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I have filled 80 grit scratches with SPI Epoxy (not necessarily recommended), but then it does seem to have a higher solids content than most......
![]() edit: I generally spray two heavy coats-oh, and I don't have anything on my Car except Epoxy- |
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Ive already got non SPI on the way
OK... so then most non SPI epoxy primers should be just fine with the 120 grit???
I'm thinking about 2 wet coats of epoxy, guide coat, block with 220, then finish up 320, 400 wet, 600 wet then tack it off and top coat. Is that a plan? Or am I thinking the wrong way about this? The parts had very nice paint on them and no bodywork needed, but I'm painting them black and want the primer to be super flat. Open to any and all suggestions Thanks Andy |
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It all depends if he is talking about 120 grit on bare metal, or 120 grit on filler or paint. 120 scratches on metal is nothing... but 120 grit scratches in filler or paint is an entirely different story and would be difficult to fill with an epoxy primer. |
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SPI epoxy, and most others will fill 120 grit scratches easily. Period!
I have filled 80 grit scratches with SPI epoxy many times and never had a problem. (2 full strength wet coats) The key is to have it cured enough before sanding that the primer doesn't shrink after the sanding and the scratches show again. I always let it cure 2 days out in the sun before sanding. As long as you allow enough time after spraying for it to cure before sanding you're fine. The longer the better, everything shrinks, even epoxy.
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Andy |
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Well, I went ahead and went over all the parts again with some 150 again on the orbital, just too be safe. I would have used 180, but it was unavailable. Then I used a scuff pad over everything. I'm sure it will be fine if I do the 2 wet coats and allow plenty of cure time.
Thanks for the tips on this one, there will be more Q's along the way I'm sure. Andy |
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