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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2006, 12:05 PM
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I had a similar thought..An oven is 220 I believe.
Thanks.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2006, 01:12 PM
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I have that 7hp 60 gallon Husky. It will do the job. It is a little slow to fill back up but i have painted many cars with it and it will keep up with most tools.If i had to buy again i would check out the two stage Husky that is out now. Two stage is the way to go! As far as 220.Its no big deal. An electrician may sock you a few hundred to run the line depending on how far. I did my own but have found its easy to find electricians who need bodywork,welding ect.Or even a qualified electrians 'helper' knows enough to do the job.
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Old 11-18-2006, 01:58 PM
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That may be a dual stage shoddy, not positive, since it doesn't say in the specs he listed. The specs look similar to mine. Mine is advertised as a 7.5 hp if I remember and has an 80 gal tank like in his specs. Many of the compressors look pretty similar under different names. Mine is a devilbiss, but not sure who makes them for husky. Not too long after mine was on sale, They had another brand of compressor they were selling, but it looked almost identical to mine other then the color.
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Old 11-18-2006, 08:02 PM
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I know for a fact Husky is a relabled Campbel Hausfeld. My Husky came with CH paperwork,warranty papers and parts sheet. My buddy had the same compressor with the CH label.Exactly the same except his was blue,mine was red. CH makes a pretty good compressor.We abused the crap out of his.Used it everyday in a small body shop.When it started blowing oil.We bought a new piston and ring and head gasket and it was back in action.It was to small for sandblasting so we bought the 7.5 hp 80 gallon Husky It seemed like the same motor as the 60 gallon,just with a bigger tank. Was not that impressive.Took a long time to recover.That was definatley not a two stage. I saw the two stage 80 gallon at Home Depot last week. I wuld probablly get that or an Ingersol Rand if my compressor blew up tomorrpw.

Last edited by shoddy_f-body; 11-18-2006 at 08:07 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2006, 08:05 AM
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Shoddy, You have made a point I have been harping on just about forever and that is about tank size. It is common to hear the term "60 gal compressor" or "80 gal compressor" but really it is misleading to refer to a compressor in "gallons" since the size of the tank is about the least of someone's concerns when choosing a compressor. Most people mistakenly relate a big tank with big compressor but nothing could be farther from the truth as you have pointed out in the example of the 60 vs 80 gal tanks on the two compressors you mention. The manufacturers are well aware that a lot of people will run straight to the biggest tank in the store regardless of the actual performance the thing is capable of and since it costs them next to nothing extra to build an 80 gallon instead of a 60 gal they will supply these things with oversize tanks that actually can do more harm than good. Since this thread started we have discussed tank size, HP ratings and AMPs but not once has CFM been mentioned which is the real performance yardstick. CH does indeed install the same compressor/motor on both 60 and 80 gallon tanks on some models along with a hefty price increase when the 60 gal would be the better choice regardless of price. It is a fact that when looking at CH/Husky and several other econo brands the HP ratings are exaggerated to the the point of ridiculous and the motor/pump combo(CFM capability) is usually better suited to a tank quite a bit smaller than what is used. The big impressive phony HP numbers and oversize tanks don't mean a thing to performance if the CFM is not up to the job and the thing will still run out of air no matter how impressive it looks.
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Old 11-19-2006, 02:37 PM
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Yes you need to look at the cfm ratings more than anything else. You will see a two stage 6.5 hp 60 gallon will have a much higher cfm rating than a single stage 6.5hp 60 gallon.There was a class action lawsuit against CH and some others i believe for advertising inflated hp and cfm #s on their compressors.
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Old 11-19-2006, 03:34 PM
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This has come up several times and there indeed was a law suit over the HP numbers but unless I am mistaken it only dealt with 110 volt models and they were still doing it with the 220 volt outfits, until recently maybe. The sure sign they are trying to trick you is if you see "Peak" or "Maximum developed" HP ratings and about the only way to tell the true output is by the AMP rating on the data plate as these numbers are required by law and must meet the code so they don't dare try and stretch them Also the latest gimmick has been to list "tank assisted CFM" ratings which is TOTAL NONSENSE and means nothing except they are attempting to deceive you!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2006, 06:02 PM
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Is this anything new? Car manufacturers have been inflating horespower and engine size ratings for years, and some even underated them in the muscle car days. How much advertising in anything can you truely believe. Yes cfm ratings is what you need to look at if they are even accurate. Wasn't aware to look at amps, but now I know.
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:27 PM
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CFM ratings can be somewhat misleading but most are fairly close, particularly SCFM, and are your best bet for determining a compressor's ability. The size of the tank, especially in 60 vs 80 gal models that are so common, does not mean much and in fact it is not hard at all to find some 60 gal compressors that out perform some 80 gal ones so that bigger tank does not tell you much when selecting a compressor. Something like an Eaton or a Quincey sometimes has power ratings that may not at first look as powerful as a much cheaper brand X but when you consider you can believe what those guys say about their units it becomes apparent which is the better choice. I know that cost can be the deciding factor and I am not saying the cheaper outfits are no good since they can in fact do the job very well for a small non-commercial shop. The point I am trying to make is that the real HP numbers, for example 7 "Peak" HP can be as little as 3 1/2 real HP and usually no more than 4, is not at all bad. We have become so accustomed to seeing those big inflated numbers so much that the real power looks weak when in fact it is not and all too often a compressor is bought based on big and impressive, but phony, HP numbers and an oversized tank that LOOKS impressive. The bottom line is look for high SCFM ratings and high AMP ratings on the data plate but ignore the "peak" numbers and don't worry about the size of the tank, 60 gal is plenty and in fact may be better for a compressor of around 10-12 CFM. Also you don't have to worry about having a circuit big enough to run a 7 HP motor if it is really just 3 1/2
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2006, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
Not exactly.
You DOUBLE the VOLTAGE,120-240, and your amperage is cut in HALF.
You have TWICE the POWER to run it with so, it's easier on the power.COST will be the SAME as the meter SEE's the current but your ONLY pulling 23 amps TOTAL jc. Push-Pull.
220v is really two 110v lines. (out of phase to each other)
The electrical panel has two 110 volt lines only.
Nowhere in the panel can 220 volts be measured off of a single wire,nowhere.
A 5 hp motor, like mine says right on the nameplate, 23 amps.
That's 23 amps on each 110 volt line. EACH
The motor shows the amps twice for that reason.
Both hot wires have to be sized for 23 amps., EACH.
(Two breakers rated 30 amps.)
Each wire is 110 volts.
Power is amps, that's what you have twice of.
Nowhere do you double the voltage, every wire carries 110 volts.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2006, 12:00 PM
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Sorry jc,not trying to get in contest with ya.
Your USING 2-110 volt wires to power with=220v.
"If" you had "just" 110v ran to it,it would then be 1 "hot" wire and a neutral or common/ground. You will need more power to run with using "just" 110v. and your amperage WILL go up due to the LOAD and LESS power (voltage) to run it with.Most smaller motors are dual voltage and if you notice,the amperage IS about twice with it wired 110v. vs 220v. You still have the SAME load but using more power to run it with will cut the amperage down. Your still using the SAME amount of WATTS (load) which is what the power meter reads,it's just sucked thru 2 straws insted of 1.
Thats "why" you can push 50,0000 volts thru those "little" transmission wires on a highline. You would have to have wires the size of who knows what to carry all the LOAD they supply if the voltage was just 110 besides all the heat generated.
Ask any compentant electrician. They will confirm this.
I know because I am one.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2006, 12:09 PM
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I think we're saying the same thing.
I agree with you.
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