[zildjian4life218]

So im finishing up swapping in a ford 8.8" rearend out of an exploder into my 86 cutlass. This is a pic of the stock driveshaft being held up next to the 8.8 pinion flange the shaft is pushed all the way forward into the transmission... I still need to get an adapter to bolt to the pinion flange and have a provision for a u joint.
I have a feeling that this will not allow enough room for the shaft to move in and out of the transmission tail housing and that under load it will just bottom out and break something. The stock shaft is 2.5" and has i believe 1330 or 1350 u joint... the cap is just under 1.25" and the width of the u joint is about 3 and 5/8" If anyone can help clear things up for me and let me know if i can get away with the shaft I have or if I will need to have one made. I have never done this so have no idea if it will cost $200 or $500. I will probably have it made at drive shaft specialists out of olean, ny. Heres an idea of the setup I have...http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...nge%202009.JPG

Thanks again for your input!

[prostreet6t9]

You have a 3R joint in the Drive Shaft. If you use a Spicer# 5-3022X conversion joint in the Shaft,get a Flange yoke,Spicer#2-2-1379, It will bolt up to your Diff. The flange yoke will add about 2" to the length so you need to check your D/L length.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by prostreet6t9

You have a 3R joint in the Drive Shaft. If you use a Spicer# 5-3022X conversion joint in the Shaft,get a Flange yoke,Spicer#2-2-1379, It will bolt up to your Diff. The flange yoke will add about 2" to the length so you need to check your D/L length.

I only got about 1 5/8"..... so guess I gotta get one made. I am gonna be making around 320 at the wheels. Any ideas on material diameter and u joint size for my application? I might spray the car a little so at most it might see 400 at the wheels

[prostreet6t9]

If your gonna spray a little I wouldnt use any conversion joints. I would build the shaft out of 1350 series 3X.083 tube and change the slip and pinion yoke 1350 series. It might be a little overkill but you would not have to worry about the D/L if you do any power upgrades later.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by prostreet6t9

If your gonna spray a little I wouldnt use any conversion joints. I would build the shaft out of 1350 series 3X.083 tube and change the slip and pinion yoke 1350 series. It might be a little overkill but you would not have to worry about the D/L if you do any power upgrades later.

Awesome thanks for the input!... do you have any ball park figure on what this will cost? I realize it will be different place to place i just want to realize about what i will need to set aside.

[prostreet6t9]

What transmission do you have?

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by prostreet6t9

What transmission do you have?

th350 with a short tailshaft

[prostreet6t9]

Slip Yoke part Spicer# 3-3-4281X

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet..._Gear_and_Axle

Do shop shopping for the Driveline prices. I'm thinking 200ish.

[zildjian4life218]

thank you again!

[zildjian4life218]

well I called two different drive shaft shops and neither of them wanted to touch the job... Both prices were in the $300-400 range and they said due to the offset it will cause the shaft to vibrate and ruin the u joints....The offset is around 2" to the passenger side. No idea what im gonna do now.... The length was 57" from trans seal to diff flange and the one guy said anything over 52" requires 3.5" tubing..... any ideas?

[prostreet6t9]

Originally Posted by zildjian4life218

well I called two different drive shaft shops and neither of them wanted to touch the job... Both prices were in the $300-400 range and they said due to the offset it will cause the shaft to vibrate and ruin the u joints....The offset is around 2" to the passenger side. No idea what im gonna do now.... The length was 57" from trans seal to diff flange and the one guy said anything over 52" requires 3.5" tubing..... any ideas?

300 to 400 without the slip yoke and pinion yoke???? If so,thats spendy. But I'm not familiar with your area.

As far as having to go with 3 1/2 tube is BS. If you were running a high MPH I would lean to the larger tube. Call around and see if you can get a price on just the shaft with 1350 tube yokes with 1350 joints installed. You will need to get your pinion yoke and slip yoke on your own. Some of these places are big salesman on the larger tube "high dollar" shafts.

If they throw a fit over the 3 X .083 tube.. try hitting them up for 3 x .095 tube. Either one will work fine.

[zildjian4life218]

That price was with both yokes. I called another place and they said 300-325.... but they just asked length transmission and rearend. Nothing about power so maybe when I call them tomorrow ill ask for 3" tubing and 1350 u joints.

[prostreet6t9]

I was figuring 200ish without the yokes so those prices may not be out of line. And YES do 3" tube.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by prostreet6t9

I was figuring 200ish without the yokes so those prices may not be out of line. And YES do 3" tube.

Alright sweet thanks. What's the smallest u joint u think I can get away with? I really don't wanna spend the extra for the overkill.... but I don't want it to break lol. I just wanna get this thing on the frigging road lmao.

[prostreet6t9]

Originally Posted by zildjian4life218

Alright sweet thanks. What's the smallest u joint u think I can get away with? I really don't wanna spend the extra for the overkill.... but I don't want it to break lol. I just wanna get this thing on the frigging road lmao.

You can get away with the stock joints if you leave the juice off. IMO... Don't skimp now that your almost ready to get it on the road. You can come out money ahead if you build it GOOD now compared to breaking a Driveshaft and having to replace a Trans case or who knows what.

I guess you could search the bone yards and see if you can find the right length to get it going.