Hello! I thought I'd be nice and polish my parents Black 2007 Impala. I used a Makita polisher on it's slowest speed, started with Farecla g3 and their white foam pad. I kept it wet, and went very quickly with the G3. I wiped it off, then did the entire thing with G10, again with their black glazing pad, keeping it wet. Once I was done, I buffed it out and it looked great.
Now, a few days later when the sun is out, its got some major swirl marks. And before I try to fix it, Im curious as to what went wrong. Did I not do enough G10 after the G3? Or should I use something in between the G10 and G3? Or what, I dont know. I havent had this problem with any other paint I've polished, but this IS my first time polishing black.
thats a course cutting compound you have used. You now need to hand polish the car with Farecla's polish. It's got acrylics in it which will fill the scratch marks ( thats the swirls you can see) . the only other alternative is to hand rub the entire car with G10 in long passes, not round passes.then go over with the polish. Farecla is great stuff but you need to be very careful when using it. :)
You filled the swirls and now they came back. The only true way to eliminate swirl marks is to use a polish and remove them. Washing the car between steps also helps, use a dedicated pad for each stage of abrasive. Glaze sucks IMO as it's only a temporary thing to get the car out and hide flaws that will eventually show up again. Perfect your finish with a fine polish and the results will stay. Also, if you stay away from the coarse compounds you won't have to fight with swirl marks. I've seen swirls so bad done by a person using 3M's Superduty and a wool pad that the surface needed to be sanded to remove them.
Alright, thank you. So, after using the G10, I created swirls. The G10 fills these, but doesnt remove these is my understanding? So, what would you guys recommend as Farecla's final polish before I glaze with G10? I am not super familiar with their product lines.
Thanks alot guys...I need to fix this :eek:
As Yoda says...
Other than that when doing ANYTHING that requires you to physically interact with the paint surface including waxing, sealers, glazes, washing, and drying the car that you move front to rear only - NOT in a circular pattern.
The reason I was taught this is simple, no matter what materials you use the end result is that you are micro-abrading the paint surface everytime you wash, wax, dry, buff etc.
Moving in front to rear patterns instead of circular reduces the lines you see after the wax starts to bleed off.
2 other things I always use which requires a little more elbow grease is Meguiars #16 paste wax (1x-2x a year max) with Meguiars #7 glaze in between -
when the surface starts to not bead water as well.
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