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Old 04-23-2011, 06:45 PM
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Wiring a battery kill switch

I have bought a battery kill switch a few years ago, but have lost the instructions...
How do I wire it? It is a 4-post remote switch (sometimes called RV switch); the 2 big posts are for the battery cables, the 2 small posts are for the switch on the dashboard, but how do I wire these 2 small posts?
Thanks!

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Old 04-23-2011, 07:01 PM
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http://www.allstarperformance.com/do...Alternator.pdf .

Cole
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:15 PM
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Thanks, but my switch is a remote switch. I have connected the wire from the alternator back on the +side of the switch to kill the alternator.
The 2 small posts are for connecting the toggle switch at the dashboard, it is this toggle switch I do not know how to connect.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:09 AM
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With out seeing the switch I'd be guessing........ If what you are stating is the the small terminals are for a toggle switch, then 12v in one post and ground to the other post, that being said..... you said you ran one wire from the switch to the alt, that would not remove the battery from your system. I would wire it as follows:

Cable from battery to large stud (#1) on switch

Wire from small stud (#2) on switch to large stud #1 to provide the 12v needed to operate the switch

Cable from large stud (#3) on switch to the starter

Wire from small stud (#4) to the toggle switch then from the toggle switch to ground
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:27 PM
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Yes, this is the way I seem to remember, thanks!
And I meant that the cable from the alternator goes all the way back to the battery, then "together" to the switch, this way killing everything at the same time.
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:17 PM
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One more question:
What size wire and fuse should I use to bring electricity to the switch and to go the toggle switch?
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:00 PM
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I don't know if I'd use a fuse, sense it originally had a cable, but if I were to use one I'd go with 50 amp.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:03 PM
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And cable gauge?
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:54 AM
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I'd use the orig cable. I'd go to the parts store and buy two new stud type cable ends, cut the orig cable in the location I planned on mounting the remote switch, strip the cable insulation so that it bottoms out in the new end, then take a new cable end and using a propane torch, heat it up and melt solder till it was 1/2 to 3/4 full, then while it still molten, press the cable into the cable end. Be careful cause some of the molten solder will spill out
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:34 AM
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This is the wiring diagram for the Painless version of this switch, and it matches your plan. http://c452191.r91.cf2.rackcdn.com/i...nstruction.pdf

One important point in the directions is that the solenoid draws current when it its turned on remotely, and it will run down your battery if left on all the time. This might be a problem if you only want to shut off the switch for emergencies.

Bruce
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
This is the wiring diagram for the Painless version of this switch, and it matches your plan. http://c452191.r91.cf2.rackcdn.com/i...nstruction.pdf

One important point in the directions is that the solenoid draws current when it its turned on remotely, and it will run down your battery if left on all the time. This might be a problem if you only want to shut off the switch for emergencies.

Bruce
Thanks, I had seen this drawing and now I am worried about emptying my battery... What do you call "turned on" (or "activated" as Painless says): power on or power off?
I am installing this switch in case I go and do some 1/4miles, it seems like a good idea, that is the only use I have for it, otherwise I would leave it power on at all time, I guess.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:30 PM
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The way the Painless 30204 kill switch works is that when the dash switch is turned on (activated/grounded), it activates the relay and connects the battery to the starter. At that point you can start the car. However, if you leave it in that position and do not start the car, the relay is drawing about 2.5 amps of power, so it will discharge the battery. If you turn the dash switch off (and kill power to the engine), the relay is not drawing any power.

This link has more detail. http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=30204

Bruce
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:52 AM
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You might consider a Flip-Flop relay, provide a 12v pulse and the relay Flips to one set of contacts and stays there even when power is removed, provide another 12 pulse and it Flops to the other set of contacts and remains there even when power is removed....... no drain on the battery. Beauty of it is you can use a very small monentary switch to supply the pulse. I have one wired up in my Z3 to control the flashers works great.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:18 AM
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Well, it seems it would be easier to live with a relay/switch that does not draw current, indeed!
So, where do I find a "flip-flop" relay? It sounds it is what I need!
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:37 PM
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I used a

Magnecraft 711XBXCL-12D, impulse relay

http://www.serelays.com/library/section7/105A_711.pdf
Thease are not cheap I think I paid $25 but it was exactly what I wanted
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