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Old 02-07-2006, 06:55 AM
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wiring diagram

I'm building a hobby stock race car with my son and need a wiring diagram. Can anyone help me? This is what I have: 3 gauges-oil, volts,water. One wire alt(100 amp), push button starter, remote solenoid, lights for gauges and maybe a fan in the engine compartment. Of course we will have a stereo.
Any help will be appreciated.

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Old 02-07-2006, 02:55 PM
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Doc here,

First off , It would be helpful to know what kind of body you will be working with. And What Kind of engine you will be using. (Different wiring for different engines) Does the Vehicle have a Fuse buss (fuse block) in It now? Will it be a street Car, needing:
  • lights,
  • turn signals,
  • brake lights,
  • tail lamps,
  • backup lamps,
  • Horn,
  • heater,
  • Air conditioner,
  • Wipers,

If that's the case (or even if not) you might want to consider one of the many aftermarket "No Frills" , " Bare Bones" harness's available. Like an 8 Circuit Painless, Or EX kit .. For about $150 to $200 Bucks..

Much less money than you will spend buying Retail components and wire products to build one yourself..(just look at the price of GOOD bulk 18 gauge wire in a 500 foot roll, AND multiply that a minimum of 6 times for different colors of wire)

This not withstanding, the cost of a Fuse block, connectors, harness building and installation hardware, and any specialty tools you may have to buy to build ONE HARNESS. It would be a different story , were you to build two or three a year, and got wholesale costs.

To get you running bare bones..
  • Run a 4 ga or better cable from the positive terminal on the battery to the big bolt on the starter solenoid marked "B".
  • From that Bolt, run a proper fuse link to a 10 gauge wire , and run that to the "Hot At All Times" on the Ignition switch..
  • Run a wire 18 gauge, from the "Hot in Start" terminal on the Ignition Switch, To the neutral safety Switch, then through To the "S" terminal of the Solenoid.
  • From the solenoid, on the "R" terminal, run an 18 gauge wire to the coil AND parallel that into another 10 Gauge wire that will feed back into the Ignition switch "Hot In Run" terminal.
  • From this terminal, (hot in run) Parallel a wire , 10 gauge down to the fuse buss, and tie it to the "High" side (Or common hot buss, ) and connect it there. This will provide power to the vehicle to anything on the "Switched " side of the fuse buss.

This system will give you a Crank and run ability, with neutral Safety Switch, Primary and secondary Ignition Circuits. Here is the Equivalent Diagram:



The One Wire Alternator installation is easy and Simple.. Mount your Alternator, If it is aluminum (and all of them are, ) as well as the mount, get some Aluminum Wire bonding paste and apply it to all parts that will Contact steel..Mounts, Bolts, nuts ETC..

This will control Electrolysis from the two Dissimilar metals. (Steel Block, Aluminum Case and mount, and it's hardware.) Sounds like a "Thing to do later, or Skip" Step, but in short order, Electrolysis Can Eat a water pump impeller faster than any acid, and tear up the Alternator, as well as loose It's grounds..So Be sure to do it.

Run a 10 gauge wire from the Alternator to the Big bolt on the Starter, Via a proper fuse link, If the car will max draw , say, 65 Amps, install a 70 link..or the Closest just above that figure Available. From the Alternator Ground Lug, Or Case ground, run a 10 gauge wire from there to your Ground buss system over by the starter and ground it there (Ground buss Description To follow below)

That's that..Your up and Charging.

Those Gauges, assuming electrical, will usually be : three terminal, marked ,
  • I=ignition 12 volts switched
  • G=Ground
  • S=Sender
Except for the Voltage gauge, which will be + and -.

Run all the "I" wires together and tie them into an "Instrument" Fuse, on the "Switched Side" of the fuse buss (hot when key is on) and properly Fuse it..

Run all the "G" Wires together and ground them, Burnish paint and grease from the area, use a Star and lock washer and attach your ground.

Run all the "S" wires to their proper senders, and attach them.

The Volt gauge is simple, just install the + side to any switched voltage source, and run the - over to your instrument grounds.

If you have Illumination, tie them all together on both sets of wires Grounds and dim, and ground the grounds, and run the hot side to whatever you will be using as lighting...or If none, to the switched side of the fuse buss, add a proper fuse.

There you go you have Some Instrumentation.

The Ground Buss:

Run a properly gauged 4 ga or better, Ground cable from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter, From that same bolt get a Battery cable at the parts store, that has two 3/8 ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the Frame.

Next get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals and run that from your bolt on the block to the Firewall, and another to the Alternator bracket or mount bolt. (*Noted Above*)

Next get some Wire Braid, (Radio Shack) and install braid from the radiator support to the frame, Fenderwells to frame , hood to firewall, Doors to door posts, gas flap to body, tailgate / Trunk to body.

At each point the wire is grounded, Burnish ALL the paint and grease off to bare metal. Use a proper star-washer and lock. Use sheetmetal or Tech screws where no screws are available.

It sounds like a lot of work, but after you assemble all the parts, it's only a few hours to do..and you'll end up with a system that will work reliably for many years to come.

OK now you have a system that will Start, Run, Charge, Monitor the Engine, and give you options at the fuse buss..The rest is all Choice of what you want to run ..

Good Luck!

Doc
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Old 02-07-2006, 06:28 PM
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Go to the Pianless Wiring web site and download a manual. It has enough wiring information in it to do what you want to.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/M...0501Manual.pdf

Vince
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