[One to Remember]

i have a 1993 ford taurus and recently the windows stopped going up and down. The drivers side main panel can take the drivers window up and down and can make the front passenger side's window go down, however the two back windows do not go down at all anymore and you can not through any means it seems put the window up. this car does have wiring and electrical issues that we are still trying to figure out but i wanted to know how to go about testing these motors before i have to rip my doors apart to take these out. i also wanted to know is if the motor still has the ability to make the window go down can that some how be harnessed to make it go up? On a later model that i had the window would not go down or up for years and then one day it miraculously started working again. I don't have the drill or drill bits to get these rivets out so i am trying to avoid taking these motors apart.

[T-bucket23]

The most common issue is the wires in the harness that goes from the door into the body break. I would look inside the rubber tube for broken wires

[poncho62]

Or...the master switch in the drivers door.

[LATECH]

the master switch has a child lock to prevent window operation when locked out, ( they go bad) it may be the cause,also the wiring through the umbilical from the door to the body can have broken wiring.
I would start at the master and test there, then go to the umbilical if the issue isnt with the switch.

[MARTINSR]

If the rear windows haven't been working it is VERY common for the motors to "dead" and a light tap with something will get them going. I personally have seen very, very few wires break. The switch, the fuse or the motor, that is all there is to it 99.9% of the time.


I just bought a new drivers window motor for my wife's Windstar (probably the exact same motor as your Taurus) at the wrecking yard. I put the motor in and nothing, crap. I tapped on it with a small hammer and off it went. I then had a worry, is it going to fail next week on me? So I called my brother who is has specialized in this stuff for years and he said sure it could fail next week. But being it was sitting in a wrecking yard not being used it is also very possible it simply needed a little jar to get going and will work for years.

He was saying that when he worked at a Pontiac dealer back in the seventies it was VERY common for new cars to come in off the train and need a little "cpr" on the window motors.

That was a few months now by the way when I put that motor in and it's working just fine.

To check the motor simply put 12 volts to it. Those motors are very simple with a two prong plug. Put positive on one and negative on the other and will go down, switch them and it goes up, it is that simple.

Brian

[35terraplane]

Originally Posted by One to Remember

i have a 1993 ford taurus and recently the windows stopped going up and down. The drivers side main panel can take the drivers window up and down and can make the front passenger side's window go down, however the two back windows do not go down at all anymore and you can not through any means it seems put the window up. this car does have wiring and electrical issues that we are still trying to figure out but i wanted to know how to go about testing these motors before i have to rip my doors apart to take these out. i also wanted to know is if the motor still has the ability to make the window go down can that some how be harnessed to make it go up? On a later model that i had the window would not go down or up for years and then one day it miraculously started working again. I don't have the drill or drill bits to get these rivets out so i am trying to avoid taking these motors apart.

I don't think you have a motor problem, simply because you have too many that aren't working, unless they have been dropping off line over a long period. I would look, as someone already mentioned, the master SW. with the child lock, on the drivers DR. or grounds.

Bob

[One to Remember]

as far as the ol' tapping technique if the flat head or the hammer or the tire tool diddn't work she aint taken no cpr lol.

i have my doubts about a broken wire myself though and i am trying to get the jist of what everyone is saying. The back drivers side will make a sound when i try to put it up so i know if i could force it down for the sake of experimentation it would go back up with ease. the back passenger is the only one with no sound at all with the buttons pushed. you want me to try to bypass the wiring going to the door by hooking the batt to the wires on the button controlling the window? If the master switch is the issue how do i fix that? This car has enough jury rigging as is and it seems like someone had tried to sabotage it before hand.. but i guess im asking can i hook the button to the batt or a positive and just ground the wire and do away with the drivers side main ctrl all together? i am tired of being rained on..

[EOD Guy]

I'd unbolt the motor and see if it works before I put a lot of effort in other areas, if they work unbolted....window tracks could be gummed up and creating to much resistance etc....If they don't work unbolted.....use jumpers directly to the motor......if it doesn't work .....check for 12v on the wires when the switch is pressed....if no 12v..... check the switch

[One to Remember]

im having a problem locating a drill and thats y i wanted to started the electrical testing before i got to the unbolting because there are rivets i have to drill out. but i just ran out there and there is like a black and white wire then 5 multi colored wires just on the window button alone.. i have no clue why there are so many or what they even mean.

[LATECH]

Originally Posted by One to Remember

as far as the ol' tapping technique if the flat head or the hammer or the tire tool diddn't work she aint taken no cpr lol.

i have my doubts about a broken wire myself though and i am trying to get the jist of what everyone is saying. The back drivers side will make a sound when i try to put it up so i know if i could force it down for the sake of experimentation it would go back up with ease. the back passenger is the only one with no sound at all with the buttons pushed. you want me to try to bypass the wiring going to the door by hooking the batt to the wires on the button controlling the window? If the master switch is the issue how do i fix that? This car has enough jury rigging as is and it seems like someone had tried to sabotage it before hand.. but i guess im asking can i hook the button to the batt or a positive and just ground the wire and do away with the drivers side main ctrl all together? i am tired of being rained on..

Sounds like to me the other window motors are running, except the pass rear.I would forget the wiring and put in window roller kits if you can still get them. the pass rear may still be OK but the little pieces of the roller may have it jammed as they sometimes do when they disintegrate. Take one apart and you will see.

[One to Remember]

i cant afford anything other then to try to fix this wiring issue. my main goal is to get that window up however. but as i said i am still trying to figure out what the wires are for. i understand the yellow/green wire is the power and i hear the blue striped one is a load but im still not sure.

[MARTINSR]

Go right to the motor and you will find TWO wires! Put pos and neg on the wires and the motor will turn one way, swap them and the motor will go the other way. This motor isn't complicated.

Brian

[vicrod]

Attached are the door switch schematic and test points to rule out the door switch as the problem.
If the switch works OK go to the motor and check for voltage. As stated before the motor will have (2) wires. 12 volt + and - for up and reversed for down.
Looking at the attached schematic all the switches are in the ground position when not in use. When are switch is pressed UP or DOWN it connects to the positive bus and powers the motor UP or DOWN.

vicrod

[EOD Guy]

You should be able to unbolt the motor and arm as an assy, you shouldn't need to drill anything, simply locate the bolts/screws that hold the arm on to the window..... remove those and that should free up the motor strain for testing. Make a set of jumpers to test the motor 1-pos 12v the other is ground, reverse them to go the other direction

[MARTINSR]

These regulators as well as the glass to the regulator are riveted in!

But right now you don't have to drill anything, just test the motors where they are.

Brian