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Old 04-10-2006, 06:37 PM
Robert "HaVoC" Porter
 
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Wire Diagram for points,starter,1 wire alt,and distributor

This is my first post and I have been reading through the threads and found some great info. Unfortunately I still have not solved my main problem. I purchased a 1960 Chevy Suburban "Apache" with a straight 6 engine. The good news is while the starter is turning the motor turns.... no lock..yeah! However even with new rotor, cap, starter, solenoid, 1 wire alt, and coil I still cannot seem to get a spark. (please correct me if i've messed this up. The assembly was done like this: 4ga wire from positive batt terminal to lg post on starter. "s" on solenoid connected to ignition switch; "r" on solenoid to "+" of coil; "-" on coil to bottom of distributor. Someone told me of a ceramic resistor that is supposed to be somewhere but I can't find it. The factory wiring is all disconnected and in pretty bad shape. Is there anyone that can tell me what my problem is? (I've been told I'd lose my spark some day..... I just think it's too soon!)
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:58 PM
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Doc here,

Is there no spark at all? or have you only tested while cranking?

Open the cap, and with the key on, with an insulated Screw driver open and close the points, It should spark..

If not Check for 12 volts at your Coil wire (+ side) If that is missing you have an Ignition wiring issue..(wire is not on the run side of the switch) you can verify by simply taking a jumper wire to the battery from the + side of the coil..this bypasses everything. try and start it..If it runs you are missing switched power somewhere.

If you get spark manually, but lose it cranking, check your secondary Ignition, The "R" wire to the coil..If that has power on it during cranking then it's ok..if not you need to find out why.

If all that checks out..Check your coil..Disconnect the wires from it and get your DVOM out, set it for R X 1 Scale and calibrate it for 000,

Measure the primary Side , It should read less than an ohm, but more than 000, outside that range, toss it..

Next measure the secondary side, Set your scale for R X 10K, It should read between 10,000 and 11,000 Ohms..outside of that range...toss it.



Remember: Just because it's brand new, It isn't bad..don't rule out new stuff..

Be sure your points are opening and closing all the way, and aren't too wide or bent / pitted..and the ground pigtail is on the point adjuster contact.

The Ballast resistor is simple, just splice it in between the Ignition coil wire and the Coil + side of the coil..with the points shut or jumpered to ground the coil power at the + side should read around 6 to 9 volts if it is working.

Doc
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Last edited by docvette; 04-10-2006 at 07:02 PM. Reason: I before E ..Except after a 12 pack...
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:36 PM
Robert "HaVoC" Porter
 
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Thank you... that gives me the best advise all day!

I've been trying to figure out what i've been missing. I haven't checked inside the points! I was checking #1 plug while cranking. The thing's been sitting for 26 years. The distributor must be bad. I'll check at the points like you said. Then, if all goes south then just get a new one. Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2006, 02:13 AM
Robert "HaVoC" Porter
 
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It's ALIVE!

Thank you for all of your help. I now have a running engine with great compression. a little tweaking here and there then it'll be time to start on the rest! By the way... I'm a dope.... after all of the checking and cussing... the coil wire was loose on the distributor cap..doh! Oh well live and learn.
Thanks again.. Robert
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