im on a budget I think the semi floating D60 is not an option. I am confused though, why is a semi floating more desirable than a full floating? Is it because the ff is heavier? Is it because of nostalgia? What is better for racing a heavy car? in other words, which is better for high torque, high hp, a heavy car and heavy abuse? Its safe to assume the car will have a big block, it will definitely have an automatic, mini tub, full interior and a roll cage. Im still planning my build, but I have a budget of about $1600 for the rear. I think I can pick up a truck dana 60 for under $150, and use the rest to build the rear, but I dont know which rear is best to start with.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:59 AM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,046
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 411 Times in 354 Posts
A full floating Dana 60 is very heavy. They are built for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and have huge brakes and hubs. The axles are also 30 spline in many cases instead of the 35 spline axles used in high performance Dana 60s. The semi floating axles are the way to go in a high performance car, unless you want to spend the money on all of the light weight oval track parts. I don't see why you think the semi floating axles are going to be more expensive. There are much fewer parts in the semi floating axles and the parts are cheaper. When you buy a truck Dana 60 you sould consider the housing the only usable part and everything esle will be replaced, including the housing ends.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:17 AM
33Willys77's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 57 Times in 55 Posts
I used a truck (3/4 ton) dana 60 for my car. I cut the housing ends off and put on 8 3/4 ends and a universal disc brake setup. I had Moser make up some axles and I was all set to go. It's not very hard, but I have also done many.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 08:33 AM
kso kso is offline
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 29 Times in 28 Posts
These guys are right...know that truck rear ends are made strong for where they want durability, not strong for drag strip launches, and beyond the basic center section there's nothing in a full-float rear end that will help you including the 30-spline axles which are the same as in an 8.5 Dana 44. Also the bolt circle cannot be made smaller, and the weight is stunning.

There are a few '70's Dodge pickup truck rear ends around that are Dana 60 semi-float...I couldn't tell you which axle spline...the axles are shaped so they can't be narrowed but it might be something to research.

If it were me and I were really wanted to stick with Chrysler stuff I would do the D60 housing end swap to semi-float, figure on Moser or other for axles, and make your decision be whether to step up to 35 spline internals or not, which may be the budget-buster for you.

Curry Enterprises in Corona CA used to sell complete units (full-float D60 rears converted to 35-spline semi-float) but I don't see an obvious listing on their site.

If you were open to other makes and since you are considering also an 8 3/4 which is a world apart from a D60, you might look at the very-commonly-done Ford 9" as well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 08:36 AM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,046
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 411 Times in 354 Posts
Moser makes a reproduction Dana 60 that has the mount for the Chrysler pinion snubber. If I were building a car like yours I would want that. The truck rear end isn't going to have that. You could probably buy a complete Moser 60 for about what it will cost you to build that truck rear end.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:51 AM
33Willys77's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 57 Times in 55 Posts
Good point about the pinion snubber. Slipped by me as I have a 4-link and didn't need to worry about it. So, if you are using a 4-link or ladder bar type suspension, then you would like to have the snubber. Also, the 8 3/4 is very strong. I had one with a spool in it and I was tearing the housing apart (1/4" tubing) where the ladder bars welded on. I had to wrap and weld steel around the housing were the ladder bar brackets welded on to solve that issue. A full floating rear will have BIG ends on it - easily spotted by the bolted cap on the hub. The axle is splined on the inside and outside. For car use, you can just cut the ends of the housing off and put the 8 3/4 ends on it (you can buy these new), then buy the right axles. Pay attention to the inner spline counts.

Last edited by 33Willys77; 02-26-2013 at 11:08 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:05 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,803
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 312
Thanked 749 Times in 720 Posts
10 second car on a budget? hope its a big budget
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:44 PM
gearheadslife's Avatar
MentalMuffinMan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 107
Thanked 281 Times in 263 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
10 second car on a budget? hope its a big budget

come on, I've gone 10 on a poor budget.. the automotive blue pill helped get there
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:17 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,803
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 312
Thanked 749 Times in 720 Posts
10 second budget

Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
come on, I've gone 10 on a poor budget.. the automotive blue pill helped get there
doesnt matter where the ponies come from,the chasis,suspension and drive train still cost the same. What does NOs cost if you use it once in a while on top of when you race?
It used to cost me $55.บบ for medical grade NO2
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2013, 05:39 PM
adam83's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 31
Posts: 220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
thank you to all who replied. Yes, I am on a budget. Luckily I have a good chassy/rear/metal fab guy, Thats where alot of the budget is being spent. Since we are doing a mini tub and narrowing the D60, I was told it wont make too much of a difference about it being a full floater, because we will be putting different ends on it (8 3/4's I think?). And because he does so many of these, we should be able to get away with it for $1000 if its a posi rear to begin with, and up to $1500 if it's open and we have to put a posi in, and I think he can fab a snubber. BTW, I do not know much about rear ends, and I am probably not well representing exactly what he said or his knowledge, but he's a 40yr veteran and his shop and work are well know so I trust him. I will start a thread about the build soon.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2013, 07:13 PM
33Willys77's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 57 Times in 55 Posts
Yes, you can fab a snubber on that rear. I did the same thing on one I did for a '63 Plymouth. Got the posi rear from a local yard for $75 and put 8 3/4 ends on it. Axles were about $300, put on a generic disc brake set up and all done for way less than $1000. But if you are paying someone, you will also be paying for the service.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 05:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,756
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 65 Times in 63 Posts
I've always been told that one reason they use a full float on a large truck is that if you break an axle the wheel (and axle) won't fall off like it could on a semi-floating axle. Keeping the wheels on your hotrod is also important, but on a loaded truck you definitely don't want to break an axle and have one rear wheel/axle head down the road without you.

Bruce
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1977 f-250 supercab(10.25 full floating rearend) oldfordtrucker Transmission - Rearend 2 06-23-2008 10:05 AM
DANA 70 or 14 Bolt Full Floater Which is Better ? Rob Keller Transmission - Rearend 29 12-09-2007 09:53 PM
Problem With Full Floating Pistons dfmaas Engine 10 10-05-2005 12:35 PM
full floating wrist pins 406 ss monte Engine 8 12-29-2003 09:04 PM
"Full floating" 51 Chevy pickup... Greg55_99 General Rodding Tech 1 07-24-2003 08:50 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.