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Do you have the stock metal tube that attaches to the back of the engine and provides a channel for the wiring? I found one on a newer engine that was a little bigger than the stock one on my '75, and it seems to protect the wiring very well. I have 3 wires coming up from the starter (charge wire, power to fuse box, and starter solenoid to ignition), so the stock tube was a little tight.
If its the alternator charge wire you can also run it directly from the battery positive over to the alternator BAT terminal. Most of the newer Vortec GM vehicles have this exact setup from the factory, so they use a battery cable with the alternator wire and fusible link molded on. The charge wire is very visible, but its also a long way from the exhaust heat. Bruce |
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I used some of the Russel brand heat sheild flexy silver stuff that Advance auto has hanging on a peg board.Its around 2 ft long.Ran it down from alt. to where fuel pump used to be then thru the motor mount to the starter.
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Ditto on the sleeving. I use this guy ....good people and good prices.
Connectors, Ignition Accessories items in PERFORMANCE PLUS CONNECTION store on eBay! |
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computer salvage.
When I was in Californis I bought a spool of fiberglass braided sleeving like some of the older Fords used on the auto choke heat tube. You used to be able to find all kinds of stuff in those computer,electronic salvage stores
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So what I ended up doing was shrink tube wrapping the entire length of wire, followed by encapsulating that in rubber splicing tape followed by a length of painless powerbraid and finally another length of shrink tubing. Hopefull that is overkill.
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How much space between the wire and the exhaust....are they close to touching? Better to have a single layer of the correct product than building it up so thick that it is closer to touching something hot....
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Just keep an eye on it......it will most likely be fine. I cant see the block getting that hot where it would melt thru all those layers but you never know. Look for chafing too. You could always change it out later on if need be. Also, the wire should be gxl grade or better. Regards.
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I'd worry about it being against the block! Layers are good , but they need to be loose and of a material that resists heat transfer........ like the stuff made to protect spark plug wires. My spark plug protectors lay right on the header and I haven't melted a single plug wire since I started using them. The orig protector was a metal tube, the tube kept the wire away from the heat source and it wasn't touching anything but the firewall so direct heat transfer was kept to a min.
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