Will these mounts clear stock SBC clamshell's? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:09 AM
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Will these mounts clear stock SBC clamshell's?

Trying to figure out which mounts I'm going to use to plant the 350 on the Ford Ranger crossmember. These mounts have been used for a SBC swap but only with the matching solid engine mounts. From what I have read, these replace the stock mounts for most X and A bodies thru the 70's. They fit on a Ford Ranger chassis quite well..

Other suggestions as to mounts? I know I can make mounts that fit, but without a steel yard close by anymore, paying what they want at the retail mart's/hardwares for small sections defeat's the cost benefit.

Moroso 62630

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Old 05-22-2013, 10:08 AM
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I 'think' they will work with the stock engine mounts for an early 70's Chevy Nova.. After '73 the rubber isolator attached to the frame mount and the solid mount attached to the engine and that setup probably would not work for me..

They are modeled after the stock solid chassis mounts, so it makes sense they work with the stock engine mounts. Summit lists them as only working with solid mounts and another supplier said they did not know. They look right tho
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:15 PM
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The frame mount you have pictured is for use with the stock 1975-up block mounted steel "clamshell" mount . It replaces the stock encapsulated rubber mount on the frame of 1975-up GM cars and trucks, making a solid connection.

It won't work with earlier pre-1974 mounts which have the rubber part on the engine, as shown in the second post above. The width will be incorrect.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:54 PM
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Crap. Will the stock '75- up stock frame pads work with the engine mount they have listed to work with that frame pad? P/N 62515. Jegs shows the pic as not being the actual part but gives the dimensions. It doesent seem like they will work. I just know solids is not going to be good in the light chassis it's going into

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Old 05-22-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167 View Post
Crap. Will the stock '75- up stock frame pads work with the engine mount they have listed to work with that frame pad? P/N 62515. Jegs shows the pic as not being the actual part but gives the dimensions. It doesent seem like they will work. I just know solids is not going to be good in the light chassis it's going into

All the mounts on this list are meant to replace the pre-'75 rubber mount that is on the block(like in your post #2)...not the one on the frame. They attach to the stock factory solid frame stands on the 1960's-early 1970's Chevy cars and trucks. Meant to give a solid-to-solid connection for racing.

All the Moroso mounts are for solid-to-solid connections...for racing, replacing any rubber connections.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167 View Post
Trying to figure out which mounts I'm going to use to plant the 350 on the Ford Ranger crossmember. These mounts have been used for a SBC swap but only with the matching solid engine mounts. From what I have read, these replace the stock mounts for most X and A bodies thru the 70's. They fit on a Ford Ranger chassis quite well..

Other suggestions as to mounts? I know I can make mounts that fit, but without a steel yard close by anymore, paying what they want at the retail mart's/hardwares for small sections defeat's the cost benefit.

Moroso 62630
This mount bolts to the frame(in place of the stock rubber isolator mount), and fits in the stock GM steel clamshell bolted to the block on '75-up Chevy's. Gives a solid-to-solid connection.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:37 PM
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I understand what they are for. I was just trying to see if I can mix and match the Moroso engine mounts ( either frame side or engine side depending ). It looks like nothing will work.. Only way to make any of this work is to find the factory engine side mount for a '75+. If they are reproduced it would be a +. Then I can use the parts store frame pad for a '75+... Probably better off with a weld in setup at this point tho, I liked the idea of the Moroso mounts because they fit on the crossmember and could be bolted in.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:51 PM
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Just came across this swap which looks good. Just narrowed 3/8" C channel and uses stock mounts
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:00 PM
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Measure the inside width of the clamshell mount and get some channel that's the same width, and deep enough to drill a hole through. If you can swap a 350 into a Ranger, you can surely build a custom frame mount to fit the engine.
I just used two pieces of 1/4" plate with a round heavy wall pipe between them, welded to a piece of angle iron that sits on top the frame rail. All sorts of cheap, strong options that will save time and money.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:22 PM
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yea, I'll end up doing something simmilar to the mount done above with some C channel. I can make anything. The only reason I thought about using 'stock' parts was because the steel yard I have used in the past closed down a year or 2 ago. Next closest is another 25-30 miles in another direction. As you probably know, the small sections available at hardware type stores is quite expensive. Still, I should get what I need for less than $30 I think... BTW, it's not a Ford Ranger anymore.Just the front chassis. Everything else I built.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:34 PM
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Lots of options if you've got junk vehicles around, or a scrapyard nearby. I buy all sorts of useable steel remnants and scraps from a local yard that I figure I can make work on my builds. Of course I toss anything I tear off a car in a scrap pile behind the shed and search there also when I need to fab anything.
Pieces of old frame rail make good material for brackets, mounts, or gussets.
Mine's not much of a '63 Falcon anymore either!
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:20 PM
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I have the mount matt167 has in the picture turned flatside down and welded to my frame and clamshells on the engine.i bolted clam shell to block then put a thtu bolt in and set engine where I wanted it tack welded to frame then pulled engine and finish welding ,but my front clip was off.easy to get to , You WILL get a little buzzing in sterring wheel if that is a problem you might want an isolater.
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