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Depending on if your truck is wired for a external regulated alt or an internal regulated alt.
if it's wired for a internal regulated alt or converted to an internal regulated alt, here's how it should be wired.
The number 2 terminal is the "F" terminal.
Terminal #1 from the alt goes to the one side of the idiot light on the dash. The other side of the idiot light goes to a switched 12v source (hot when the key is in the run position) This is the exciter wire and tells the alt to start producing juice. The idiot light does not get a ground wire, it gets a ground from the internal regulator in the alt when the alt isn't spinning. That's why it lights when the key is turned to run but the engine isn't running, and it goes out when the engine starts. You don't have to run an idiot light but why not have a fault indicator, if you choose not to run the light you need to provide the 12v, in run, to the #1 terminal.
Terminal #2 or "F" from the alt goes to the hot side of the wiring system, normally it’s spliced into the hot feed leading to the fuse box. This is the sense wire, it tells the alt to produce more or less juice depending on the demands of your electrical system.
The large stud on the back of the alt is the output and is tied directly to the battery with a large battery cable. Sometimes it's routed from the alt to the starter lug then to the pos battery post.
Second question...... I would not run a ammeter use a volt meter instead much easier to wire.... basicly hook one side of the volt meter to ground and the other side to a switched 12v and that's about it, depending on the meter but most are like that.
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