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Old 06-21-2009, 02:06 PM
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Wich cam would you choose between these two? sbc 350

Ok guys here goes first engine specs
350 sbc
9.5 to 1 compression flat top pistons
Quick fuel DP 650 carburetor
edelbrock performer air gap rpm intake
Dart Iron Eagle ported 200 cc heads.
3.73 gear ratio.
turbo 350 transmissoin with shift kit
3500 stall

Ok I think that's enough info. I am currently using a comp big mutha roller cam long story shor it sucks. Ok I have two cams that are a better match with the above combo. I already asked about the isky cam before but I found a lunati voodoo hydraullic roller similar as well.

Isky cam 282/294 234/246 @ 50 530/550 lift 106/110 LSA
Intake open 7, exhaust open 47, Intake close 53 exhaust close 13
All timing figures at 50 duration.


Lunati voodoo cam 60112 106/110
282/290 231/239 @ 50 535/550 lift
Intake open 9.5 exhaust open 53.5 Intake close 41.5 exhaust close 5.5

Ok I am wanting to keep somewhat of a nice rough idle but not too dang much and still want to make good power in the 2000 to 6000 range. This is a weekend only type of deal and never will see track time etc. Not trying to make as much power as I can such as if that was the case i would have better heads solid roller etc. Just want a nice sounding decent power making weekend hotrod cruiser deal that also performs.

I am wanting at least 10 inches of vacuum at idle and no more then a 1000 rpm idle but would still like a decent choppy idle sound. There is only 5 degrees of overlap between the two cams and would they sound about the same? That is why I got the big thumpr cam in the first place but it's way too much cam and overlap for even a cruiser for the weekend type deal. I was looking a comp cam but they are austempered and I want a billet steel cam with the iron pressed on gear. I have no experience with lunati roller cams and I don't know if they are billet steel or austempered. Can anyone answer that. Well I guess that should be enough. I am gearing towards the lunati cam more but don't know for sure yet. I don't want to go smaller then that.
Thanks guys
Eric

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Old 06-21-2009, 03:44 PM
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I would choose the Lunati based on the split # between the intake and exhaust dur @ .050. The Isky has a 12 degree split vs the Lunati at 8 degrees, and with decent heads you don't need that huge split. The large split is also how Comp does the MuthaJunka cams, they just use even more split to get that "sound".

Can't tell you about the material of the Lunati, you might find it somewhere on their site, even in core #'s or specifications, or have to call them up on the phone.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:02 PM
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That is what I am feeling more towards is the Lunati cam. It would give a little better street manners and I am prbably go to a quick fuel vacuum secondary and sell my double pumper model asap. I want my engine to run and sound good with my setup but with a little better manners but still have plenty under the hood. I looked at some pictures of the lunati voodoo cams they make for the LS series of sbc and they are billet steel that I can tell by the look of it. Just have to now sell my old crane roller cam for some funds then get the Lunati cam.
Cheers
Eric
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:26 PM
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With 9.5:1 static compression ratio, closing the intake at 53 degrees ABDC will yield a 7.41:1 dynamic compression ratio. Sounds like a weak-suck operation to me.
Closing the intake at 41.5 degrees ABDC will yield a 8.05:1 dynamic compression ratio. Still a little weak, but better than the 53 degree cam.

I think you're trying to use too much cam in the motor.
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
I am wanting to keep somewhat of a nice rough idle but not too dang much and still want to make good power in the 2000 to 6000 range.
If you get a single pattern cam (every manufacturer has their own version) w/.480 lift 230 degrees @.050" w/as tight of a LSA as you can find (within reason- you don't want 104, for instance), you will have about all the cam your CR can handle, IMO. No idea what the DCR is w/this cam. If you just gotta have a split pattern, go w/a little more exhaust timing, but the heads don't need it- it would be for your ears' sake.

Understand this is just from hands-on experience. I don't have any software to support my recommendation.
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:04 PM
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I would recomend comp cam's 286H with a 480 lift, its more of a good street, strip cam for the compression you running and gear's, with a 650 carb you will not under or over carb the engine, makes good power between 2200 -6200 rpm and yet have a chopy idle http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...26-4/10002/-1# with a 110 lobe center, it will give you great mid to mid upper range. IMO
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:43 AM
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Going along the lines of cobalt's reasoning, here is something close, although it has a ton more lift. The cam card says rough idle at 110 degrees LSA. You can use these timing figures to order up a cam from another grinder, but this cam will do what you say you want to do, with the possible exception of vacuum. The more lumpy, the less vacuum. Can't have your cake and eat it too. Intake closes at 41 degrees ABDC on this one. (8.08:1 DCR).
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=152&sb=0
With your parts, it makes 472 hp @ 6000 and 458 ft/lbs @ 5000. Volumetric efficiency with this combo reaches 101.4% @5000.

67-4-fun, you're specifying a flat tappet cam. This is a hydraulic roller motor.

Last edited by techinspector1; 06-22-2009 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:23 PM
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Wow on the 470 plus horsepwerr at the flywheel. I will consider the compcam but I don't want an austempered cam core. I know you can't have your cake and eat it too just trying to find the balance bewteen all things as best as possible.

Thanks for the suggestions guys I will be looking for over 230ish on both intake and exhaust. I just don't want to go too big. But I already have another daily driver performance s10 in the works with Sportsman II heads and a crane powermax roller with 222/230 @ 50 duration with 112LSA roller cam so getting something kind of too small would defeat the purpose of having a nice weekend driver and a daily driver at the same time.

I will keep checking around but I will probably get the Lunati cam 231/239 @ 50 with 535/550 lift. I know about the dynamic compression ratio but I mainly go by static. I know I am opening up a can of worms here but I am not racing my truck at the track and am not trying to make the most horsepower that I can make just tyring to be decent with everything. If that was the case then I would go biggest AFR 230cc heads with a big solid roller cam etc.

Thanks guys the 230/230 grind looks good from comp as well just don't know if they would put that on a billet core form me with the pressed on iron gear.
Eric
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
just don't know if they would put that on a billet core form me with the pressed on iron gear.
They'll do that plus engrave little daisies on it- if that's what you want!

TI- I was also guilty of spec'ing a (basically) flat tappet grind. That the roller version will have more lift is gravy! It was mostly the basic timing figures for duration @0.050" that I was thinking about, so good catch- and a good recommendation, I think.

To the OP- why all the split? You just don't need it, IMO. But it's your ride, so whatever. But it sounds like you are making a "thumper" cam. If that's the case, go w/one from them- at least they've supposedly done their homework. Oh, that's right. Billet core.

I would ask why you believe you need a billet core- but I'm just not gonna.
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:42 PM
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Eric
Many grinders will (or would, a few years back) grind custom roller cams using their standard lobes for no extra charge. I ordered mine from Comp with standard lobes, on standard centers, but the lobes for intake and exhaust are the same profile, rather than different. Didn't cost a penny more. At that time many grinders were doing similarly, their standard lobes in non-standard combinations, ground specifically to order. You might want to check around for this option today.

Pat
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Old 06-22-2009, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Going along the lines of cobalt's reasoning, here is something close, although it has a ton more lift. The cam card says rough idle at 110 degrees LSA. You can use these timing figures to order up a cam from another grinder, but this cam will do what you say you want to do, with the possible exception of vacuum. The more lumpy, the less vacuum. Can't have your cake and eat it too. Intake closes at 41 degrees ABDC on this one. (8.08:1 DCR).
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=152&sb=0
With your parts, it makes 472 hp @ 6000 and 458 ft/lbs @ 5000. Volumetric efficiency with this combo reaches 101.4% @5000.

67-4-fun, you're specifying a flat tappet cam. This is a hydraulic roller motor.
ok... i was just giving him another idea on a cam that is not to radical and streetable and makes good power with in the rpm range he wants
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:57 PM
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Well if I had more options on a cam then I would look around more. I am not trying to make the most horsepower I can here just for things to work with each other. I know my selections are not a hundred percent matched but the tech guy at Lunati even recommended me the 60112 roller cam for my engine after I gave him all the specs and he said this would work good for a weekend typ drive. As far as why I need to have a billet cam well most roller cams are made that way and for a reason for strength hold up etc. I know the austempered cam in my engine now is not in bad shape that I have seen yet but i don't like what I have read of what has happen to people who ran them and got flacking from the cam and even the tech guy said with the austempered cam cores sometimes you don't know what your getting as far as heat treatment goes. O well I will see what happens and what I get. I will probably just go through Lunati and get it custom grind with a billet steel core with the pressed on iron gear so I can use it for regular street use.
Eric
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