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Old 01-29-2005, 08:16 PM
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Will this hole punch work on stainless?

http://www.lowbucktools.com/rw_punch.html

I'm not sure what grade stainless it is but it's boat hinge material and it's hard stuff. About .065" thick, I drilled only one hole before dulling and bending a new Bosch Titanium Nitride dipped 1/8" bit. Surely there is a better way. Does cobalt work any better?

Found some charts on tonnage, looks like this might work ok. The multiplier for stainless is 1.5 to 1.8 depending on the type. Takes .6 tons to punch 1/8" hole through .062" mild steel, so figure .9 to 1.08 for the stainless. The unit is rated at 1.2 tons.

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Last edited by Dave Carney; 01-29-2005 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 01-29-2005, 09:31 PM
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That is a Whitney punch or a takeoff of the Whitney. For stainless it is going to be tough. Especially that thickness. It is good for mild steel and aluminum but at that thickness in those materials is pushing it. If you are burning up drill bits you are running the drill too fast. You want to slow it way down and use some oil as a lube. Also make sure the bit is sharp.
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Old 01-29-2005, 10:54 PM
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About the only drill that will probably work is a cobalt drill but they are not cheap
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:31 PM
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I was running the drill slow......and the bit was new, it just fealt like I was trying to drill a diamond or something. Yes, that is the Roper Whitney unit. I'm going to give it a day in court i think, if it doesn't work, it will still see plenty of action on other projects.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:39 PM
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I doubt if the Whitney punch will work, particularly if it is a import knockoff.

I drill stainless all the time with HSS bits. you can grind the end to work better on stainless. grind it with about 87 degrees included angle, and about 5 degrees lead.
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Old 01-30-2005, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by enjenjo
I doubt if the Whitney punch will work, particularly if it is a import knockoff.
It's not.

You free hand it to 87 degrees? I've got a drill doctor but it only has 2 settings.
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:57 AM
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Yes, I free hand it. I have a Drill Dr, and they do a better job than any other drill sharpener I have tried, but I learned to free hand grind drill bits more than 40 years ago. If you know what to do, there are many adjustments you can make in grinding bits that make them work better on particular materials. Find a Machinery Handbook, lots of info in there on this.
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Old 01-30-2005, 01:47 PM
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Yes, that is the Roper Whitney unit. I'm going to give it a day in court i think, if it doesn't work, it will still see plenty of action on other projects.
Just don't force it to the point that th ehandle would snap off in your hand. If it does, you are going to have a major Owwie!!!
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:30 AM
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KEvin-
You'd NEVER be able to snap the handle. But then again, with a 3/16" hole, it takes GODZILLA to get through 16 ga. CRS. Two holes, and I'm done. (Point of reference: I can squeeze 300# on a bathroom scale- dumb barroom trick) 16 ga. SS would take 3 or 4 gorillas for 1/8".


Cobalt, slow, cutting fluid
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Old 01-31-2005, 11:14 AM
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Enco has really great prices on made in the USA cobalt bits, if you buy a dozen, works out to 79 cents each, they're on the way.
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Old 02-02-2005, 06:44 PM
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OK, got the little Roper Whitney tonight and yes, it will punch through this, took about all my strength. and it leaves a beautiful hole....but....drilling with the cobalt is easier. Drilled 3 holes with the same cobalt bit in a few minutes.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 02-02-2005, 06:56 PM
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What I do to drill stainless is to spot weld where I want to drill with a wire feed and grind it flat. It will then drill like butter.

John
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
You'd NEVER be able to snap the handle. But then again, with a 3/16" hole, it takes GODZILLA to get through 16 ga. CRS
I hope NEVER is right. The one we have a work...I have had it flexing to the point I thought it was going to snap. If it ever did, OUCH. I had a pair of Sears sidecuts snap in my hand and it was not pretty.
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:36 AM
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Seriously, it was a question for prospective assembler employees. "How would you drill 50 1/8" holes in stainless?"

Our answer/method: "buy 50 cheap 1/8" bits".

El cheapo Black and Decker brand seemed sharpest, "may get" 2 holes out of one.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:10 PM
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The key to drilling stainless is slow as you can go, lots of even pressure and a thick coolant that wont flow away. Use a premium bit. I haven't tried the 87 degree grind yet...sounds logical. I cant imagine trying to punch that with that little punch....Whitney makes a unit with much longer handles for better leverage.....A bit that sounds like its drilling rocks has lost its cutting edge......
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