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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 09:47 PM
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Yeah I gotta say ,my first experiance with SPI SS paint wasnt so great...LOL

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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Well....mabee you could but its going to take two gallons for me since the first gallon spilled on the floor....I do have a cool looking floor though that gives everyone a chuckle.

everyone but me thats a 350.00 spot on the floor
thats the second time I've done that in over 35 yrs and both times it was red paint ... also the only accident I've ever been in was in a red car ,Reds always been bad luck for me...
Where did you hide the body..
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:28 PM
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I like the chalk outline in the red blob. Nice touch. My problem is silver primer. Every time I dropped the can, it would open. I have spots marked in silver blob in Carlisle and Charlotte motor Speedway. Charlotte was really pissed, Some days it pays to stay in bed.
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 11:10 PM
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A paint shop I used to deal with years ago had a black blob like that on the floor in the show room. At the time there were some door to door salesmen who sold a cleaner, I haven't seen anything like this in years, now it's magazine subscriptions. But at the time it was this cleaner, in a spray bottle. So the guys at the paint store would tell the salesmen with the cleaner "If you can clean that spot up I'll buy some". Poor buggers of course couldn't even come close. But if they started talking about what it could do, "sorry, if it can't clean that we aren't interested". At a paint store MANY years ago they had a guy put a gallon of paint on the rear seat and it flipped over and opened on the drive home. Just who does something so stupid I would like to know? Maybe the person at my work a while ago who put a BBQ with HOT COALS in the back of their Lexus RX400 and it fell over burning a bunch of interior panels to the tune of a few thousand dollars damage! Yeah, that's the kind of person.


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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Pats55
Great story. Let's not talk about SPI. Let's talk about self etching primer what happens when you scratch it. Will rust travel beyond scratch?
---------------------------------------------------------------------

If you are serious, then fine as I was about post another contradiction.
I will play anyway you want, in meantime the answer to your question:

Yes, creep-age is a way to measure a products ability to stop the creeping
Zinc helps some products some, pigment sacrificers do better but bottom line is there is no stopping the creeping of rust once it starts.

Acid etch usually comes in worse then urethane's-DTM , epoxy and a lot of times even 2k's that are not made to be DTM.

Here is how a creep-age test is done, you can see the panel; has a scribe mark made with a flat head screw drive.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthre...8787#post28787
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:14 AM
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I though about this all the way to work, the best product to resist creeping I would guess would be powder-coat but one thing I want to point out with this statement is there are a lot of grades of powder-coat like with all paints, some good, some ok, some excellent..
I make this statement based on the best ones.
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 11:42 AM
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Than you that was very informative
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 11:54 AM
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I know I'm learning something,good God theres a lot to know about paints and primers... The more I learn the more I realize how little I know...Whats funny is after painting my first car I knew it all...
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:31 PM
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Yes the coatings businesses is fascinating. Did you know that Steelcoat had an epoxy that when applied over oil would suck the oil into the coating.Another item that I found was a calcium sulfonate compound used between plates on bridges. The problem for me is my family is still connected to the coatings industry.I have Q panels with a couple of different coatings one with the calcium sulfonate solution.With a moderators permission I would like to show you these
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Yes the coatings businesses is fascinating. Did you know that Steelcoat had an epoxy that when applied over oil would suck the oil into the coating.Another item that I found was a calcium sulfonate compound used between plates on bridges. The problem for me is my family is still connected to the coatings industry.I have Q panels with a couple of different coatings one with the calcium sulfonate solution.With a moderators permission I would like to show you these

I don't think they would care, show it! Teach us something.

What people don't realize is Auto Refinish is the smallest division of the paint industry, industrial coatings is way bigger.
They have cold weather epoxies, a few specialized ones that actually use an ISO to cure.
Of course to be a big-big company, you better be selling house paint.

Fastest growing right now I do believe is the UV cured coatings used for manufacturing, 3 minutes and you can do what you want with the part.
I think Powder coat is next in line for most growth.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:16 PM
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This picture is EECI (Extreme Elements Corrosion Inhibitor). This is the calcium sulfanate, which has millions of platelets to block oxygen. This panel went just slightly over 1000 hours of a 5% salt spray solution, so it exhibits excellent anti-corrosion properties. This coating does not harden like a urethane or an epoxy; it remains soft and pliable. Some of the uses would be in the folds in a door skin, or sprayed into hard to reach areas like rockers and windshield posts. Another good use for this coating is on brake lines for vehicles running through heavy salt environments, which usually die in 7 or 8 years. It can also be used inside a chassis, inside doors after they've been coated, and whatever else your imagination can come up with. This is a heavy paste and looks like caramel. You would reduce it with mineral spirits and spray it in hard-to-reach areas. So it has its uses in many applications.
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 03:45 PM
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The top two panels are moisture cured non-leafing aluminum. The ones below are moisture cured leafing pigment, which is popular with other anti-rust companies. Non-leafing is a primer, dries toothy, has an extreme high build, and will level heavy pitting with multiple (3) thin coats. Leafing is more of a top coat, is very difficult to paint over, and is affected by sunlight. As you can see, rust creepage is minimal on the non-leafing and somewhat more on the leafing panel. This test was done in 1988 with 2084 hours of 5% salt spray and 23 years sheltered exposure. These coatings are activated by moisture, and the more moisture, the faster it dries. Recoat window times are relatively short. Excessive film build on humid days can result in bubbling. It is also very difficult to remove from your skin, as some of you may already know. If you have any questions, just ask.
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
This picture is EECI (Extreme Elements Corrosion Inhibitor). This is the calcium sulfanate, which has millions of platelets to block oxygen. This panel went just slightly over 1000 hours of a 5% salt spray solution, so it exhibits excellent anti-corrosion properties. This coating does not harden like a urethane or an epoxy; it remains soft and pliable. Some of the uses would be in the folds in a door skin, or sprayed into hard to reach areas like rockers and windshield posts. Another good use for this coating is on brake lines for vehicles running through heavy salt environments, which usually die in 7 or 8 years. It can also be used inside a chassis, inside doors after they've been coated, and whatever else your imagination can come up with. This is a heavy paste and looks like caramel. You would reduce it with mineral spirits and spray it in hard-to-reach areas. So it has its uses in many applications.
Sounds like it would good for inside door, there are some sister products of this used in urethane's that do the same thing but lets the paint harden as normal, used in epoxies and primers but the load is is critical or problems will occur.
Load is limited to 3-8% by batch weight depending on the products resin and with a shot of zinc phosphate does help a lot.

Good info.
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 06:37 PM
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Thank you. I know it could mixed in with paints but I usually don't tell the customer that .If 3 to 8% is good 20 to 25 got a be better.and you're right it does work well down inside doors. I was told about this many years ago and never paid much attention to it. One of the companies that made this in Pennsylvania got banged up by DEP.
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2013, 06:39 AM
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Whats interesting is this thread went from going to the dump to a 5 star rating...
Now we're getting somewhere...
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