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Old 08-30-2010, 07:28 PM
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Wont crank

I converted my 86 Chevy pu from a 4.3v6/3-speed on the tree to a v8/automatic. The trouble is that it wont crank over unless I disconnect the pink wire going to the HEI.I also installed a Ford solenoid. I removed all the computer crap when I converted it. I had a 5 pin module v6 dizzy to a 4 pin module v8 dizzy. When I get it all sorted out,I will get rid of the module when I install a MSD ign.

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Old 08-30-2010, 09:30 PM
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Read over this link and see how your wiring of the solenoid compares to this. Methinks that your PINK wire isn't supplying a constant 12 V to the HEI and you should be using the ballast resistor bypass connection.

Go here: http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:58 PM
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I knew I put it somewhere and here it is, make sure you read #2.

THIS IS THE MODIFIED WIRING WITH THE FORD SOLENOID

If you are running an HEI distributor, don't worry about wiring to "i" terminals.

1. The wire that goes to the "s" terminal on the GM solenoid (closest to the block) is removed and wired to the "s" terminal on the Ford solenoid.

2. The wire that goes to the "i" terminal on the GM solenoid (farthest from the block) is removed and wired to the "i" terminal on the Ford solenoid. The "i" terminal on the GM solenoid will not be used. When you purchase the Ford solenoid, make sure that it has the "i" terminal if required for non-HEI distributors.

3. The battery cable is removed from the GM solenoid and is put on one of the large terminals on the Ford solenoid.

4. A battery cable is run from the other large terminal on the Ford solenoid to the large terminal on the GM solenoid.

5. Also on the large terminal on the GM solenoid, you have to add a heavy gauge (10 gauge) wire to the "s" terminal on the GM solenoid.

Now, this is what happens when you hit the start switch;

1. The electricity from the starter switch only has to energize the Ford solenoid (that is mounted in a relatively cool location).

2. The "battery" cable to the GM solenoid goes hot. The Ford "i" terminal also goes hot, providing non-ballast voltage to the coil.

3. The GM solenoid now gets a solid "high capacity" current supply and works the plunger and contacts. The internal contacts send voltage to the starter motor.

There are a few things that should be noted.

This set-up DOES NOT make the GM solenoid any cooler. It just gives it a better current supply. Anything that can be done to shield the starter from the header heat would be beneficial. There are several heat shields on the market and even GM makes one.

Always be sure that any wiring doesn't come in contact with the exhaust pipes and use heat socks, available from Jegs or Summit, just in case contact may occur.


or go to this link to read it all.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...rting_GM_motor
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:22 AM
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Thanks for the reply.I used the diagram from M.A.D. which is the same.All my wiring is right with the diagram.I have voltage to the diz with the key on.Why would it not crank unless it was unplugged? Im using the same coil,so I know its good.New cap and rotor. I'm using a Ford solenoid off of my other car that has'nt been running in about 3 yrs.Could the Ford solenoid be bad?
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyBoy
Thanks for the reply.I used the diagram from M.A.D. which is the same.All my wiring is right with the diagram.I have voltage to the diz with the key on.Why would it not crank unless it was unplugged? Im using the same coil,so I know its good.New cap and rotor. I'm using a Ford solenoid off of my other car that has'nt been running in about 3 yrs.Could the Ford solenoid be bad?
Timing is too far advanced causing hard cranking. When you remove the power to the distributor timing doesnt matter. Try backing the timing off a little
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:30 AM
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Thanks Chet.But....Its not hard cranking,it dont crank at all unless the diz is disconnected.The advance is set at 8* like I always do when I build a motor.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by TroyBoy
Thanks Chet.But....Its not hard cranking,it dont crank at all unless the diz is disconnected.The advance is set at 8* like I always do when I build a motor.
Makes no sense. Something has to be wired wrong somewhere. If you run a jumper from the + battery terminal to the HEI and try to crank it will it crank?

My guess is when you are putting the wire on teh distributor it is making a path for a relay to pull up and kill the start circuit.
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:46 PM
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I agree-It makes no sense at all.I havent had time today to try wiring the diz straight to the batt as you suggest.I had forgot you could do that. All I have done is to lengthen the wires that did go to the original solenoid by about 1 1/2 foot. Thats why this is such a pain in the butt,lol.It will be tomorrow before I can work on it again,thanks for the idea
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:52 PM
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Well guys....Hooked up Dist directly to batt-Still nothin! I'm still using the 3 on the tree steering column.I disconnected the clutch switch that would only let you start if it was in Reverse.I put a jumper in it and tried it out before I ever took the 4.3 out and it would start in any gear.I am at wits end trying to get this thing started because I need this for my daily driver
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Old 09-03-2010, 06:14 AM
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Okay....Got a brand new Ford solenoid.Engine cranks over like it supposed to. I have learned a valuable lesson-Don't re-use electrical parts even if they did work on your other car.I figure something corroded on the inside,its been sitting around for about 3 years.Thanks guys
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