[66Caprice]

My 66 chevy engine wire harness that connects to the back of the fuse box on the firewall has one bad connector pin - it's bent. It makes contact, but it's old and it's not going to last much longer. It is shaped like an upside-down "V" and slides into a square female pin.

I've inspected the wiring by unwrapping all the electrical tape and the wires are in very good shape. I really don't want to order a new wire harness for $X when all I need is a 59-cent connector terminal or a plug/pin kit! I could bypass the wire too, but I think that's ugly.

Is there any source out there for these things? I've looked and haven't had any luck.

[helrazr3]

i have a few wiring issues my self but i don't think that is one of them i need to replace my dash harness and fuse panel. i might be going to look at a parts car soon and if i do i'll see what i can find for you maybe i can do some surgery we'll see and i'll let you know.

[66Caprice]

I am considering using the pins for the temperature sender or the oil pressure sender, since they're currently not being used (got gauges). The bad pin is on the purple wire going to the starter solenoid "S" connection. It works, as long as the plug is in tight... I am almost finish with MAD electric's New System wiring under the hood and the last thing I want to do is reinstall a new harness!

[docvette]

Originally posted by 66Caprice
My 66 chevy engine wire harness that connects to the back of the fuse box on the firewall has one bad connector pin - it's bent. It makes contact, but it's old and it's not going to last much longer. It is shaped like an upside-down "V" and slides into a square female pin.

I've inspected the wiring by unwrapping all the electrical tape and the wires are in very good shape. I really don't want to order a new wire harness for $X when all I need is a 59-cent connector terminal or a plug/pin kit! I could bypass the wire too, but I think that's ugly.

Is there any source out there for these things? I've looked and haven't had any luck.

[color=lightblue][size=3]Doc here

Can you post a photo Of the Connector? I may be able to outsource it for you...

Doc [/color][/size]

[helrazr3]

is that harness a factory type replacement or is it a generic type kit that you have to adapt to your car? i'll be shopping for a harness soon i've seen them in classic ind. and the paddok catalogs but i would like to have a few sources.


thanks, rich.

[66Caprice]

The wireharness I have is the original 38 year old one that came with the car. I'm going to call around tomorrow and see if any of these businesses that sell just the harnesses also sell the plug with the connector pins. This was a New Mexico car for 29 years and after unwrapping the tape, I found no problems except where the factory splices for 12v battery and the high beams are by the front left inside fender skirt.

There's one wire I really want to replace - i think its the resitor wire that was for the coil 12v power. I have a HEI distributor now and that wire was being used for the BAT connector. (The guy I bought the car from did that) I've read that this wire should not be used for HEI, so I routed a new wire in its place.

I've finished up installing MAD electrics New System kit along with the HEI wiring kit. Big improvement in the lights and I think using a 14gage wire instead of that resitor wire helped alot too.

I'll take a photo of this connector Saturday - next time I have some spare time to do things!

[helrazr3]

i've got an hei to and you are right you cannot use the resistor wire for the hei because it drops the voltage feeding the dist to about 9 volts so it won't be powered correctly. i ran a 14 guage wire right to the switched acc. port on the fuse panel.

[66Caprice]

I took a test drive last night and noticed a big difference in the performance. That ignition wire had 2 splices in it, the wire was twisted and capped with regular household twisty-cap things! The new 14g wire is spliced (into the pink wire at the ignition switch. Actually, I the new wire goes to the ignition switch and the pink wire is spliced to it.

All that's left under the hood, electrically, is to find some solution to this mangled pin and then tape the wires up, loom 'em, and then it's off to unwrap things under the dash (and change the dashboard too).

[docvette]

[color=lightblue][size=3]Doc here:


If these are standard Molex pins, they are totally replaceable,

just get a Molex insert / Extract tool slide it down the rear of the pin until it bottoms out on the Connector,

Then Grab hold of the tool and the wire at the same time, and pull backwards, the pin and tool should come right out.

Replace the pin, and slide it back into the connector backplane...

Amp and other's are similar also, but use different tools, depends on your Connector.

Rather than tape it all back up, you might consider plastic loom sleeves... comes in Colors and chrome, Makes it really easy to work on in the future...

Doc
[/color][/size]

[66Caprice]

This is the plug on the good one

[66Caprice]

This is the firewall recepticle for the plug

[docvette]

[color=lightblue][size=3]Doc here:

I'm not seeing a bent Pin there, However you got a serious Corrosion thing happening there.

If the pin is Bent, it would look to be stout Enough to straighten out with hemostats ... so long as they mate tightly when done.

I would Clean it out aggressively With Electrical Cleaner And a burnishing file / Brush before replacing.

I checked NOS electrical for that plug and pins ...It isn't happening .. So next best shot would be a Boneyard, and either replace the whole plug, (transplant it into the existing harness) or Change the single pin from the boneyard harness.

Check your local auto electrical Shops too they sometimes have obscure items on the shelf, and just may have one.

try To clean and straighten it first...

Doc
[/color][/size]

[66Caprice]

The photos are of the good plug. Cleaning them up is on the agenda for today. Soon as the coffee's ready, I'm out there!

I think I'll eventually just get one of those harness / fusebox kits.