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Old 06-27-2006, 10:19 PM
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Windshield Seal

Last weekend I was at the Back to the Fifties in St Paul (Great Show). I was talking to a former owner of Metro Molded Parts (Old Car Rubber Manufacture). I asked him where I could get rubber for the wind shield since I was putting in a 1 piece glass from an Olds into my Chevy. He said why bother, just use butyl and S10 reveal. He said any good glass shop will have it. He also mentioned that I should paint the glass black so it looks even when installed. Can anyone explain this in detail? Is it a better method? How difficult is it? I can do the old rubber fairly well, so why? Appreciate all ideas and input on this.


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Old 06-27-2006, 11:22 PM
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You can install windshield glass in most any car that had a windshield frame or rubber molding using the S-10 filler strip and an adhesive as long as the pinch weld is behind the glass. I prefer to use urethane or silicone instead of butyl tape due to the irregularities in the flange or pinchweld that backs up the windshield.

The basic procedure is to get your pinchweld all cleaned up and any voids filled. If there were slots or notches for hinges etc they need to be filled. Obviously rust and loose paint needs to be removed. A coat of epoxy paint or por 15 is a good idea.
Have your glass cut so that you have about 1/4 gap between the edge of the glass and the windshield opening. No more than 17/64" and no less than 15/64" gap all around. I always trial fit my filler strip before I do the install to make sure it isn't too tight or loose. Too tight and the glass may crack or pop out during installation and too loose and you will have to strap a board across the strip to keep it from falling in. (haha)

You can paint a uniform band around the edge of the glass with Dow betaprime 5500 pinchweld primer. This material will create a dark band around the edge of the glass similar to the baked on ceramic frit you see on most all of the newer cars. Mask off 1/2"to 3/4" uniformly around the edge so it will look good from the outside. I usually mask off inside of my frit line so as to have a nice line to cut my setting adhesive to.

Position the glass so that it is flush with the body using at least 6 rubber setting blocks 1 in each corner and 2 in the middle.. You want the glass to sit evenly on these blocks .You can maintain your 1/4" gap with some scraps of filler strip or wooden spacers, removing them as you install the strip.

Once the windshield is positioned Install the filler strip using super weather strip adhesive on at least one side of the strip. You can make a butt joint in the middle of the strip at the bottom of the window. I try to not mitre corners unless I absolutly have to because it is very hard to keep the edges down. I usually glue the ends with super glue. Once the filler strip is installed backfill the space behind the windshield with urethane adhesive, tool it so it looks nice and has no voids. Let it cure and you are done.

That is a fairly simple set of instructions, there may be other things that need to be considered such as what to do about your dash and header panel, etc. Is the windshield 2 pieces? this may require a center seam.
Most of the better glass shops will be able to get you the required supplies and give you some better specific instructions .

There is a book called "how to build fiberglass kit cars" by Tex Smith that has a chapter that details a flush windshield install in a 34 coupe. I believe that several of the rod magazines have covered the subject at one time or another also.
If you have any questions please post them and I (or someone else) will try to answer them.
Hope this helps, mikey

Here is an old thread I found with some more info:flush mount windshield install
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example

Last edited by powerrodsmike; 06-27-2006 at 11:49 PM.
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