Will a 350 fit in the Proper place? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2013, 07:44 AM
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It's definately a Pontiac engine. To me, in the first pic, the frame looks original. The huge booster is trash and needs to go, that will allow the engine to go 12" forward and you could rebuild the firewall. An electric fan would work well to gain more clearance to the radiator. Can't see the steering to know if it is a clearance issue but to answer you initial question, YES, that engine could be positioned in the engine compartment. Do some web searching for cars like that with Mopar 340's. They're out there and fit nicely...
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2013, 08:23 AM
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the car also has a disc brake master cylinder.The car either at one time had a lot of good things or its just a bunch of random parts
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2013, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
the car also has a disc brake master cylinder.The car either at one time had a lot of good things or its just a bunch of random parts
That was my thoughts looking at it too. A bunch of free/cheap parts got thrown in with no thought to the final fit/function.
I have no idea what the booster is off of, but it isn't anything I've seen on a Pontiac.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for all the input so far! more feedback and advice would be awesome keep it coming guys! I am working on getting it in a garage so I can start getting a few things out of it. What are your guys recommendations keep the engine or get something smaller? Like I said I am new to this!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 08:13 AM
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If the motor is a good running motor, use it..Just move it where it belong's...
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 08:13 AM
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I am thinking you need to go to a different engine, but it all depends on what you do with that front suspension and steering. It depends on how wrong the guy was who moved the motor back, did it REALLY need to be moved back like that? You have a lot of stuff to discover before you dive into engine choice. That goes for on the car as well as your expectations, what are they? Do you want a tire smoker, or a daily driver that is reliable with good MPG? Or something in between? You have time, first pull the front sheetmetal off and get a good look at just what was the big deal with moving that motor back like that.

Brian

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 09:22 AM
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Before you make a huge mess; go buy the following:

1 can of PB Blaster

1 box of 1-gallon "Ziplock" bags (the good ones, not cheap ones, you want to make sure they stay closed - I like the ones with the slider)

1 Sharpie type marker, I like anything but black since dirt is black

1 rubbermaid tote bin with a snap on lid

1 roll of blue painters tape

remove the sheet metal, and bag all the fasteners, marking each bag "Drivers side fender washers" "passenger side inner fender screws - (3 short and 7 long)" If the fasteners are long and short, put a colored dot next to the holes for the short ones and MARK on the bag "red dot for short locations".
If the fender shims are present, remove the whole stack under each hole and TAPE THEM TOGETHER as a stack just how they were removed, mark the top of the stack TOP.

Take lots of pics, take hand written notes in a book of the order of how assemblies are disassembled, then rewrite the order for re-assembly while its still fresh in your head.

Anything chrome, put any labels on the back side or make a string tag.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
Before you make a huge mess; go buy the following:

1 can of PB Blaster

1 box of 1-gallon "Ziplock" bags (the good ones, not cheap ones, you want to make sure they stay closed - I like the ones with the slider)

1 Sharpie type marker, I like anything but black since dirt is black

1 rubbermaid tote bin with a snap on lid

1 roll of blue painters tape

remove the sheet metal, and bag all the fasteners, marking each bag "Drivers side fender washers" "passenger side inner fender screws - (3 short and 7 long)" If the fasteners are long and short, put a colored dot next to the holes for the short ones and MARK on the bag "red dot for short locations".
If the fender shims are present, remove the whole stack under each hole and TAPE THEM TOGETHER as a stack just how they were removed, mark the top of the stack TOP.

Take lots of pics, take hand written notes in a book of the order of how assemblies are disassembled, then rewrite the order for re-assembly while its still fresh in your head.

Anything chrome, put any labels on the back side or make a string tag.
Thank you for that tidbit of info! i will def do that! however what is the 1can of PB Blaster for (Might be a stupid question, so for that I am sorry)
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:29 AM
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PB Blaster is a penetrating fluid or spray. You'll need it to free stuck bolts and nuts.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jax32 View Post
PB Blaster is a penetrating fluid or spray. You'll need it to free stuck bolts and nuts.
Yep, rust penetrant to be more specific and you'll want to spray it on every bolt, nut, screw, etc on that car for a few days before attempting to dis-assemble.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the help everyone! Im very excited to start workin on this car. I know its going to take a lot of work but first im going to do all the research i can and hope to find someone to help me out that knows more than i do. So if any of you are around the central coast of california and want to lend a hand feel free to help out!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:41 AM
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I have a 48 plymouth,basicly the same car and theres plenty of room for a 350 plus a few extra goodies like a serpentine belt system from a chevy truck and and electric fan,but you'll have to move things around a bit...Heres a couple old pics of mine...nevermind all the cobled up wires a crap I jutwanted to get it running quick after setting it all up1st pic......2nd pic shows the serpentine sys...
You'll need a rear end and drive shaft I used an 89 camaro drive train and added 6" to the drive shaft....I hope you have a welder and a sawzall ....There isnt much room for your feet in yours and you wont have room for a gas pedal because I only had to cut a little out for he tranny and its tight on mine....
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:50 AM
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DBM...I may be wrong, but it looks to me like you have some sort of GM clip or a different frame than original....That would make some difference...although I agree there was no nreason to set the engine back as far as it is
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 08:34 AM
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What is the smallest engine you guys would recommend for a car like this? i really dont need anything too powerful. i just want to cruise. I would like to be able to get up to 65MPH no problem so i could drive the freeway. but I want somethin that I know for sure is going to fit without having to cut too much to make it fit. May not even be possible. I know this thing is a mess right now and is nothing but a nightmare but i am going to fix this! Most say to get rid of it but i dont want that!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 08:54 AM
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cobalt 2.2 or any other modern 4 cylinder engine that has a cheap buy and good after market supply.
What do you like?
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