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No it would not run at all 180 out. just trying to start it would be a fairly violent event. Usually flames are emitted from the carburator.
It is more than likely a firing order issue or just a matter of moving the dist around a bit. If you cant move the dist any more then try pulling it out and moving the rotor a tooth or 2 then replacing it. Get TDC on the compression stroke and line the rotor up with the # tower on the cap when you drop it in. A timing light would come in real handy for you about now. Later, mikey
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well it did shoot some flames out the carb, but it would idle, but very rough, the more i moved the dist towards the front of car it ran better, can you explain how to move the distributor? as long as im at tdc i can put the dist in any position direction as long as where the rotor is facing is the #1 plug wire. correct? then i can position the dist so i can get more timing adjustment..
Last edited by pi71; 08-16-2006 at 10:46 AM. |
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The distributer really doesn't care where it is as long as the rotor is timed to the # 1 wire at #1 cylinders TDC.
If the car runs better when you move the dist then you are probably 1 or 2 tooth off. Try moving the wires 1 tower each, in the direction that you turned the dist in,when the car ran better in. Then time it. Or pull the dist and turn the rotor and shaft back 1 tooth. You will have to move your oil pump shaft to match. I'd try the moving wires. It's easier. Did you check your firing order? Hope this helps, mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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im gonna try to move the wires, so if it runs better when i spin the dist towards the front(headlights) of the car,but the vacuum advance hits ,,soo maybe the dist needs to go further to run right...move the wires in the front direction? im thinking it could be stuck floats in the carb to add to it.been sitting since 94,, its a 64 tempest with a 326 2bbl. firing order is counter clock.
can i remove the vacuum advance so i can spin it more, or just try to move plugs first.. thanks a mill. |
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Doc here,
First of all, when you installed the HEI, Did you REMOVE the Ballast resistor/Ballast wire? And wire a direct 12 volt switched Circuit? If not, If it runs, It will run like Crap in a Can.. Bypass the circuit and run a jumper from the "BATT" terminal on the cap, to the battery and see if it runs like it should. Next, If the Vacuum Advance Canister is hanging you up, to Verify..simply remove it and try and time it..(you won't be using it for base timing anyway) Easier to remove 2 screws and a "C" Clip than respiking Dizzy.. IF you can Advance / Retard The timing where it runs within tolerance, Re~Install the advance canister, then respike the Dizzy for clearance and wire BACK the Fire-order to Conform to the new number 1 location.. If I read it right a 326 is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 like an SBC EXCEPT it is Counter clockwise, Be sure it is correct AND 5 & 7 ARE not reversed..a very common error that produces this very same set of symptoms..and is blown off because EGO prevents us from double checking..5 and 7 are the ONLY wires that are next to each other at BOTH ends..gives you 4 in 1 odds to screw it up. Doc
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UPDATE!! runs!!
Ok good news, i took the vacuum advance off and turned the dist and tapped on the carb, it finally fired off and revved up to like 3k,blew sutt everywhere.. and sounded mean,, no tapping or knocking.. so i hooked up the fuel pump and put one end in a gas can... after doing this it flooded out and wouldnt start. i couldnt get it to rev up like that again, seems like a old junky carb to me,,. also a ton of gas is comming in.. i do not have a fuel filter in between the carb and pump ,,does that act as a natural regulator? i just bought a stock fuel pump from advance for a 326 2bbl, maybe they gave me a high flow? or maybe im just having carb problems..at least i got it runnin..thanks. anyhelp would be appreciated with the new problem..
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