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Old 04-24-2012, 06:00 PM
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Why piston shattered???

I had a 355 afr 190 heads xfi280 cam .576/.570 .015 head gasket stock length pushrods 5.7 rods flat top pistons 6cc and on 1st start up it was making a weird noise like it was coming from the lifter area so I tried adjust them but same noise and after I rev it a little a loud pop noise happen and the engine cut off I tried to restart but was locked up I pulled off both heads and #1 piston was shattered and the rod was bent anybody have any clue what went wrong or what was the noise I was hearing

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Old 04-24-2012, 06:09 PM
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ouch, that hurt just reading it.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:24 PM
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How much is "rev it a little"? To bend the rod, something pretty much had to stop the piston from moving up, are both valves still in the head? If it was just turning over with the starter with liquid in the cylinder, it could have bent the rod, water doesn't compress. Perhaps the piston was cracked, came apart and a piece of it wedged in the cylinder bending the rod?
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prettyboyced
I had a 355 afr 190 heads xfi280 cam .576/.570 .015 head gasket stock length pushrods 5.7 rods flat top pistons 6cc and on 1st start up it was making a weird noise like it was coming from the lifter area so I tried adjust them but same noise and after I rev it a little a loud pop noise happen and the engine cut off I tried to restart but was locked up I pulled off both heads and #1 piston was shattered and the rod was bent anybody have any clue what went wrong or what was the noise I was hearing
Sounds to me like you had the valves to tight and was hitting the top of the piston JMO and when you re-adjusted them you went to tight and the valve hit and then the rest was history IMHO.
Be willing to bet you have a bent valve also.
But for you sake i hope not i have been wrong before.
Cole
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:22 PM
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so, only 280 degree cam with .575 lift and a thin head gasket (0.015). Which creates a similar situation like a cam with .600 lift with valves open a good amount very close to tdc.

Did you check piston to valve clearance before running a setup like this?

What kind of flat tops?
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:30 PM
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You mention running a .015" gasket, what was your piston at TDC to deck clearance
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
Sounds to me like you had the valves to tight and was hitting the top of the piston JMO and when you re-adjusted them you went to tight and the valve hit and then the rest was history IMHO.
Be willing to bet you have a bent valve also.
But for you sake i hope not i have been wrong before.
Cole
I think you nailed it.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:21 PM
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I rev it to 3k but deck clearance was .028 the pistons were speed pro hyperutetic
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:23 PM
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Yes the valves were bent and the head wasn't really damaged
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:15 PM
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If the bore is also undamaged, I think you were actually pretty lucky. It could have been a lot worse. Modeling clay is your friend.

Sorry for your misfortune.

Pat
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:51 PM
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I forgot I have the top part of the piston no valve marks
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:54 AM
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What were your ring end gaps? Any evidence of butting the ends?
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:10 AM
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If you happen to have only a two valve relief piston, and you installed the piston upnside down in the block, there is a good chance the valves hit the piston.. just an idea.. unfortunaltly ive seen guys do this not paying attention when they install the rod and pistons
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prettyboyced
I forgot I have the top part of the piston no valve marks
It takes a lot to bend a rod. Hydraulically locked is a reasonable explanation if there are no witness marks from the valves getting into the piston, and if there is no scuffing to the cylinder walls from rings end butting. Trying to get a handle on this w/o a picture and w/o all the info is hard- can you take a few shots of the rod, piston, cylinder, etc.? Try to give us ALL your info- everything that you can think of that might help.

Was there water in the oil or oil in the water? Did the engine flood w/fuel, does it have an electric fuel pump? What was the ring end gap and piston to wall clearance? Any chance the pistons were KB?

Did the rod bend a little or a lot, did the big end let go or was it still attached normally to the crank? Wrist pins tight? What do the rod bearings look like- was there any detonation?
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:55 PM
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I think it was just the "Hyperutectic" pistons used. That's what they do with detonation. They are higher in silicon content; think of it this way, glass also contains silicon, and glass "shatters", it's "brittle". Since all the auto manufacturers went with hyperutectic pistons, the aftermarket has followed. But, new vehichles all have EFI and sophisticated ignition systems designed to avoid detonation. Hyperutectic are less forgiving than "straight cast", and even moreso as compared with forged. Piston shattered, rod got wrapped around the crank, and locked everything up; pretty straight-forward occurance. What brand pistons? "One" particular brand has a history of problems, unless stringent ring gaps bare followed. It could have also been a defective piston; two major brands are now made offshore.
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