[BigBlockT]

I have a 4-link rear in the streetrod I'm building and was pondering which of the three would be the best or atleast for my application ?

[OneMoreTime]

I use a panhard as I think it gives a more positive location and certainly easier for the fabricator..

Sam

[68NovaSS]

I have a wishbone in my 4-link back half car, but it's not a street rod in the Model A, Model T sense. Works good

[bentwings]

I have a panhard bar maximum width possible in a prostreet frame. It works fine for me but my sons have beat me to death to get a diagonal bar. So I did. Come spring I will have honest to goodness side by side testing because I'm gong to leave the panhard mounts in. . Frankly I think there will be some binding at extreme suspension limits with the diagonal bar. The panhard bar allows a bit of side to side movement of the body but with only 3 inches of suspension travel you surely don't notice it.

I would guess that if you could test on skid pad or slaom course against a clock you might get some difference due to changing of the rear roll height but I'm going to have to see the difference.

Since Nova has the wishbone and it works good for him with a high powered car I guess it is a toss up. Which ever is easiest to install is the winner. If you really want to get crazy Speedway has a Watts link. I even looked at this but there just isn't room for it with the new anti roll bar.

[32Essex]

I chose the longest panhard bar I could get under the car because there just wasn't room for the watts-link in my coupe either.

[BillyShope]

Originally Posted by bentwings

...but with only 3 inches of suspension travel you surely don't notice it.

With a total of 3 inches of travel and a 20 inch long Panhard, you'd have a maximum of 0.056 inches of lateral displacement.

Them thar watts thingimajigs shore do look purty, though. And, they probably earn extra points at car shows.
http://www.racetec.cc/shope

[bentwings]

Billy, I read your stuff all the time. Wonderful information. I worked out the movement on my SolidWorks before I built it. That's where I also came up with the bind in the other systems. I've usually thought of Watts likage as sports car stuff. It just takes up too much space for too little gain.

I just finished building my rear anti roll bar also done on SW. I also ran Cosmos analysis on it. An 1 1/4 4130 tube .058 wall will be marginal for street on the very stiff side but I could only estimate the angular movement. There are lots of tube sizes available and I can always make a smaller dia torsion tube. I also have a spring loaded link designed for it that I'll try in the spring. It should take a little of the harshness out of it and they will be easily removable for the solid links come race time.