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Old 05-02-2010, 03:16 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Why in the world build a repro car when there is stuff like this out there!

I know, we have beat this to death, but I honestly believe most people don't know how easy it is to find this stuff.

This 1915 Dodge in parked on a street in a city of 215K in the San Francisco bay area. It isn't usually on the street, it's in a driveway. I have posted pictures before of the cars there. They are kinda out of my view but when I saw this out at the street for everyone to see I had to post it.

You will see by the photos (sorry they are so large, I wanted you to get a good look at it) this thing would be a VERY easy build. I honestly don't believe that people know how rebuilding a "rust bucket" like this car is no harder than a brand new repro body! I don't care if it's glass or steel (there are some VERY good glass bodies where this doesn't apply) it takes JUST AS MUCH work to get them paint ready as this car, or MORE!

The center floor under the front seat is rusted thru, but it is a simple piece to replace. It is the ONLY rust thru on the car!

Ok, here is the kicker, the whole thing, with ALL parts to restore it (not new parts, all the original motor, that sort of thing) is $3000! A lousy three grand gets you this complete car! If you wanted to build a rod, he has early twenties cars for $2000 and just the sheetmetal and frame for a rod is $1200! TWELVE HUNDRED BUCKS! That is less than you would spend for four repro fenders that need 200 hours work to make them paint ready!

I am NOT advertising for him, I hardly know him and in fact only see him every number of months and had to give him a call to ask these prices as I have never discussed it with him before (price that is). So please don't get the wrong idea.

This is only to point out what you can find out there with a little search.

Brian






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Old 05-02-2010, 04:03 PM
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thats cool it the bevery hillbilies car
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Old 05-02-2010, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I know, we have beat this to death, but I honestly believe most people don't know how easy it is to find this stuff.......
That completely depends on where in the country you live. In the northeast and midwest vintage tin (that's not a complete pile of rust) is VERY hard to come by. Out west and here in the southwest its not too hard to find, as long as you're not too picky. Most of the popular stuff (Model A's, Decues and the like) have been long since picked up by somebody. So the solution is for everyone to move west of the Mississippi, where this stuff still exists.
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Old 05-02-2010, 04:41 PM
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couldn't find that where I live.. you might find the car, but it's probably going to be rusted beyond usability...

I would have a very hard time justafying $3k for that unless I really wanted it.. I looked at an old Total performance T that at 1 time had been completed, but was sold with engine removed and in need of gauges ( removed ), floor ( cut out ) and no engine/ trans.. but all tires/ brakes were good and the guy was asking $2k..
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Old 05-02-2010, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
thats cool it the bevery hillbilies car
That's funny, it was the first thing that came to my mind when I seen the pic.
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Old 05-02-2010, 06:44 PM
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First off, this is just an example, there are a dozen others in his yard from this to C cabs to coupes to roadsters up into the 30's.

As far as "where you live", you could ship this car to you, you pay to ship the repro one.

Brian
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
First off, this is just an example, there are a dozen others in his yard from this to C cabs to coupes to roadsters up into the 30's.

As far as "where you live", you could ship this car to you, you pay to ship the repro one.

Brian
Exactly, I paid $550 for a rust free complete Opel GT on Ebay from California, then paid a shipping company $700 to ship it to me. $700 shipping wasn't bad, lowest price I could find and you had to be willing to wait a few weeks to a month until they had a load coming my way(Michigan). Only other stipulation to this low cost shipper was car had to roll on tires that held air. Car got here , was complete and really nice shape but didn't run which I knew and didn't care, it was going to get a SBC and rear axle transplant.

It never got the transplant, someone came along and offered me a ridiculous 3-3/4 times my total cost and off it went, he wanted to restore back to stock.

Point being it is a lot smarter to start with a car that is more complete and rust free when you live in the Rust States, that Dodge shown above could have the body shortened and be quite a rod for not a lot of $$$ invested, and when it got to you you could sell off the driveline, rear axle, wheels, front axle, etc to a resto nut and keep the body, frame and some other bits - the parts sold of might pay for the whole initial cost!!

Try to resurrect a $200 Rust Belt Bomb and you will have a ton of cash into just body work and metal, and a ton of time! Doesn't seem like such a great starting price on the Rust Bomb now, does it?!! The higher initial buy in for the clean piece is the smarter move, even if you can do all the body stuff yourself on the Bomb, you will still have a large materials cost.

Think it thru
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:53 PM
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That's the thing, with what these repro bodies cost you could fly out here and look at it so you don't buy it sight unseen. Have a little vacation and buy a classic car, how can you go wrong?

I sold my super solid, ZERO rust (EVER) 65 Skylark to a guy in NY, it cost him a grand to ship it. For $3700 he got himself a SUPER nice car.

Brian
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:15 AM
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DUCK GRANNY, DUCK !!!!!! I guess some people just dont like old stuff,if it aint new its junk .....Finding these gems is half the fun.
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:15 AM
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[/QUOTE]
WHY.....Because building a REAL car aint easy...Most people dont have the nads for it or the respect...even a les paul copy is pretty but its still a copy and no self respecting artist would ever get caught playing with one or even smashing and setting one on fire ,it has to be real...
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:31 AM
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Well that's one of my questions DBM, what is so hard about building this car compared to a repro? There are some super high quality fiberglass bodies out there that need next to no work to put a first class paint job on them. But MOST, a HUGE majority need HUNDREDS of hours to get them in shape for paint. They take HUNDREDS of hours to modify them for your needs when it comes to floors and dashes and all that stuff. It takes HUNDREDS of hours to fit fenders and the like.

Building this car wouldn't be "more" work, only "different" work!

And a metal repro? Give me a break, they are wavy junk, I have felt many of them and never have I felt one that would take less than a few hundred hours to make them show worthy. Some would take MANY hundreds of hours.

Without out a doubt this car would take less time any steel repro body and fenders I have ever seen.

It's like doing a frame swap, newbes have the poor misguided thought that it saves time or money or skills when in fact it is only DIFFERNT time money and skills. I saves you NOTHING swapping a frame, the repro bodies are no differnet.

For instance, this car body and fenders can be had for $1200. A repro steel 34 body and fenders is what, $15K? You could get an aweful lot of body work done at a shop for $13,800, even in the SF bay area!

Brian
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:55 AM
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We're On the same page there Brian. If I'm going to spend a ton of hours on something I want something real not a copy...
I would build something like a Cobra from glass though ,that way I could drive the wheels off it and never have to worry about scratching or wreaking a real one.
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:21 AM
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Brian - I'll stick with my Brookville even tho it took many many hours of work to make it straight - but a whole lot less then that Dodge would take - plus the steel in the B-ville is virgin and clean. I started with a car even better then this - then started adding my time to do and redo some patches, add a floor rebuild or replace the frame and so on and on and on ad nauseum. Yes it would have been nice to say that it's an OEM, but I really had to replace everything but the body shell. So now, what do I have left of that original '31 Ford - a bill of sale from when I bought it, a serial number plate and a LOT more dollars from the guy that bought it so I could build what I really wanted to build....and enough information to register mine.

Now, you cite dollar numbers to buy and ship - not a chance would I buy a car like you show without a visit. For me to travel to your fair state, leaving tomorrow, an overnight stay would add ~$800 including a cheap hotel and a rental car. Then car price and shipping - suddenly you are where the Brookville cost or even more.

Old cars from my area from that vintage - usually a pile of unidentifiable pieces of the heavier parts in the woods.

I have seen complete and running cars like the '31 Slant Windshield Ford that I started with - the cheapest was $9000 and the best was in the $12,000 range. Other hulks are in the $4-$5000 range. Dollar and time wise for ME, a repro was the way to go and others, probably the same reason. I have a busy life beyond my favorite hobby - and sometimes the time factor has to be the first consideration. Even then, this car I've built has taken over 8 years to finish - and it will be licensed within a month or so as I'm "tied up" otherwise

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Old 05-06-2010, 09:33 AM
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it all depends to me.. starting with 'real' steel is good, but from a cost perspective, that '15 Dodge is not a good example.. if it were getting hotrodded, the only thing useable would be the tub, and the grillshell. fenders if the owner wanted them. but the frame and rear suspension is all not good for hotrod material. sure, $1,000 or so could be recovered selling the chassis, but it would still be $2,000.. still need a frame ( $2-500 ), front suspension, rear suspension and lots of other parts.. sure the original suspension could be used, but dodge parts arn't that available and it would be cheaper/ safer to buy some new early Ford suspension parts... so when all is said and done. it would cost more than a more popular T bucket, which can be had for about a grand for a tub and chassis..

that said. as of right now, I'm having a lot of fun building my own creation, and cost right now is around $650 for the frame, body and rear end
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:49 AM
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I'm with ya Matt,the point is to have fun...personally I enjoy welding and metal working ,building something out of nothing...
Restoring an old car back to original is too expensive for me....Plus I like a hot rod.some cars are in too good a shape to cut up and should go back original,I guess thats why I like worthless rusty cars to cut up and customize.I'm saving them insted of ruining them.I guess the same could be said about building a repo car (your saving the good ones.
one thing I would hate is someone asking me ,after doing all that work is: is it real? or what kind of car is that? I'm sure I'd get mad...I can understand WHY someone would build a repo (it takes years of skill to rebuild one) but I rebuild real ones because I can....and its a whole lot cheaper when your just buying sheet steel and and suppling a ton of hours worth of labor...(labors free) what is really cool is home made rods like Cboys and a few others.
they can take pride in what they've done and they arnt trying to pass it off as something its not...THATs the real problem with repos
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