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Old 05-03-2005, 05:26 PM
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wiping out sway bar bushings! WHAZZZUP?

this is the second set of sway bar bushings i have wiped out on my 66 Tempest in like one year.
the first set was polyurathane and the metal Energy Sus bracket snapped after a good 5 years. i am sure the stock metal bracket is stronger. way stronger. so i tried to put the ES bushings in them but they wouldnt fit so i used stock rubber. btw i have an inch and a quarter BIG sway bar. i dont drive like a maniac either. why am i ripping them up? could it be my air shocks? i usually keep enough air in them to give my car a nice rake. would that do it? it's all i can come up with. i have had the air shocks on since i got the car in '99.

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Old 05-03-2005, 08:21 PM
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Are you tightening up the brackets with the axle hanging? They should be tightened with the car on the ground with a normal load.
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullheimer
...btw i have an inch and a quarter BIG sway bar...
That is your problem right there! The anti-roll bar (ARB) is about 5 X stiffer then the springs and you are trying to send all that force thru some TINY little end links.

You need to swap to a smaller ARB. If you want less roll you should try a rear ARB and modifying the suspension (higher roll center).
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:11 AM
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thanks, but i threw out the original sway bar. i know the spring stiffness has to match the sway bar, or arb as you call it. softer springs for a bigger bar right? my springs are original and pretty soft compared to stock.

as far as matching my suspension to the bar what would you propose?
if it's too hairy i will get get plastic bushings again and go another five years. it's just that the brackets you get with them have no gussets on them
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Old 05-04-2005, 10:51 AM
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What is the intended purpose of your car?

1) If you just take off the ARB and don't put it back on you will get better launches at the drag strip. So if you just want it as a fast straight line car that would be a good way to go with more traction and less weight (Those 1.25" ARB's are HEAVY!).

2) For an all around street car I think a stock ARB would be best. If anything I would use a stock front anti-roll bar and put in a SMALL rear ARB as well.

3) If you want this thing to be a corner carver then your best bet might be something like a kit from www.hotchkis.net or globalwest.net (I'm sure there are others). Your stock suspension has some major design issues if you want it to handle corners well and will most likely cost a good bit of money (or knowlege) to make it work the way it should (even could) have been designed in the first place.

4) If you like the way it rides/handles just slap some new bushings on there and be prepaired to swap them out every once and a while.

If you want help with #3 this might turn into a long thread...

Edit:
Tempest's are A-bodies right
You might want to look at this
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/show...304#post449304

Last edited by Triaged; 05-04-2005 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:57 AM
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i tightened it up with the car down. #3 is me. it is an abody. i know global west makes all kinds of stuff but for these rides the number one thing i really gotta do is replace the entire brake system as it is junk brand new. has a single reservior and four drums. junk. i dont care about 1/4 mi times as it is a slug right now anyway. i may sell it too. i have a 4bbl intake and cam waiting to go in but might not do it if i sell it. i have too much stuff going on right now, i'm in the middle of replacing all the front end bushings and ball joints/springs/shocks on my camaro starting tonight
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:23 AM
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Is it always the bracket that goes? If so, just bend up your own with a torch, hammer and vice from some 1/4" x 2" cold rolled bar.
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Old 05-05-2005, 03:02 PM
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The reason I mention Global West and Hotchis is that both of them make a kit to bolt in B-body brakes. Bigger brakes asside (which it sounds like you want anyways) the B-body spindles are taller then your A-body spindles. What this does is fix the camber curve and bring the roll center above ground. Raising the roll center is like adding a stiffer ARB but without the downsides of the stiff heavy swaybar you have on there now. Fixing the camber curve means that the tire will want to lean in when you are going around a corner which will keep the tire contact patch flatter on the road. Both of these things are good for front grip.

There are some cheeper ways to do it that don't involve buying the $$$ parts from Global West or Hotchis and were dicussed in detail in the other post. If you are going to replace bushings and balljoints now would be a good time to do a B-body swap too
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