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Old 07-06-2012, 12:17 PM
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Window frame repair

I have some rust around a windshield and my question is I would like to hear from others how they fixed it without cutting out the bad area and welding in a new piece of metal.

I have one bad section along the bottom of the glass which about 4 inches long.
The rest of the frame around the windshield does not look bad.

I understand the right way to fix it is to cut out the metal but I am open to other idea's

Thanks for your help. Jimbo

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Old 07-06-2012, 02:15 PM
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What kind of car are you looking at? pictures of area needing repaired would be help full.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:31 PM
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1986 Chevrolet Van

The lower portion of the windshield has some rust about four inches long other then that it looks in good shape.

I want to use some of the Eastwood rust insulator stuff once I have it all sanded down to the metal.

Thanks Jimbo
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:26 PM
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I had a body shop across the street from a glass shop for many years, I did more of those than I can count, welding in new metal is realistically the only way to repair it.

That being said, is the back side completely open? can you see the whole back side of the damage? I doubt it but if you can there is a slight chance you could patch it from the rear with a piece of metal bonded in with structural adhesive.

That "could" be done, but not likely being most cars you can't see up in there.

But honestly, replacing with metal is realistically the only way to do it anywhere near right.

Brian
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:47 AM
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Thanks Brian

On a Chevrolet van I can remove the panel just above the hood.

It's the panel where the windshield wipers stick through.

This is one of those deals where it almost looks like I might be able to even pop rivet a section in and then just add some filter and repair it.

I am thinking of using an Eastwood product that encapsulates the rust.

Problem is it's hard to brush the stuff on in that location so that I get most of the damaged area covered good.

Thanks for you advice and help. Jimbo
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:52 AM
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Is it a hole or just surface rust? if its a hole the glass has to come out and new metal welded in...Eastwoods sells crap to people that dont any better(like rust encapsulators).and what little they do sell that is worth something you pay a lot more for...
If you want to know how to do it right and make it last you really need to show a good pic...
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:37 AM
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REALLY show the photos!

Ok, let's go cheapie route, let's go there. I HATE that road trip on the cheapie route, you always end up getting four flats when you run over a box of roofing tacks that dropped off a truck.

IF you wanted to pop rivet a piece of metal over the hole, IF you wanted to go there (God am I going along with this?) you would NEVER want to use bondo or any filler to cover it up. THAT is exactly what would fail first.

Think about it, if we are talking about where the glass seals, it doesn't have to be pretty, it doesn't have to be smooth, it just has to SEAL. So IF you were to pop rivet in some piece of metal you would want to put an epoxy primer over it and then simply use a seam sealer around the edges. Heck, you could use the urethane sealer that you will be setting the window in with. Now, if this hole is up on the outside and seen when everything is installed on the car, there is no friggin way to pop rivet it and smooth it out with body filler, it WILL fail very quickly. But beingwe have no photos, we have no real idea what you are after.

Now, without a photo it's pretty hard to give any advice that makes sense to you. But it almost sounds like you plan on leaving the glass in? Insert double rolling eyes smilie.

Again, if you were to rivet in a piece of metal and then seam sealing it around the edges and down to the bed of the glass with urethane sealer, this "MAY" work to seal out the water.

Brian
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:06 AM
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if it's a windshield channel just cut a slice into it, hammer it down, then lap a piece on top. It won't effect the seal at all and will be flatter than one would think if done right. this way you avoid the tedious task of cutting it out. Cutting them out sometimes for me includes two cut off wheels one big disk and one small, a mini air saw, and even snips. Lots of tedious work to get a clean cut.

If it's a cowl panel just grind the backside and lay a square on the inside of it and tack it shut.

These are two very simple solutions that should be easy for anyone. Not the best solutions but just as easy as glassing it and is a much better repair.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
REALLY show the photos!

Ok, let's go cheapie route, let's go there. I HATE that road trip on the cheapie route, you always end up getting four flats when you run over a box of roofing tacks that dropped off a truck.

IF you wanted to pop rivet a piece of metal over the hole, IF you wanted to go there (God am I going along with this?) you would NEVER want to use bondo or any filler to cover it up. THAT is exactly what would fail first.

Think about it, if we are talking about where the glass seals, it doesn't have to be pretty, it doesn't have to be smooth, it just has to SEAL. So IF you were to pop rivet in some piece of metal you would want to put an epoxy primer over it and then simply use a seam sealer around the edges. Heck, you could use the urethane sealer that you will be setting the window in with. Now, if this hole is up on the outside and seen when everything is installed on the car, there is no friggin way to pop rivet it and smooth it out with body filler, it WILL fail very quickly. But beingwe have no photos, we have no real idea what you are after.

Now, without a photo it's pretty hard to give any advice that makes sense to you. But it almost sounds like you plan on leaving the glass in? Insert double rolling eyes smilie.

Again, if you were to rivet in a piece of metal and then seam sealing it around the edges and down to the bed of the glass with urethane sealer, this "MAY" work to seal out the water.

Brian
OK Brian ,I'll walk down that path with you...
After removing the rust with ospho (of coarse) and getting the metal as clean as possible......
I think if it were me I'd prime and paint BOTH sides (rattle can epoxy and enamel paint) of the patch and the surface where the patch is rivited to before fastening it ...then seam seal it then paint the outside again...like Brian said No filler...Maybe insted of rivits I'd use glue (weld bond adheasive or JB weld) for a more watertight repair...
lets add this up ........

15.00 ospho
15.00 primer
5.00 paint
5.00 JB weld
20.00 super fast urathane windshield adheasive
Of coarse thats once the windshield is out , you'll still have to put it back in ...if you hire someone thats another 100.00....Did I miss anything????

Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-08-2012 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
OK Brian ,I'll walk down that path with you...
After removing the rust with ospho (of coarse) and getting the metal as clean as possible......
I think if it were me I'd prime and paint BOTH sides (rattle can epoxy and enamel paint) of the patch and the surface where the patch is rivited to before fastening it ...then seam seal it then paint the outside again...like Brian said No filler...Maybe insted of rivits I'd use glue (weld bond adheasive or JB weld) for a more watertight repair...
lets add this up ........

15.00 ospho
15.00 primer
5.00 paint
5.00 JB weld
20.00 super fast urathane windshield adheasive
Of coarse thats once the windshield is out , you'll still have to put it back in ...if you hire someone thats another 100.00....Did I miss anything????
yes, the $79. for the tarp to put over it when it rains......sometimes you can lead a horse to water......and sometimes you have to use the spurs.....
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by alittle1 View Post
yes, the $79. for the tarp to put over it when it rains......sometimes you can lead a horse to water......and sometimes you have to use the spurs.....

LOL, no really, it COULD be "worked on" (I don't like calling anything short of correct "Fixed" ) like that and provide a perfectly good seal.


When it comes to repairing these window channels one thing I realized years ago was that it didn't need to be completely welded in. Soooooo, if a spot welded in piece of metal will work, why not a pop riveted, if a pop riveted will work, why not a bonded piece?

I have to disagree with Mike (deadbodyman) on the painting of the piece before it's assembled, just epoxy primer at that point for me.

But one time while doing one of these projects in a window channel I was painstakingly making a perfect patch of metal and completely welding in the whole thing and I looked over to see the factory seam at the base of the A pillar. Here was this lap joint that was spot welded in with the VERY large gap filled with seam sealer.......and I was taking the time to do a perfect butt welded in patch? It's like the people who make a big deal about flange welding in a patch saying how it will collect water and rust out. THE ENTIRE CAR IS MADE OUT OF LAP AND PINCH WELDS, what's one more? Honestly, every single car made in all the world for the last 80 or so years is entirely constructed of lap and pinch welds, there isn't a single butt weld on them so why in the living h e double toothpick is one more lap weld going to be so bad and rust out differently than the rest of the car?

Of course for proper restoration and doing a super nice job, yes, butt weld. But for simple "repairs" or on a car that isn't that big of a deal or a location of the car that is hidden, a lap weld is just fine depending on the owners expectations.

That being said, on this window channel, if the metal were cleaned well as Mike suggested inside and out, and then epoxy primed and then a patch of metal was bonded in with a quality structural bonding adhesive, what would be so bad? No need for a tarp over the car, not anymore than any car on the block if you ask me.

Brian
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:27 PM
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OH yeah....The tarp....
normally I would epoxy prime and thats it also but if I didnt have a compressor and the proper tools I'd use the rattlecan stuff and I dont trust it, so thats why I would go with a little paint on the inside,just to make a little more water tight.BUT, Insted of doing all that you can just use an old hood to make your patches ,Thay already have the epoxy on both sides and its the good stuff..
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:14 AM
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How about real 2K epoxy in an aerosol can?

Brian
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:36 AM
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How about real 2K epoxy in an aerosol can?

Brian
LOL;You just blew the budget...
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