[1953 Homer]

Guys,
I'm building a low-buck rat rod of sorts and need help with re-wiring the beast. I don't want to spend the big bucks on a pre-built wiring fuse panel and wiring harness. I want to get my parts from the local pick-and-pull, but need to know what to look for. I'm not planning on any high powered stereo or A/C, just need the basics. I can build my own harness and run all the wires, but want to know what make/model vehicle would give me 8-10 circuits (spade type fuses) and a relay or two if possible. I know someone out there in hot rod land has done this and can same me a lot of trial and error. Thanks for the help......Mike

[302 Z28]

Most cars in salvage yards today are not basic cars. Most if not all will have power windows, power seats and the like. Look at base models like Chevy Chevette, Dodge Neon, and even some lower end trucks. The newer cars and trucks in some case have the mini fuses that make a small neat installation.

Vince

[matt167]

be careful with EFI cars, some of the relays are computer circuits. best to stay pre 1990, or pre 1980 is even better but then you may not have spade type fuses.

I would get a replacement fuese block from Napa and get a relay block from there also, and forget using a factory harness.

[malc]

RebelWire make good harnesses at a decent price.

[1953 Homer]

Thanks for the suggestions, I will weigh them all and look for the best (and cheapest) way to get the jobe done.

Mike

[58Apache]

When you consider this is one of the biggest jobs that most guys shy away from, and the fact that it can give you the most trouble in the long run, from not starting to actually catching fire in some drastic cases, this is one area where cheap and good don't work together.

A purpose built modern quality harness for this couldn't be more than $135. It will likely save you many times that in installation trouble, safety, and electrical gremlins down the road.

Just my opinion on what I'd do, it's your car.

Steve

[Cape Cod Bob]

I just picked up a fuse box from the boneyard and a couple relays for $25. Thought that was to hi.
It was from a town car and has way to many fuses then a lo-buck rod needs. But, don't have to use them all.
It came with 2 fkashers on it. One for the turn signals, and one for the hazard.
But u don't need them on old cars because the had not been invented yet.
The rear stop lites (1157) will draw 2.1 amps each and should not need a relay. What steering column are u using?
When u get the fuse box try to get the reference lable for that car to and then just use the fuses they used for the same stuff. Real important . BR SURE TO CUT THE WIRES WITH A LONGEST TAIL U CAN. That way u cant land all the wires from the fuse box on a terminal block. Then run your car wires to the block. Also is a good test point.
Mount the fuse box on a swing down panel behind the dash, Leave plenty of lead for the wires to swing down with it.
You will need a horn relay.
Also read all there is on wiring in this site and get diagrams from MAD
If u google hotrod wiring u can get leads on prints etc.

[75gmck25]

The fuse box from a mid eighties GM light truck/pickup would probably work for your application. It has all the basic circuits, including power windows and locks, but did not have a computer until '87. If you want to use the power accessories, I think they used a separate relay module that is mounted up under the dash of the truck.

Bruce

[red65mustang]

for <$10 you can buy a littlefuse 4 or 6 circuit blade fuse panel at your local parts store....
with either male spade or screw wire terminations so no splicing is required....

there is no reason you can't have multiple main power feed wires to multiple fuse panels grouped by action (batt direct/ign on/etc)